I will address supplies and tools in each step.
Step 1: Make a Plan or Plan to Fail
Most installations will be a single loop perimeter setup. This is one wire around the desired containment area with a supply lead and possibly driveway/ sidewalk crossings. I'll stick to that as it was the nature of my project. There are lots of resources for more complex configurations, the kit manufacturer is a good place to start.
I had to cross 2 concrete driveway sections in my project. I was able to use wood expansion joints with shallow slots cut using a skill saw in both cases. I've included a photo of the mfg instructions as they are clear and concise.
Mark the desired wire path using marker paint. Marker paint is with the spray paint in most big box stores. The marker tool is not necessary, but I already had one. Pay attention to large roots as they can become challenging obstacles.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Trench
I used a gas edger with a modified blade to make the trench. My edger has a forward rotating blade ( cutting bottom sweeps to back). The blade, as pictured, has a slight bend on the trailing edge to make the trench wider and to help pitch the dirt to the side.
The other trick is to pull the edger backwards along the marked line instead of going forward. This will keep the majority of the removed trailings from going back into the trench. The example on the open dirt shows how much wider the trench is using the modified blade.
Step 3: Twisting the Wire for Signal Free Wire Crossing
Using a variable speed drill with a j hook in the chuck, measure a piece of wire 1.5 times the distance of the desired run length plus 3-5 feet additional tail for your loop end to connect to. Pair this up with the main wire and securely loop the end over a small cable gimbal. Hook the gimbal on the drill and have a second person slowly ( SLOWLY!) operate the drill while you pinch the pair of wires to achieve the twist. Work your way down the pair, controlling the twist as you go. The twist rate will probably be greater than 10 twists per foot, but that is fine. If you twist too long of a section, just cut the excess off. Also, remember to leave the tail you added in for the loop termination connection.
Step 4: Install the Wire Into the Trench
At the conclusion of the loop, I connected the loop end to the tail remaining from the wire twist step by soldering the well twisted connection then coating the bare soldered with liquid plastic. Once the liquid plastic hardened, I then pushed that connection into a supplied water resistant connector case and sealed that shut with silicone RTV.
Secure the wire with staples as needed, but don't drive them all the way down until you have a successful loop test. It would be a pain removing that many that were driven home.
If you live in an area that has significant ground temperature change, you might consider adding a small Z bend in the wire every 50' to allow for contraction during cold months.
Good luck with your project.