Instructables

Inexpensive Seed Starter

Featured
Picture of Inexpensive Seed Starter
mainpage2.jpg
Over the past few years the family has started seeds for our garden. We have tried a few different enclosures from store bought, to floating the starting tray in our fish tank. (it works if you don't sink the tray with the filter)  The biggest hurdles were light and temperature. Our house has a programmable thermostat and in front of the door wall is the sunniest but not the warmest.

So last year after killing off the first set of seeds, I made a seed starting box, with lights, air flow, and heat (from the lights). The plants thrived.

Here is how its made...
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Materials

Picture of Materials
materials2.jpg
1 Sterlite clear plastic container.
3 temporary bulb holders (home depot rubber coated) UPC # 0 78477 83939 1
3 CFL 13w light bulbs (do not use other types the heat would create a dangerous situation)
2 wire nuts
1 cord end (I got this one off a dead microwave) a short extension cord work well also
3 band ties
emergency blanket
double sided tape
piece of bubble wrap the size of the bottom of the container

drill
hole saw (the size of the bulb holders) 1 1/2"
Wire strippers
scissors


Step 2: Drill light holder holes

Picture of Drill light holder holes
Lets get started

A few words of caution:

If you are not comfortable with electrical wiring, please consult an electrician. You use this instructable at your own risk. Wiring lights is not difficult however if done wrong can be dangerous. Using standard incandescent / or halogen light bulbs will over heat the starter and could be dangerous

Chuck in your hole saw (1 1/2") in the drill and drill 3 holes in the lid of the bin. The holes have to be close enough together that the wire ends of the sockets touch with enough slack to connect the cord.
1-40 of 48Next »
Akin Yildiz15 days ago

you have to check this out sir... the life seeder .!

FDUK7C4HXDEBM0X.jpg01.jpg
Rather than use foil to reflect light I have read that flat white paint actually reflects more light. I use sticks to anything , as listed on label , and it works fine . Spray for plastic if you can get it in flat would make short work. Foil may be quick and cheapest.. Look for lights in daylight range up in 5700-6500 K temp range(blue) as listed on package.
From What I have read the lumens are about the same, it is the wave length that makes a difference between florescent and incandescent for plants. Anyway why so many nit pickers on this pretty straight forward project?
You wrote, "Wrapping these connections with tape will give a bit of added protection".

You should have said, "electrical tape" to prevent someone from using celophane (Scotch) tape, duct tape, masking tape, whatever.
You know, its not nice to correct every single thing someone writes!
No, i thing it's a perfectly valid concern. It is updated now, but many people don't know that much about electronics. They might just use masking tape and possibly start a fire, as well as weakening the connection.
I am sorry you do not want people to be safe.
lidsdad (author)  AtlantaTerry1 year ago
Good point, I updated it on step 3.
Why not cover the bottom side of the lid with aluminum foil? The blue plastic is not going to reflect much light.

I would be worried about the very delicate CFL bulbs breaking. Then when one does your seedlings will be contaminated with mercury and you will have to dispose everything. Instead, why not use strings of LED lights (sometimes called Rope Lights). Or strings of white LED lights sold at Christmas time. Yes, a LED puts out less light, but I wonder if the total quantity of the LED lights will add up to be enough illumination. Also they are not as hot so cooling is less of an issue.

This past winter I I put a heating pad under my large tub. I did not have any cooling holes. An inexpensive thermometer I had inside indicated a temperature over 85*F.

Atop the very warm tub I placed several clear $1.25 Home Depot "shoebox" containers that held my small starter pots. Inside the temperature of them was 75*F.
lidsdad (author)  AtlantaTerry1 year ago
Good idea on the double tubs. I thought about the foil, I just didn't want any conductive material on the lid.

My starter 2 years ago was an off the shelf small dome that I floated on the top of my fish tank and lifted the light. The water heater kept the tank at 75 and the added moisture keep watering down. Worked great till it migrated under the filter spillway...
buteman1 year ago
In the u.k Brown is Live, blue is Neutral and green/yellow is Earth.
lidsdad (author)  buteman1 year ago
Didn't know that, I think I will add it to the instructable. Thanks for the info.
Another word for 'seed starter' could be 'germinating station', but this is great! Definitely gonna string one up! Thanks :)
Germination station. For the vegetation nation.
Mother of God...
lidsdad (author)  fatchumba6671 year ago
I am not sure if I can add "germinating station" to the key words without republishing, but would like too.
spin4981 year ago
Marr nuts are great for a static connection, ie; in a wall or ceiling, since your application involves a lot of movement, I'd recommend backing the Marr nuts off after the initial connection and melting some solder through the threads, then reinstall. I'd further secure with electrical tape. Call me paranoid about electricity.
You wrote, "Use starter soil and clean all your pots from last year."

You should have said to clean with diluted bleach.
lidsdad (author) 1 year ago
I added a step showing the cord wiring. I hope this helps.
windexblue1 year ago
Like one of the other commenters, I also need a little more detail on Step 3. I've replaced light sockets a couple of times, but only using super-specific instructions. How does the extension cord/dead cord end get connected? Are you stripping the casing and wrapping it with the black pigtails?
lidsdad (author)  windexblue1 year ago
Using an electrical cord:
Cut off the female end of the cord, strip back the insulation 6". This will reveal 3 wires (assuming you used a cord with a ground) black, white, and green.
Strip back 1" of insulation from the black and white wires for the cord.
Strip back 1" of insulation from the temporary bulb holder black and white wires.
Twist all the black together.
Twist all the white together.
Trim back the copper wire to 1/2 to 3/4".
Twist on a wire nut clockwise to each set of wire.
mainah lidsdad1 year ago
I hope that you are referring to connecting the ground wires as well. That ground could save your life. 110 volts can stop your heart.
lidsdad (author)  mainah1 year ago
Temporary bulb holders don't have grounds and since the bin is plastic there is nothing to connect the ground too. They are a lot like plastic keyless bulb holders (single light bulb fixtures) they do not contain grounds either. If you look at your breaker panel the ground and the common (white) run to the same bus bar. This is why I suggest using a GFI circuit to plug this into.
kpearce1 year ago
Warmth causes the seeds to germinate. You could simply use a heating pad until you see the cotyledons, then use the lights to aid in photosynthesis. I've found that with some toilet paper tubes, germination isn't possible (probably because of acids in the paper or ""glue) . I have my students take a single newspaper page, torn in half at the fold, then folded in half, and fold around the toilet paper tubes and run their hands over it several times to make it hold the shape of the tube. Then place them all in the container, fill with damp soil, tamp down, seed and cover with more soil. Don't forget to leave your seedlings outside for a week before planting! This "hardens" the seedlings.
mainah kpearce1 year ago
kpearce, make the newspaper about 2 inches longer than a soup can with both ends cut out. moisten the paper and wrap it 2 or 3times around the can and tuck the leftover up into the can. Turn the can over on a hard surface and mash the tucked up paper down to make a bottom. Fill with good quality potting soil (not dirt) and plant away. When you get ready to plant, make sure the paper is really moist and plant the whole thing. The roots will push their way out and Voila'!! Good luck with your garden this year.
jungfong1 year ago
Way cool. I think I'll build one tomorrow. Many thinks
ClareBS1 year ago
The reason for using certified seed potatoes is that potatoes are susceptible to hundreds of diseases (search for potato diseases, look at the Wikipedia list). I guess if you are just planting a few in a bucket or tires it wouldn't matter if you planted sprouters from your kitchen, but if you want a crop of good potatoes, buy your seed potatoes. They are often on sale.
daytona6751 year ago
However, many seeds also need light to germinate (check your seed packet) and therefore this instructible is perfect for them
gingerely1 year ago
Love the use of plastic bins. I use them to grow sweet potatoes in Zone 2b. The soil stays warm (I use dark green bins), I can check the water consumption easily and the critters don't gnaw on the little sweeties!
I don't get alot and they aren't huge (actually they are baby-sized vegs - think 'baby' carrots or 'new' potatoes), but are they ever nice! We eat them peels and all, they are that tender! One bin 2+ft by 1.5 ft and about 1.5 ft high gives us about 3 or so pounds of baby sweeties. Easy harvesting, too!
lidsdad (author)  gingerely1 year ago
A friend of mine told me about doing potatoes in a couple of dirt filled stacked tires. What so you use to "seed" the potatoes I would love to try it this year with a bin (tires just don't seem healthy)
You can use tires that have been sitting for several years - they will have outgassed & are safe for growing food plants. All that's left is the rubber.
Either buy "seed potatoes" at a garden shop, or (free!) use a potato or three from your own kitchen that's started to "sprout". You can cut up a sprouting spud: each "eye" that's got a sprout in it will grow a separate potato plant. If you don't have any spuds that are sprouting already, just wait a week or two... :-)
lidsdad (author)  AmyCat591 year ago
I'm good with free version, and may even have some sprouting.
bwater1 year ago
I've never gotten even close to working with electrical stuff. How does the old extension cord attach with the nuts?
lidsdad (author)  bwater1 year ago
I have had a few people ask about this. Here are the instructions. Be careful any exposed wire could be a risk. Also plugging the completed seed starter into a GFI plug is recommended.

Using an electrical cord:
Cut off the female end of the cord, strip back the insulation 6". This will reveal 3 wires (assuming you used a cord with a ground) black, white, and green.
Strip back 1" of insulation from the black and white wires for the cord.
Strip back 1" of insulation from the temporary bulb holder black and white wires.
Twist all the black together.
Twist all the white together.
Trim back the copper wire to 1/2 to 3/4".
Twist on a wire nut clockwise to each set of wire.
lidsdad (author)  lidsdad1 year ago
Here is a pic of how the wires should look to wire nut. With this instructable you will be using red wire nuts and wiring together a total of 4 wires (3 from the temporary bulb holders and 1 from the cord)
wire-nut.jpg
lidsdad (author) 1 year ago
Thanks for all the views and comments....
afardella1 year ago
Great... I'd add a computer blower (12 volts) for airflow... :)
lidsdad (author)  afardella1 year ago
good idea if you build it send me a pic.
ac-dc1 year ago
This is not entirely safe. Wire nuts are never supposed to be used as a link between two wires that are outside of a chassis, not mechanically fixed in place and by that I mean using standard electrical components. Don't let your insurance company find out about this, and ideally, re-do it!

Also, those are not 60W CFL bulbs, they are around 13W CFL blubs that claim they are the equivalent of 60W incandescent bulbs. It makes a big difference, 3 x 13W CFL bulbs are barely enough light and will cause the plants to get leggy, though at least the emergency blanket helps to reduce light loss.

Might I suggest it be done the opposite way? Build it with the container upside down so the sprouts sit in the lid as a tray. This way when you lift the box off you have better access to the pots for watering, removal, rotation, etc., although some plastic storage box lids are better for this than others.

Lastly it's not very important to first wash out pots that you used last year, just leave them sitting dry before reuse. Anything that might grow in there due to the environment, will just grow again anyway since it's the same environment.

Something else I would add is an electrical outlet timer so the lights come on and go off automatically every day. As for temperature, try to keep it around 80F to 85F for most things but around 75F initially and only 70F after sprouting for herbs that bolt fast in warmer temperatures.
1-40 of 48Next »