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Hi

I found some plywood sheets from my workplace wood dumpster.

Those we're in good condition, so i decided to re-use them as a part of the "industrial style" slide door.

Other materials we're bought or found from a shop.

Video shows the process.

Material:

2" x 4" 8 meters.

Plywood 2 pcs. 8 x 800 x 1000mm

5 x 30mm flatbar 2000m to slide rail.

5 x 60mm flatbar 2 pcs. 250mm long for roller arms.

4 x 20mm flatbar 8 psc 100mm long for slide rail holder hooks.

Screws, nuts and bolts, washers.

"rollers" I used ones with 50mm diameter, with 8mm center hole. Those we're bought from the hw-store sailing section. Costed 5€ (dollars) each.

2mm mild steel sheet for the corners. 8 pieces 150mm x 150mm

Tools: (What i used)

Drill and drill bits. 8mm, 4mm

Circular saw

Miter saw

Angle grinder ( 1mm cut off wheel, 40 grit flap disk)

Chop saw


Step 1: Frame..

I started the making process with cutting the 2" x 4".

I wanted to make door with size 200cm x 90 cm, i cut the pieces 10cm longer, as a working allowance.

I used circular saw to make grooves to the 2" x 4", i made groove 25mm deep and 8mm wide. ( can be made with table saw too)

Plywood will be sunked to that groove.

Then i made miters, and cut the pieces to the right size.

Step 2: Continued...

Continued by cutting plywood to the right size.

Installed them inside the frame, and connected parts together with screws.

Applied layer of acrylic filler to the joints and knots.

Didn't use glue at all, because i want to get door looking "old". When there's no glue joints move and the filler cracks.

I think it looks neat after while. My intention is to apply some dark wax to the cracks after couple weeks, to get cracks more visible. (i'll update this instructable then)

Painted with matte white paint.

Step 3: Corner Brackets..

To the corner brackets i cut 8 pieces 150x 150x 2mm mild steel.

Drilled holes for screws with 4mm drill, and for the center one for the decoration with 32mm drill.

Then i cut the pieces to desired shape with angle grinder using 1mm thick cut off wheel.

Bend the parts with my diy bending brake.

You can see it here:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Sheet-Metal-Plast...

Attached the corner brackets with screws, and finished the door by sanding paint smooth and "worn".

Step 4: Hardware..

I made slide rail from 5 x 30mm flat bar. Lenght 2 meters.

I drilled 8 pieces of 6mm holes to it for the hooks that connects rail to the wall.

Roller arms are made from 5 x 60mm flat bar 2 pieces 250mm long. Two 8mm holes for connecting arms to the door. One for the roller.

8 hooks, Two 4mm holes for attaching hooks to the wall, one to connect it to slide rail.

I drilled holes for the longer pieces, i like its easier to handle workpieces that way, small pieces are difficult to clamp.

After drilling i cut pieces with chop saw.

Step 5: Bending..

Then i bend the hooks.

Simple "fishook" shape.

Roller arms are bend so that the roller comes to the center of the door, then door stays balanced and moves easily.

Made the arms by fit and shape method, without counting angles etc..

Step 6: Finished..

Rollers are attached to the arms with 8mm bolts, nylock nuts and washers.

After installing the rail to the wall, door is just lift to its place.

<p>On my wayyyy too long list. Great job IMHO. About the rollers, here is someone who adapted skateboard wheels:</p><p>https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-sliding-barn-doors-using-skateboard-wheels/</p>
<p>Congrats !!! </p><p>but I have to say you went the hard way :-) </p><p>but I know you've done it with and for pleasure</p><p>you can buy this sliding door kits,the rail and a prefabricated door and just fit it :-) I've recently done two sliding doors with these kits and it was pretty straightforward. </p><p>Regards from the Azores islands (Portugal) </p>
<p>Thanks sousap. Can you share a link of where you get the above mentioned kits? Thanks in advance!</p>
<p>this is a portugu&ecirc;se brand <a href="http://www.apc.com.pt/catalogo/sistemas-de-correr" rel="nofollow">APC </a></p><p>I used the 4000 or 4500 or 5000 series, can't remembre now</p><p>details here page <a href="http://www.apc.com.pt/upload/filemanager/catalogo/2014-2015/Catalog_APC_2015-2016_compressed.pdf" rel="nofollow">188 </a></p>
<p>You can get them at Home Depot, or here's an Amazon link.<br><a href="http://amzn.to/2nqd7LJ">http://amzn.to/2nqd7LJ</a><br><br>Pricey for what they are, IMHO...</p>
<p>our local menards.com and probably homedepot.com have hanging door kits.</p>
You can get the hardware by piece that's intended for barns and out-buildings, or as a kit for interior use. From what I've seen the interior kits are much more expensive, have more design constraints, and are less robust.
He started by finding a couple pieces of scrap ply and wanted to find a use for them. That's how a lot of my best projects start! With the steel, rollers, and 2x4's, he probably spent less than 20 dollars on this, maybe 1/3 of what just a roller/hanger kit costs.
You are absolutely right. I bought things with 20$, everything else i allready had.
There was no kind of rails i wanted, and making them was quick and easy task. I decided it was better option for me.
<p>But this is Instructables! :D</p>
<p>Impressive metal working - the 'store bought' hardware for these doors is not cheep!</p><p>Would suggest a router and a (correct size) router bit if you decide to do another - it looked cold out there! ;) Also, using a router to relieve the area where your corner braces were fastened would allow those bits to be set flush with the door surface.</p><p>One suggestion - a valance - to cover the fancy iron work and keep the dust/dirt off the mechanism.</p><p>Another thought - rout mortises to accept the vertical hardware bits and use Cap Nuts and matching bolts with heads recessed flush to the door surface on either side of the door.</p>
Thank you. Winters are somewhat cold, but that makes summer feel better. :) Thanks for your tips. I have planned to buy decent router, haven't find good model or brand so far. I had one from the bosch, that supposed to be great but didn't last long. So i returned it.
I have 2 porter cable 690 routers,1 3/4 hp. Easily thirty years old - well, one of them is about ten years younger.<br><br>I am NOT a 'pro' woodworker by any means, but have used one or both of them to build everything from raised panel kitchen cabinets to a fastener free deck railing.<br><br>I use one in a home made table (actually built-in) to a bench) using the newer model fixed base that uses a flip to tighten lever as opposed to the older model that used a thumb bolt.<br><br>I do not love the Plunge base at all. But, then, It is the only plunge-base I ever tried in my shop. I do not like the way the motor is secured into the plunge base.<br><br>Cannot say any of the others I've looked at in the stores offer a better plunge base in this regard - but never got to take one home to see for myself.<br><br>I am looking at a Trident model that allows for adjusting the bit height from above the table - maybe for Christmas as I hate spending $300 to get a third router! Also, look to https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/webspec.html for accessories and bits and router tables !!
<p>I made a similar door using plywood and hangers but rather than a rail I used a long piece of uni-strut channel. rollers ran true and were protected from dust, much as another fellow stated a valance would.</p>
Nice job but last I looked America uses imperial units. So please stop using metric. It sux!
<p>Congress passed the Metric Conversion Act of <em>1975</em> &quot;to <br>coordinate and plan the increasing use of the metric system in the <br>United States&quot;. Metric is the official US measurment system. However, <br>Detroit refused to comply even though they had to retool their assembly<br> lines every 2-3 years.<br></p><p>The United States is one of only three countries, as of 2016, with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myanmar" rel="nofollow">Myanmar</a> (Burma) and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liberia" rel="nofollow">Liberia</a>,<br> that have not adopted, or are not in the process of adopting, the <br>metric system as their official system of weights and measures.</p>
Last time I looked, the &quot;www&quot; that the web address for this page begins with means &quot;world wide web.&quot;<br> Instructables isn't just for Americans.
American has been going metric for a very long time. See below <br>https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metrication_in_the_United_States<br><br>Many of us American's can spell the word, some of Us have both sets of hand tools.<br><br>Our schools are S L O W as we gear down to slowest student in the classrooms.<br><br>I'm over 60 years old, in my life time the schools has reinvented how to count to 10 three times ☹️<br><br>244 Jake<br>
:D Im from the metric side of the globe.
<p>Super Instructable. This is the reason why we don't have to buy prefab crap from stores! WTG!</p>
Thank you!
Indeed!
Nicely done Tuomas. You used a lot of skills. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for checking it out.
<p>Amazing work man. The only thing I would say is that it's not realistic for the average Joe. You've got like every tool known to man in your garage lol! Thanks for sharing!</p>
Yep. But all those tools ain't necessary. I made three projects at the same time, so i used some tools just because i allready had it in my hand. But, having tools really makes things much easier.
All you really need is a way to cut 90 and 45-degree angles in wood and a drill. You can buy steel in the lengths you need or cut it with a hacksaw, and use glue to hold the door together instead of the custom made corner braces. A vice and a hammer bends the hanger steel pieces just fine, or can modify the design not to need the hangers to be bent.
<p>True. True. :) </p>
<p>Amazing dude... what a maker want is to build not to buy...</p>
Thank you. You're right with that.
Nice build!<br>I often start projects with a piece of wood or steel and find a use for it. I build with reclaimed hardwood from an old barn and steel from a salvage company. Saves me a lot of money so I can buy nice tools :-)
<p>Nice job! Those used to be called sliding barn doors but now they're showing up in house interiors. Your DIY saves quite a bit of money but you can buy a kit or completed mechanism. People can use different hardware as well! Here's an example from a Google image search that uses an old door. </p>
<p>Jood job. Very nicely done, especially the metal works. Alse very good recording of all the steps.</p><p>I do have a concern: Be carefull the door doesn't come crashing down when kids are playing with it. If the rollers ever get pushed of the rail.</p><p>Also, dont you need some sort of handle to easily open the door?</p><p>Greetings</p>
Thanks. We don't have small kids, but i think i will add stoppers to it so that doesn't fall of. Im working on with the &quot;industrial&quot; handles, i make own instructable for them.
<p>The bolts seem like a nice idea, adding to the Industrial look. It wont prevent the door from falling off when it's pushed sideways and then lifted a bit though, but it will already be a lot safer!</p><p>That way the door wont jump off the rail if you slam it open or close too hard.</p><p>I'm curious about the handles now ;)</p>
<p>It would be easy to screw a pair of small wood blocks to the top of the door so that with the blocks hit the bottom of the rail, limiting vertical travel. If attached at one corner with a single screw, they could be pivoted out of the way if you have to remove the door.</p><p>It is also a good idea to put 'bumpers' on the face of the door that is next to the wall when door is open. This will keep the door from scraping the wall while opening and closing it.</p>
I think im going to make threaded holes for those &quot;roller arms&quot; so that i can install bolts under the rail. That should prevent it from falling.
<p>Very impressive! :)</p>
Thamk you!

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Bio: Just a fellow who want's to learn new tricks and skills.
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