Picture of Inflatable Sailboat
One day I wanted to build an inflatable sailboat but I had no money, so I tried a cheap solution, I used PVC pipe.

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Step 1: Materials

An inflatable boat, I used a Intex Seahawk 300 inflatable boat bad either will work, just adjust the measurements and fittings.

Frame and rudder

3m PVC pipe 40mm Brown
6m PVC pipe 32mm Brown
2 elbows 40mm
1 T 40mm
2 T 40mm/32mm
2 elbows 32mm
2 connections threadable 32mm
4-bladed paddle plastic


2.5 m aluminum tube of 1 3 / 4 "
2 x 3m aluminum tube of 3 / 4 "
6.5 m ripstop nylon 250 or a 3 x 4m polytarp
sewing nylon line
A ring of 1 1 / 2 "internal diameter (metal, wood or reinforced plastic)
4 stainless steel clamps 3 / 4 "


10m of 6mm rope
expandable polyurethane
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lucek1 year ago

Finally got to this today. Haven't made the sail yet nor the rudder assembly but the mast is up. For note I built the rig the way I did because I had most of the fittings and it save me PVC pipe.With any Luck I can see this in the water in a week or 2.

lucek lucek1 year ago

Update: Just about finished. Got a temp sail made out of some cheep PVC and an old poly tarp.

14 - 1.jpg
lucek lucek1 month ago

New polytarp sail new rudder and broken rig. Apparently the old PVC didn't bond well at one joint and the weld broke.

Hola, muy buena solucion.!

Estoy evaluando en mi caso entre perfileria de aluminio como "sailtogo", aunque un poco mas costosa pero transportable por avion, o con caños de pvc, aunque sea la parte estructural nada mas.

En tu caso con caños de pvc el sistema es desarmable para transportarlo en un bolso o es fijo?


j_enzo (author)  martin.diamanti4 months ago
Hola Martin, la estructura es fija, todo gomada, no la uso mas, el bote se rotó.
clarkjf12 years ago
qual o material da vela? não entendi direito. onde você encontrou?
j_enzo (author)  clarkjf12 years ago
Olá Clark, eu usei Nylon de paraquedas comum, aqui em São Paulo encontramos em lojas de tecidos profissionais, o ideal eu acredito que seria o Nylon Ripstop que é mais resistente a rasgos, na época eu não encontrei, más há alguns dias um colega comprou na região do Brás.

Hello Clark, I used common parachute nylon here in São Paulo found in professional fabric stores , I believe that the ideal would be the Nylon ripstop that is more resistant to tears, I have not found the time, but a few days ago a colleague bought in the region of Brás.
Hola J_enzo I'm using UV treated polytarp material,mine is 10 mil in thickness 12-15 mil is recommended, It was very cheap I got 10x8 feet for 12$
I was wondering how you make it all stick together (the pvc frame) did you use glue? I know you mentioned polyurethane to prevent water from going inside, does that hold it together? Maybe I missed this part.
I think I will use the same design as you originally I had thought of a bermuda sail, but I don't have that much material to work with.
j_enzo (author)  jkjkhardcore1 year ago
Hello Jkjkhardcore, I glued the PVC frame with the appropriate adhesive. After all glued I filled the inside with polyurethane not to get water.
I signed up just because of this.
j_enzo (author)  jkjkhardcore2 years ago
Thank you
ivanfang2 years ago
Hi Julio, can you drive her back perobly from down wind? cause I did made a similar one as yours by SS pipe for my SEAHWAK3, she is good for going to down wind, but hard for come back from down wind.
j_enzo (author)  ivanfang2 years ago
Hello Ivanfang, just like you I have difficulty in to sail downwind, I believe the problem tin shape and positioning of leeboards
ivanfang j_enzo2 years ago
Yes so I am going to make a big leeboard to the boat, hope it work.
zimirken3 years ago
I built a sailing rig for one of the cheap as dirt inflatable boats very similar to this. I used the intex (something) 200, which by the way will float 2 adults that weigh around double what its weight limit says on the box. One of the differences was in that for the leeboards i used two 1.5ft x 2 ft piece of plywood on either side and attached them to the pvc pipes going down the sides with u-bolts. I also used a polytarp sail. I ended up making a smaller sail (about 12 sq.ft.) than i had originally used because it was more sail than I needed. These tiny little inflatables have almost no drag in the water and that translates to this rig sailing quite fast for what it is. It also still moves in low wind conditions. This is a fantastic toy and I'm totally going to make more of these.
lucek3 years ago
You know I was designing a sailing rig for my inflatable when I found this. Thanks you just saved me some work.
j_enzo (author)  lucek3 years ago
How good that helped you
lucek j_enzo3 years ago
Actually looking again you have just about the same boat.

Biggest thing I noted was that you're rig is so much smaller and less complicated then the one I was working on. I think I could actually build this for about half the price and with less effort.

One question comes to mind did you chose the brown for a reason? I only ask because I have almost all the fittings I'd need but in white pvc.
j_enzo (author)  lucek3 years ago
Well, here in Brazil brown pvc tubes are used for high pressure water, and white are used for sewage, so the brown are stronger (in Brazil).
thekatr23 years ago
This is one thing I am going to build from this site.
Отличная статья!
j_enzo (author)  догородник4 years ago
Большое спасибо

Thank you very much
ewilhelm4 years ago
I have a commercial inflatable sailboat from Sea Eagle, which is fun and fits in the trunk of my car, but is difficult to tack unless there is plenty of wind. As I point into the wind, I quickly lose all speed and can't quite make it all the way around. Jibing is no problem, of course. How does your boat tack?
j_enzo (author)  ewilhelm4 years ago
Thanks for the comment really Ewilhelm the boat is very light, but as the hull is flat and soft, holds enough water to the boat, as I did a few rides I still can not figure out how it will behave, But just like yours, when I pass by the line of wind it greatly decreases the speed.
But when I raise the rudder, the boat makes a turn and crosses the line from the wind and I have a new direction.
Sorry my english by google, which has given hope to understand.
Have you tried using a leeboard? I don't know much about sailing- I'm reading your instructable to try and pick up some tips for making a sail rig for my canadian canoe- I'm using PVC piping as well and wasn't sure if it would be strong enough.
Canadian (open) canoeists who are really into sailing usually use a leeboard to make up for the fact that the boat has no keel- just a peice of shaped plywood which can be lowered into the water, don't know if this would improve your ability to tack ?
try googling open/canadian canoe sailing- there is a UK interest group out there.
ps your english is much better than my portugese! thanks for translating so well.
jtpoutdoor - try http://www.instructables.com/member/TimAnderson/

he has a gaff rig he has used with canoes, plus other boating adventures
thanks for that, I actually have a windsurfer sail (needs a boom and mast set up) which I am intending to use. I also have a squareish sail I have used in the past with rafted canoes and an A frame mast rig, but I like to browse and pick up (pinch) other people's ideas. I have to sort out a mast of some sort so I had a look at this thread although I probably won't go with the whole concept I like the rudder system- and at some stage I will complete my rig (and hopefully post it!)
Traditional umiak mast methods (umiak = arctic open decked boat) involve fitting a block to the keelson, then either lashing the mast to a thwart, or using a series of lashings arrayed around the mast to the gunwales on each side.

although the koryak or chuchki people in eastern siberia used a tripod mast, with two legs on one gunwale, one on the other - it doesn't give much freedom of movement to a sail.
j_enzo (author)  jtpoutdoor4 years ago
Hello Jtpoutdoor , thanks for the comments, as leeboard I use on my boat two blades oar, one on each side, because as the boat is a little off, if one side raise the other continues in the water. I believe that the yield decreases against the wind due to the reduced weight of the boat and the large area of the stern, so I think the resistance is greatly increased.
The sailing canoe using only a leeboard because the width is small, and only one is enough.
The PVC pipes I used are 40mm diameter and 3mm thick for my sail is strong enough, I believe in a canoe you will have more space to work.
Good luck with the project.

Thanks for your reply Julio, I haven't seen the brown PVC you used stocked locally- I have some grey pvc - don't think it is as thick as 3mm so a bit nervous about it!
I think some of the canoe sailing guys use two leeboards- but not both at once! I missed the fact you were using leeboards in my first look at your set up.
I know there is some technical sailing type stuff about positioning of the lee board (or keel ) for best effect - I think it was in a book not online. You had to work out the centre of your sail and the centre of your boat and do some maths- or you can just experiment with moving the leeboards further forwards or backwards and see what works best.
I've only sailed properly briefly in Toppers- I know they are flat hulled (similar to your boat- and the best way to get them to move fast is to trim them as level as possible. In a canoe with the hull shape you can get them to plane by being stern heavy. You might get better effects by moving around in your boat as you sail- have fun playing!
j_enzo (author)  jtpoutdoor4 years ago
Jtpoutdoor Hello, here in Brazil there are white PVC pipes for low pressure (to sewers), these are about 1mm thick, brown and pipes for high pressure are the kind I used, I also had doubts about the resistance, but in practice it proved strong enough.
The positioning of leeboards actually require complex calculations for the best performance, but as a rule, the amateur construction, we adopt the point of maximum power of the sail to be the point where it will be positioned leeboard. In my case I tried to use the brackets rowing, because of Jim Lucket SailboatsToGo I had suggested 30 "to 36"for use with the steering / oar in my boat and coincided with the brackets, to Rudder the distance should be less, then really think you should test some distances to get the best result. On the net you will find some sites on amateur building that can help with that.
Good luck
Good luck
gserrano7014 years ago
Very nice, I will keep it in mind to make my own sometime in the future. Congratulations.
j_enzo (author)  gserrano7014 years ago
Thanks Gserrano701, I'm sure you will enjoy it too.
ieso534 years ago
Parabéns a você e seus colaboradores pela sua empolgante e contagiante realização. Eu fiz questão de escrever em português por que é raríssimo ver vídeos brasileiros construtivos.
Congratulations to you and your colleagues for their exciting and contagious achievement. I made a point to write in Portuguese because it is rare to see Brazilian videos constructive. (by google translater)
j_enzo (author)  ieso534 years ago
Thanks, I am very pleased that the project has pleased, thanks also for the consideration of writing in Portuguese, I would like to see more projects on Instructables Brazilians. The Brazilian people are very creative.

Wasagi4 years ago
Fantastic! I really like this instructable, and your boat is terrific!
j_enzo (author)  Wasagi4 years ago
Thank you very much
imac494 years ago
Thanks for sharing. I always wanted to do that and perhaps now I will.
Well done
j_enzo (author)  imac494 years ago
Get to work, build your show and show us.
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