Introduction: Indoor/Outdoor Hammock Stand
This instructable is on how to build a variable length indoor/outdoor hammock. I didn't take pictures throughout the process but the picture of the end result should give you a very good idea on how to do everything. The most important part is measuring your holes as it will make all the difference.
Note: I know the pictures are pretty bad. I'll get some better pictures ASAP. (done)
edit: In the picture with the upper hinge. I've added some 2x4 blocks. The issue was that the threaded rod was bending so you will need to either do what I have done (not very pretty) or use a 1/2 threaded rod for this part (or bigger). This hammock has been tested with 350lbs for over several weeks and seems to be rock solid. To be candid though the arms on each end flex up and down about 1/2 an inch when it swings. ( Personally I enjoy it... it's due to the metal bracing flexing a bit... if you don't want it to do this get a thicker metal brace.)
edit2: Also, the threaded eyehooks the hammock hooks on need to be screwed all the way in and have wood glue applied to them. This hammock is 4.5 feet tall at the ends and uses a 13ft hammock. The height is perfect for this hammock.
If you look at the picture the base could be very different. Casters would be a good idea if you are going to keep this inside or on cement. The base also doesn't need to be as wide as I have it. A single 4x4 should work . The legs could be vastly different also. Also, if you want to get treated wood you can but it's not necessary. You will be clear coating the wood afterwards.
What you will need.
1. 2 2x4x8 wood.
2. 2 4x4x6 // 1 4x4x8 ::: or 1 4x6x8 wood
3. 1 4x4x6 wood (for the legs)
4. 4 1/2 - 13x36 screw rods (zink)
5. 28 1/2 x 3x36 nuts/washers (zink)
6. 1 Crown Bolt 2 in. x 36 in. Flat Bar 3/16 in. Thick Plain Steel (thicker is better)
7. 1 Crown Bold 2 in x 36in. Flat Bar 1/18in Thick Plain Steel
8. 1 Crown Bold 1 in x 36in. Flat Bar 3/16in Thick Plain Steel (thicker is better)
9. 5 Cans of clearcoat
10. 80 grit/120 grid sand paper
11. 14 5/16 x 4in lag bolts
12. Wood Glue ( not necessary if you will be folding this up for storage )
13. A couple 3 1/2 inch wood screws (for the base.)
14. Casters (optional)
15. Hammock /hooks/chains
16. Eyebolts (large)
1.1/2 In titanium (cuts metal) Drill bit
2. 1/2 in Wood Drill bit (can use #1)
3. Hack Saw
4. Measuring Tape (roofing square is useful if you have one)
5. Electric sander (but if you need the exercise by all means do it by hand)
7. 5/16 socket and ratchet
8. If you have a vice it's VERY handy, this is a project that makes use of one extensively.
The idea with the hammock is to make it adjustable or fold-able for storage. Potentially you could make the arms much longer to reach higher for indoor hammocks or vice versa. The design is very simple though applicable to many different hammocks. To cut down on weight you could get rid of the outer 2 4x4's on the base.
The length of the arms is also up to the builder. Use Pythagoreums Theorum to find the length you need. r^2=Sqrt(a^2+b^2). Using this formula you could shrink or grow the entire project to your needs. You could shorten up the base and extend the arms or vice versa.
1.The threaded rod needs to be cut at 7.5 inches to go through the 4x4 and 2 2x4's. They should come out flush with 2 washers in place. The threaded rods through the base is your call. Measure for your base rods according to how wide you make it.
2.The threaded rods on the ends where the steel is attatched needs to be 8.5 inches. Allow for the extra steel that will be attatched.
3.The threaded eye-holes need to go all the way through the 4x4 and preferable abolted on the other end with a nut/washer. The one in the picture holds 200lbs fine but 400lbs will tear them out. ( I found out the hard way.)
4. Wood glue is stronger than you think. On the hammock in the picture the base is all glued while the upper pivot is not. I believe the lower pivot would be fine without glue.. however I don't know so go with your gut on how much weight it will be on it.
5. Cutting the holes for the lower pivot I went about 4 inches in. Where you see I used Lag bolts to screw the metal bracing into the arms and base you can use a threaded rod and bolt on each side. This will allow you to remove the metal brace and fold up the stand for storing.
6. You will have some metal left over. If you want to shave the bottoms of the lower pivot and put the metal crossbrace on the bottom that should work fine.
Any advice or questions are welcome. I'll do my best to answer them.