Step 9: Lifting the cover.

Once you're done with all screws and get the prying tool and stick it in the gap between the cover and the computer body. Slowly and carefully work your way around the perimeter and then lift one corner and pick it up with your hands. Cover should come off with no excessive effort. If it feels like applying force, then stop and double-check everything.
<p>Have you done the instructable for migrating data from the old Hard Drive yet? I really enjoyed this one, especially all of the specific details and abundance of pictures, so I would LOVE to be able to see your instructions for that part too! =)</p>
<p>So why not use cheap chinese tools my Mac was made in China! </p>
<p>Why didn't you disconnect the battery connector from the mother board before installing or removing drives?</p>
If computer is properly shutdown and you're being careful, then it's an unnecessary step. You're welcome to disconnect the battery, but be gentle with the connector and you'll need to reconnect it before testing for hardware errors when powering up the computer with the bottom cover open.
<p>your idea of using adheasive tape as a means of organizing hardware is great!</p><p>Thanks for the instructable </p><p>Nitrous</p>
<p>Thanks! I came up with it when disassembling a canon camera -- there were about 70 screws, so I fairly quickly realized that there is no way to remember their position. In case of canon camera I put whole parts on a adhesive board with screws next to their respective holes. Wish I'd made a pic of that first experiment ,)</p>
On step 20 I'm a bit confused. Do you turn on the computer? Also, will this work on current MacBook Pro models?
<p>Yes, you turn the computer on briefly to verify that it's not throwing an error during boot. Generally, when a Mac sounds a chime at boot, that means that it passed the hardware test, so that's what you're looking for.<br><br>As per newer macs, they don't have this kind of hard drive in them, so this intsructable won't work with later generation MacBook Pros. </p>
<p>About to do it.</p><p>The heat shrink on the earth terminal is CRITICAL! If the terminal were to rotate in the plug, without the heat shrink, it could be TERMINAL!</p>
<p>Great instructions - mine required a T7 screwdriver on the hard drive screws though rather than a T6.</p>
Alternate title: How to Void AppleCare.
<p>Incorrect. Replacing your hard drive and memory are pretty much the only two things that you CAN do as an end-user without voiding your AppleCare. Check your facts.</p>
modern, good quality SSDs are not less reliable than conventional hard drives, which is especially true for laptops.<br> <br> <strong><a href="http://freeallsoftwares.com/" rel="nofollow">Laptop Drivers</a></strong>
Tip; <br> <br>Boost your SSD to motherboard speed by 20 to 25% by shielding the thing cable from the SSD with a antistatic bag. .. I used one from a old HHD- purchase, cut it up to fit and placed it between the SSD and the cable.. all the way to the motherboard. <br> <br>Boosted my login-time from 21 to 16 seconds. <br> <br>The guy who gave me the advice had tested it with some technical stuff and rambled about magnetism and data-corruption.. I can just say it works :-)
Not sure about Macs but I assume you can clone the drives in a cloning dock (very inexpensive these days) just as you can with Windows and Linux.<br>Your suggestion to &quot;migrate data from your old Hard Drive&quot; sort of suggests (to me at least) that the old drive has to now be put in an external dock. I'm not sure how a Mac handles that but I expect you'd need to install all the OS/applications first.<br>Surely cloning would be easier?<br>Looking forward to your next Instructable.
You are keeping your screws all wrong. They need to go on the bench with 300 other screws. Then you sort it all out the following week.
That's exactly what happens most of the time, especially when working on car engines -- those greasy ones don't stick to a tape :)
Easy fix - use an old muffin tray and number the cups from 1. <br><br>Fill it up from number 1 and then when reassembling you work backwards to 1.
Wow...<br><br>Don't take this the wrong way, but you went through A LOT of steps for something minor.<br><br>1. You don't need anti-static wrist band or mats, unless you have a penchant for touching bare circuit boards. Just make sure you're not dragging your feet on the carpet, and you're probably fine. I generally work on a hard floor surface (kitchen is usually perfect for this) and I don't move around a lot. You can ground yourself by touching a screw on a light socket.<br><br>2. There is absolutely no need for any loctite. I see you have good tools, but for anyone that has substandard screwdrivers (ie the wrong size), putting loctite on small screws like this (red or blue) will likely just cause them to strip the screws. I can't stress this enough.<br><br><br>
You are absolutely right, most of the steps seem to be optional and can be avoided. What I'm showing here is good work ethics, and your job is to skip steps you think are unnecessary. You sound like a person who knows all these tools and how to use them, but for some people this info can be useful.<br><br>With all due respect, I strongly disagree with your comment about NOT using loctite. In most cases it's not a good idea, but with these unibody macs -- absolutely necessary. I deal with hundreds of these guys due to the nature of my job, and I see these machines with loose/lost screws all the time. I'm not sure what's wrong with them in the first place, but after some time of normal use these screws start to loosen up. I even developed a habit of checking the tightness of these screws every time I get one of these in my hands, and you'll be surprised. <br><br>Another argument in support of loctite use is that they actually use it when assembling these computers. That little blue spot on the side of the threads you see every time you take a screw out of MacBook pro -- that's the originally applied loctite. Though I'm not trying to convince anyone, just sharing my experience. Good luck and thanks for the comment!
Save some money - a smear of cheap superglue / Cyanoacrylate (sp?) works just as well. And you can pick it up at the dollar store for way less than loctite.<br><br>Our local nut and screw wholesaler recommends superglue, but theirs is 12x the cost.
Wonderful instructable, Doctor Jazz. Clear, concise, and great photography.<br>Thank you very glad!
I see you are using Red Loctite. I think you should use Blue because Red is too strong. Usually requires heat to loosen screws from Red Loctite.
That is totally true, I shouldn't be using or recommending others to use the Red Loctite, I just ran out of the blue -- my bad. Lemme put that correction in that step before others get into trouble. <br><br>Thanks for pointing that out!
I would suggest using no Loctite. Of all the computers I have disassembled/reassembled I have never used it, and never had a problem. Especially on the body since thtere is a chance you might want to get back inside there sometime in the future...
That's exactly what I did a few weeks ago to replace a dying hard drive in a white Late 2007 Macbook !<br><br>SSD's are the best when it comes to daily use. <br><br>Fast boot, fast access to apps, silent computer, the only drawback being the space offered, which varies depending on your budget !<br><br>I did use a 60 Gigs SSD, which cost me 60 Euros, for all the &quot;not-so-often&quot; data, they are on a NAS :)<br><br>Good Instructable, very nice and clean :) <br><br>
Wait, wait, wait... (I have already thought about this a few months ago when I was thinking about getting an SSD) If an SSD is flash memory, isn't it almost like a very large flash drive with a ATA connection? And doesn't that mean after a (very large) number of read/writes it will eventually fail? I was also thinking about getting a flash drive for an (Linux!!!) OS, but I thought it would be safer to get a small external HDD instead so it doesn't fail as quickly. So the main point and my question for this comment is:<br><br>Doesn't flash memory (eventually) fail after a number of read/writes?
That is true, that flash memory eventually fails after certain number for re-writes, but that number of writes it fairly large and there are various algorithms inside the hardware, that make sure that &quot;writes&quot; ave evenly distributed across the entire available space. <br><br>And by the way, the question that you raised is also true for spinning hard drives. They also fail, and there are also algorithms/code in the hardware that takes care of marking bad blocks and moving them somewhere else. <br><br>So you may be using your hard drive or SSD and on the surface there would be no indication of any lost cells, but in reality they die (like our brain cells) continuously, until that deterioration reaches some sort of breaking point. That was the long winded version of the answer, sorry about that. <br><br>Short answer is this: modern, good quality SSDs are not less reliable than conventional hard drives, which is especially true for laptops.
this is awesome for an os drive, quick boots etc. but its better if there is another hdd that does all the hard work, but its a right pain making sure all the new software installs on the conventional hdd, and not the boot hd.
Actually that kinda defeats the purpose. Application launch is also an important factor in overall speed perception. In configuration you're proposing, I would rather install all applications and system related stuff on the SSD, but load tons of not-so-often-accessed files (photos, movies, etc) to the secondary drive, basically putting my whole home folder there, except for the library -- you want it to stay on SSD.
also do not do defrags on these it shortens the life of them.
Good point. :)

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