Infrared Proximity Sensing Coffee Table Module & Color Changing Glowing Faucet

This video can be found on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5n0rw8wo14
Check out the other one, and some other of my videos


This is merely an instructable to explain how this device operates. I hope everything is not too obfuscated.


This prototype consists of three 8x8” modules. Each module operates independently of each other. Each module consists of 4 “pixels”. Each pixel is 4 inches square and consists of 21 LEDs, two IR emitting diodes, and two IR photodiodes. The mode of sensing is active infrared.

Check out my Color Changing Glowing Faucet
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBzTNcXIbWA

Step 1 Infrared Sensor

The IR sensor is a simple voltage divider former by two parallel IR photodiodes which are wired reversed biased. When a photodiode is reversed biased (like an LED connected up backwards) it acts like a variable resistor which changes resistance with respect to the amount of light (mainly infrared light) falling on it. The high resistance of the second static value 1 Megohm (R2) provides a voltage divider with the dividing node rising in voltage with an increase in IR light falling onto the photodiodes(R1).

V-in is 5 volts.

 

Comments

[Cloudhail]

I see on your YouTube channel that you have a newer way that you have done this. One with less components. The newest video you have on there. Can you make an instructable for that one?

[Dr Snick]

hey okay you have a 470uF and a 22uF but what resistance is on the 511-L7805CV ST Linear Regulators? and on the 556-ATMEGA48-20PU that little blue resistance?

[rajarath]

if i use an ATmega168 or ATmega328 how much will stuff have to change?

[grahmaustin]

Well, the analog 5 volt supply to the AVR goes through a 10uH inductor (aqua green, next to 7805) and a 100nF bypass cap (tiny blue cap). There is a 5.6k resistor across 5volts to the reset pin.

I also included a PPTC resettable fuse(yellowish) going to the 5v reg.

Sorry about not having the best schematic.

[slwthr]

how to make the header file?

[slwthr]

Dear Friend
Do you have compiled hex code? please if you have send it to my email.I want to try this one.
email: [e-mail]
Regards,
Harith.

[domdomgin]

DID U GET THE HEX FILE I SO PLEASE GIVE ME AT [e-mail]

[slwthr]

No my friend.He haven't send it yet.I don't know why. Did you try to compile his code? I tried a lot times.But the code which he given here is wrong.Its not working and even its not compiling..So many errors. Please if you got right code let me know. my email : [e-mail]

[rtalada]

Two words: Lite Brite!

[slwthr]

Dear Friend
Do you have compiled hex code? please if you have send it to my email.I want to try this one.
email: [e-mail]
Regards,
Harith.

[slwthr]

Hello,I really want to make this one.And also I collect all the parts..And waiting to know about how to compile this code.Really I tried a lot times and it says errors and warnings too.Please can you tell me how to compile this code without any trouble.There is some errors with the functions.Please do you have any compiled hex code for this?? If you have please send it to me.
My email: [e-mail]

[Fireater989]

Two words: Peg board.

[grahmaustin]

wrong size holes on the peg board ;)

[Fireater989]

I saw a related Instructable where the guy used peg board, but even if they are, I'd rather take a drill and make all of them a little bit bigger just so everything is even. I'm going to try to make this project for part of a light show I'm making for a contest. If you've ever head of Phoenix Contact, they hold a contest every year for high school kids to use their Nanoline microcontroller and any Phoenix parts to build a project. First place goes to Germany and gets their own booth at the Hanover Industrial Trade Fair in Hanover, Germany. My team won this year and I just got back Saturday :) I'm going to try to use this idea to use for the floor of the room, with frosted Plexiglass on top. I'm also going to try to make the light create a rippling effect from the point where the person steps on. Wish me luck and I can ensure you that I'll post any questions I have and a video of the finished thing, if my team decides to take the idea

[Mr. GMD]

Hello Grahmaustin,
first off, I must say that this is a great project !! Well done man !! But could you answer me one thing ? I was looking at the schematic and the board layout, and was trying to figure out if the resistor at pini1 of the Atmega48 connects to pin 7 and gets 5V(red wire) ?
2. Does pin 1 go to the coil also (purple wire)?
3. Is the pink wire connected to the coil middle pin also ?
Thanks.

[grahmaustin]

hello

resistor from pin1 does goes to pin 7. This is the pull-up resistor for the reset pin.

pin1 also connects to the purple wire, this goes to the 6pin programming port. This allows the programmer to reset the chip.

The pink wire should be the MOSI wire. Simply connects the programmer to the chip and also to the darlington array. It should not connect directly to 5V or gnd.

cheers

[kalsara01]

I know how hard to do such a thing. GREAT GREAT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! no doubt about that.
i like to visit your house. that may be a electronic kingdom.

hats off............

[Skai]

its this kind of instructable that makes me want to pimp out my entire life with led lights and microcontrollers

[kalsara01]

yaaaa..... me too. im dying to do such a amazing work !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great gob grahmaustin !!!!!!!!!

[domdomgin]

where r the leds connected and ir leds..please let me know..

[jayjay110]

Ok, ive got a question... say that I wanted the entire thing you did, in my pocket, could i just connect the photodiodes to an LED and then to a power source, and then the same kinda thing would happen, coz im a big noob at this and dont really understand how it works?

[grahmaustin]

can't imagine that would work, at least I can't make it work. Let me know if you do or find someone that does. Sorry I can't help you there. Stay motivated.

[jayjay110]

ok thanks, i havnt been able to find anything yet though :(

[nouserr]

awesome mate!really good job! i want to make ma living room table in this way :D

[Pierred35]

Hello Grahmaustin,

Firstable, very good job. Your system works pretty well!

I would like to do more or less the same thing and I have just a question.
My project is to detect or not an object, not as yours with a distance sensing.
See this video showing you what is my expected result: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X60p1GwNq3Q
So when a object is detected to a fix distance, leds turn on, otherwise they are off.

You system work as below:
1) turn on IR emitter,
2) make an ADC convertion to determine how far is the object to detect,
3) turn off IR emitter,
4) turn on white leds in consequence of step 2 using a PWM command.

So, more the object is close to the IR emitter, more light is received by the IR sensor.
I would like to replace the step 2 by something that tell me if the light received is more than a certain range or not. Do you have a idea how to do that without using ADC convertion? I will use and digital I/O on my microprocesor to treat with the information and make animations as in the video.

Thanks for you answer,
Have a good day and make us dream a long time again with many new instructables of your amazing project!!!

[syrax]

sensacell makes capacitive touch sensor panels :) i make like this one with qprox sensor chips, but the price ..... this is the clip with IR sensors and Cap sensors:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrYaz7jAaGQ

[grahmaustin]

Hi there, and thank you. I understand what you want, but I think it might be difficult to make work. I understand that you want to do away with the ADC conversion all together and have a digital input to your microcontroller. This is possible by eliminating the analog input to the uC(microcontroller) by passing the analog signal from the sensor to a simple comparator, using a reference voltage of your choice. So that when the analog signal from the sensor gets above a certain voltage level, the comparator output goes high, which can be a digital signal to the uC. BUT, you will still want to try to push alot of current through the IR emitters so they will shine very bright, and thus give you a greater sensing distance and/or more reliable readings. But to do that you must
1.turn on IR emitter/s
2.delay of something very short
3.check uC pin HIGH or LOW
4.turn off IR emitter/s
Look at the datasheets for the emitters, I think some will allow you to push 1 amp! through it for 100 usecs. I push a little less than 100 mA through mine for 250 usecs. But its still enough current to fry the LED if left on at that level.

So all in all, yours is very doable. You will just have an extra level of electronic components before your signal is conditioned before going to the uC.

Good luck, feel free to keep asking. and thanks again for the feedback

[Kronis]

I'm starting to learn about how to use arduino and solid-state electronics. Where did you learn what you know? Thanks for the inspiration to keep learning!

[grahmaustin]

I started with arduino as well, then moved into pure analog control (big mistake), and then went back to programming, except I just learned to program in C and go straight to the AVR instead of going through the Arduino. Its alot cheaper.

My learning curve is google->google->more google-> trial and error-> error-> error-> more error -> back to google -> error -> Success -> next aspect of design. . .rinse, lather, repeat.

There are also alot of good tutorials online, find those if you want to get your head wrapped around components and how they work.

[Kronis]

thank you. I'll do that.

[yalmog]

Great project! What type of op-amp did you use? (cause 1M ohm seems like a lot to place in the input). Using my op-amp and my Green revered LED I'm unable to get a light-depended voltage.

[grahmaustin]

Its a CMOS opamp, has to be CMOS otherwise it will pull to much current away from the sensor and render the sensor useless

[yalmog]

Thanks. Do have the exact IC name? Also, what is the purpose of the 47pF capacitor?

[grahmaustin]

Very good question.

"This reverse flow creates a dip in the voltage level at the node where the ADC reading is taken. I got rid of this dip by putting a small value capacitor (47pF – 100 pF) across the 1Mohm resistor of the voltage divider. This greatly reduces the level of dip, but also costs time to charge up the capacitor when the voltage level rises quickly. "

AVRmega48, I think thats the name of the controller

[Dr Snick]

Really nice Project! i want to construct this with a Arduino Duemilanove Board. I hope it works

[grahmaustin]

Good luck. Let me know if it works.

[kingchristo]

What do you need to program the ATmega48-20PU chip thanks

[grahmaustin]

Software: AVRstudio4 and winAVR files

Hardware: AVRISP MKII, USB Cable

[Dr Snick]

(removed by author or community request)

[grahmaustin]

Unfortunately I don't have time to revise the plans. I work offshore, travel all the time, and have other projects I am pursuing. Im am not sure where you are seeing the 70nF and 22nF. I forgot what bypass cap I used for the AVR analog supply, might be one of those values.