Recently, I needed 90 degree bends in aluminum stock to create brackets for a project I have going. I grabbed $25, ran to Home Depot and after a few hours created my own metal bending tool. Quick, dirty, simple and cheap.
A Few Quick Notes:
The symbol " denotes inches.
Quantities come before descriptions of materials and are followed by an "x".
Images will be referred to in steps based on the numerical order they are placed within that step.
I used button head machine screws but in retrospect, it would be better to use flat head screws and countersink them.
Everything you need can easily be purchased at Home Depot or similar.
Materials:
1) 1x 2" width by 1/8" thick flat steel stock
(I bought 36" of this for $6.97)
2) 1x 6" lengths of 1" Steel L bracket
(I bought 36" of this for $6.47)
3) 9x #8-32 x 3/8" machine screws (preferably flat head)
(I bought a box of 100 button heads for $5.80)
4) 2x #8-32 x 1" machine screws
(I bought a 4 pack for $1.18)
5) 2x #8-32 wing-nuts
(I bought a 6 pack for $1.18)
6) 9x #8 Lock washers
(I bought a 30 pack for $1.18)
7) 10x #8-32 hex nuts
(I bought a 100 pack for $3.92)
8) 2x 1/2" hinges
(I bought a 2 pack of 1.5" loose pin zinc hinges for $2.27)
This all adds up to just under $29 but if you skip the 100 and 30 packs of screws and washers and just get what you need, you should be able to get it down to $25.
Tools:
1) Metal saw
(I got by with a hacksaw with a metal cutting blade)
2) Power Drill
3) 5/32" drill bit for metal
(just big enough diameter to get a #8 screw through with a little coaxing from a screwdriver)
4) 5/16" drill bit for metal
(not a must have but useful for cleaning up the edges on the smaller holes you drill)
5) Screwdriver
(whichever type that corresponds to the machine screws you buy)
6) Pliers
(For holding nuts while you tighten machine screws)
Cost: < $25 (not including tools)
Time: ~2 hours
Drink: Coffee.
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Twitter: @ImagineN4tion
Blog: http://imaginen4tion.blogspot.com/
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Signing UpStep 1: Cut Metal to Length
1) 4x 6" lengths of steel L bracket (see image 1).
2) 1x 6" length of steel flat stock (see image 2).
I cut these lengths the hard way using my hacksaw with a metal cutting blade attached. If you do not have any way of cutting metal you can pick up a hacksaw for cheap and get by. If you have a chop saw or band saw you can get through this stuff with, even better.
Note: Disregard the holes in the metal on the images on this step. We will take care of those in the next step.







































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i use actual power presses what do same thing but on mutch larger scale for my job, if you want i can give you mathmatical formulas for working out all your bend area and your bend radiouse, also useful for geting your leg lengths corect size
What was the gauge metal can you bend up to?
Short useful answer: The only metal I have bent is 1/8" aluminum and I have not tested it with anything else. Naturally, it will depend on the metal you are trying to bend and the cross sectional area of it.
Long useless answer: I worked out on paper the thickest aluminum stock you could bend assuming you were trying to bend a 1" wide piece and could impart 50lb force on the lever arm. However, considering I found yield strengths for aluminum everywhere from 35MPa up to 414MPa and was unsure which is actually correct for the standard aluminum (which I think is annealed 6061 Aluminum) that we are using the numbers were pretty useless...
If you are worried about not getting enough force I would suggest following some of the suggestions in the comments here and placing longer handles on the tool, slotting the flat plat to accommodate different thicknesses, and perhaps anchoring the tool to a bench.
If you make your own rendition be sure to share some pics here :)
If you used larger sized angle-bar for the fixed back jaw, the wingnuts could be set further back and allow bends greater than 90degress.
Using angle-bar the same size as the flat-bar use for clamping, the wingnuts could be set twice as far back.
A second "stabilising/trailing arm" on the back of the fixed jaw would also make the whole thing more stable.
1) Find another way to hinge the two pieces anywhere but over where you're bending the part would allow for a cleaner, near right angle bend, and a smaller radius for the bend will allow you to make an even more compact, right angle bend. You could accomplish that by being able to change the thickness of the hold-down plate.
2) Bench mounting the tool and as mentioned above, attaching a longer handle would allow you to bend heavier gauge metal.
1. rarely accurate;
2. brutal ;
3. hard to avoid damaging the material.
Was considering this, but now I'll be making my own.
I'm gonna make thi device as soon as possible
You should mention that when drilling metal bar, ALWAYS use some kind of lubricant. Tapping fluid is the best (available at any hardware or auto parts store, or Google it), but any oil will help. The oil pulls the heat away from the bit, allowing it to cut faster, and prevents dulling the drill bit.
When drilling aluminum, using a fluid for tapping aluminum will prevent the sticky aluminum from welding itself to the bit.
I use 'AlumTap' and 'Mystic Metal Mover' I googled off the net (for no other reason than I liked the names.) :)
http://www.nicepapertoys.com/profiles/blogs/bender-s-back
I realise you only needed 90 degree bends however I sometimes need a more acute angle for some of the brackets I need to make up. I would suggest one thing for consideration ... what about if you made the bench piece that you have the wing-nuts on, a little bigger than the part you use to actually do the bend ... so that the piece you are holding in your hand can actually fit between the wing-nuts... that way you could actually get a bend of less than 90 degrees. (I.e. you bend past 90 degrees for the acute angle I sometimes need.
Nice job though.
In fact, to get more acute angles with this brake I might just notch out holes for the wing-nuts to slip into. If so, I will post that mod. Thanks for spurring thoughts :)
Keep up the good work
Dan