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Industrial looking Audio Video Equipment Shelves

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Picture of Industrial looking Audio Video Equipment Shelves
After building the Media Shelves, I wanted something that would match it and hold my Audio Video equipment.  As a couple of the components run pretty hot I wanted something that would offer more open space than normal.  And again wanted something that would be fairly easy to make.  Based on that I came up with the design you see below.

These offer open space on all sides of the equipment (dodging the red ring of death on my xbox 360).  The Onkyo receiver is also known to run hot.  I have had these up for over a year now, and have had no heat related issues with any of the equipment.

The basic idea is to have a single hook that attaches to a stud with two steel cables that come down and attach to the two horizontal pieces of wood.  While one vertical piece is attached to the stud as well and holds the other side of the horizontal pieces.

These directions are going to closely match what was done with the Media Shelves, so if anything doesn't make sense take a look at that instructable.

Check out my other industrial shelves for a complete set: Media Shelves and TV Ledge

 
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Step 1: Tools and Materials

I did this instructable without the table saw (compared to the media shelves).  I used a jigsaw.  I should have used some kind of straight edge or jig, but I didn't and it shows if you look down on it, but it isn't really noticeable when its hanging on the wall.  I also did not use the dowel rod kit, and just made all the holes with eying up the drill.

Tools:
Pencil
Ruler
Tape Measure
Miter Saw (This could be replaced with a hand saw easily)
Drill
Nice Sharp 3/8" drill bit
Jigsaw +blade
3/32" counter sink drill bit (for screw pilot hole drilling)
Bar Clamps
Palm Sander (I love this sander for how easy it is to install the paper taut)
Heavy Duty Wire Cutters
Crimper (looks like bolt cutters, but instead of cutting, they crimp)

Materials:
Paper (for design and sketching)
1"x4"x6' Pine (with or without knots, up to you, or any other wood for that matter)
1 5/8" Drywall Screws
2 1/2" Drywall Screws
150 Grit Sand Paper
Stain
Rags
about 11' of 3/32" steel cable
2 splicing fasteners for the steel cable
6 stopper fasteners for the steel cable
Heavy Duty Steel Hooks
Masking Tape

Step 2: Design and Sketchs

Picture of Design and Sketchs
detail.jpg
triangle.jpg
Tools:
Pencil
Ruler
High School Math... that I need to look up on the internet now.

Materials:
Paper
Eraser

First thing I always do is sit down and draw things out till I get something that makes sense, then I refine it and create more detailed drawings where needed.

Here are my refined drawings.  The first image is the overall sketch.  In this it shows two selves, but I built three (just duplicate the dimensions from the second shelf).  This gave me the basic dimensions that I could build from.  The idea is that the weight will be carried by the steel cable and vertical board both of which are attached to the stud.  While the horizontal boards hold the equipment.

VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure that the hook and vertical boards are attached to a stud!  Doubtful it will stay up otherwise.

I put the hook 24" up from the first shelf so the steel cable would not be in the way of the component.  The shelves are 16" wide so you can put two or more of them side by side and each be going into a stud (assuming that your studs are 16" on center like mine).

Next image is the board details.  Where I wanted to put the holes and cuts with measurements.  A 3/8" wide by 3/8" deep hole cut into the boards at the center (1 3/4") 7/8" in from the end of each of the horizontal boards.  A groove is cut that is 15/16" long.  This groove allows the cable to slide in and then rest the stopper fastener in the 3/8" hole.

On the other side is the counter sunk screw holes that will attach the board to the vertical board.

Last image is me calculating where to put the stopper fasteners on the steel cable.  A squared + B squared = C squared.  I had two triangles to figure out for this one, since the hook is not directly above the point it enters the boards.  I made a calculation mistake on the drawing below (see notes).  Final measurement to put the first stopper is 30 1/2"

Step 3: Cutting all the shelf pieces

Picture of Cutting all the shelf pieces
Tools:
Pencil
Tape Measure
Miter Saw (This could be replaced with a hand saw easily)

Materials:
1"x4"x6' Pine (with or without knots, up to you, or any other wood for that matter)

The shelves are made from three pieces of wood.  The vertical piece that attaches to the wall, and the two horizontal pieces that attach to the vertical piece and stick out then have the steel cable fit into.

Per shelf you have 2 pieces at 19" and 1 at 16"

Step 4: Holes, Grooves, and Screws

Picture of Holes, Grooves, and Screws
IMG_4510.JPG
Tools:
Pencil
Tape Measure
Drill
Nice Sharp 3/8" drill bit
Jigsaw +blade
3/32" counter sink drill bit (for screw pilot hole drilling)
Bar Clamps

Materials:
1 5/8" Drywall Screws
Masking Tape

I tried doing the holes by hand this time.  Following the drawings, I took the 3/8" drill bit and used masking tape to create a stopper on the bit about 3/8" from the tip.  Then I measured in 1 3/4" from the edge and 7/8" from the end and drilled the hole.

Next I used the jigsaw to cut the 15/16" long grove.  This worked ok, not very straight, but got the job done.  Would have been better if it was jigged.

Next I drilled counter sunk pilot holes on the vertical board where it will mount to the wall.

Last I clamped the horizontal board to the vertical board and drilled my counter sunk pilot holes.


Step 5: Sand and Stain

Picture of Sand and Stain
Tools:
Palm Sander (I love this sander for how easy it is to install the paper taut)

Materials:
150 Grit Sand Paper
Stain
Rags

I took it all apart then just sand it down to the smoothness you want.  I pay special attention to the ends of the boards so they won't soak up as much stain, keeping them lighter like the rest of the board.  Sanding is probably the longest step.

Then just rag on the stain and wipe off excess.  Let dry.

Step 6: Steel cables

Picture of Steel cables
IMG_6747.JPG
IMG_4554.JPG
Tools:
Pencil
Tape Measure
Level
Heavy Duty Wire Cutters
Crimper (looks like bolt cutters, but instead of cutting, they crimp)

Materials:
about 11' of 3/32" steel cable
2 splicing fasteners for the steel cable
6 stopper fasteners for the steel cable
Heavy Duty Steel Hooks
Masking Tape

While you are waiting for the shelves to dry you can start working on the steel cables.

I don't have any pictures of this step since I did it a different way (which was much less effective).  So I will just include pictures from the Media Shelves so you get the idea.

First put a hook at least 6' up on the wall installed upside down (this will keep the wires at the same starting point.  Next mark a line at each place you want a stopper.  From my diagram, I want the first stopper at 30 1/2" then every 16" after that.

Next use the splicing fasteners to create a loop on the cable and crimp.  Hang the wire then cut off after the last line you drew (leave a little extra so you have some wire to attach the last stopper).  Repeat for the other wire.

Next I used masking tape above and below the stoppers to hold them in place so they would be easier to crimp.  This way you can take down the wire and crimp, and not have to worry about lining stuff up.

Crimp all the stoppers then remove the tape.  I noticed that the crimper's 3/32" slot was much too small, so I just used the end of the crimper to do everything.

Step 7: Installation

Picture of Installation
IMG_4556.JPG
IMG_4557.JPG
Tools:
Drill
Level
Ladder if needed
Screw driver

Materials:
Heavy Duty Hook

Start by finding the stud to screw hooks into.  Install hooks, use a screw driver to help turn the hooks.

VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure that the hooks are attached to a stud or top plate!  Doubtful it will stay up otherwise.

Us a level and come down 24 3/4" from the hook and make a mark.  Install first shelf with top of vertical board touching this mark. (3/4" is the offset for the thickness of the horizontal board.)  Then come down 16" from top or first shelf's vertical board and make a mark.  Install next shelf with top of vertical board touching this mark.  Repeat for number of shelves.

Hang the 2 steel cables and install onto boards by sliding the cable through the groove and setting the stopper onto the 3/8" holes.

Put stuff on shelves... and your done.
bethmwl5 years ago
Love the cable routing pipe. Creates a nice clean look
berky935 years ago
looks nice. but I could see the boards accidentally moving apart a tiny bit at the ends and that xbox falling on the ground...maybe some bracing in the front would be a good idea, or a third piece of wire spanning the gap between each board.
craineum (author)  berky935 years ago
The bracing on the wall and the screws into the board beneath are more than adequate.  These have been up for over a year now and they haven't moved at all.  Even with my young ones grabbing onto them from time to time.

Hmmm.... maybe if someone were to fall into them, but most anything would not hold well up against that.

Either way, you could easily add bracing to the front, I wouldn't use wire because you only get bracing in one direction.  Just add a piece of board to the front.