Heat pumps are one of the most efficient ways to heat a house - since they pump heat, rather than create it, they can paradoxically have an efficiency greater than 100% (a resistive electric heating element has an efficiency of 100%, and a fossil-fuel heating system less than 100% - because some heat is lost up the flue).

Traditionally in North America ducted air heat pumps have been used for cooling, and also for heating in winter. Typically a large unit is installed which serves the entire house through a duct system installed during construction. The warm and cold sides of the pump are contained in a single unit.

In recent years the ductless split heat pump has been introduced. The warm and cold sides of the pump are contained in separate units, connected by refrigerant lines. A mini-split unit can serve a single room, while a dual or triple split unit can serve two or three rooms with separate indoor units connected to a single outdoor unit. The compressor is located in the outdoor unit, while the indoor unit is relatively small and lightweight.

Since the refrigerant lines are of modest diameter, and the indoor units small, these systems can be retrofitted to an existing house relatively easily with minimal disruption.

Step 1: Preparation

(these instructions were written for the Senville Aura series; there are a number of similar units by other manufacturers such as Fujitsu and Lennox)

The first step is to determine the correct size of heat pump. For a given location, climate records will give an outdoor temperature range. For instance, on 97% of days the temperature will not fall below -10C or rise above +25C. Then, given a desired indoor temperature range, say +15C to +21C, it is possible to calculate maximum heat loss and gain for a particular room given the envelope area (walls, ceiling etc.) and R-value of each component such as walls, doors, windows. This may have already been done as part of the original building design. Alternatively, one might estimate it based on floor area and local construction practice.

The next step is to determine suitable locations for the components (indoor and outdoor units). For the Aura, the indoor unit weighs about 10kg and is designed to be mounted high on an exterior wall. The outdoor unit weighs about 40kg and can be mounted on a concrete slab, on a bracket hung from a wall, or on a metal stand. Consult the installation manual for recommended clearances. The outdoor unit should not be exposed to severe weather and should not be located where it can suck in debris, dirt, leaves etc. In operation, it will blow warm air (when cooling), or cold air (when heating), so should probably not be sited next to a patio etc. where people sit.

The two units are connected by refrigerant lines, and by an electrical cable, and can be at some distance from one another. For the Aura, the maximum allowed line length is 20m, and the maximum difference in height is 8m. In addition to the lines and cable, both units have a condensate drain, which should be routed outside using pipe with a consistent downward slope.

If no engineering drawings are available for the units, it may be necessary to make measurements yourself to determine the location of mounting brackets and service lines. For instance, the smaller Aura indoor units have brackets on an 18" pitch, while the outdoor units have brackets on a 21" pitch.

The outdoor unit is significantly noisier (54dBA) than the indoor unit (37dBA); it should probably not be near an open window.

The smaller Aura set requires nominal 230V split-phase AC at 9A, on a 15A breaker. Larger sets may require 20A or 25A service. The indoor unit(s) are powered from the outdoor unit. Since regular outlets are probably nominal 115V, and the heatpump should have a dedicated breaker, it is probably necessary to run new cable from a breaker panel to the outdoor unit location.

The Aura is shipped with refrigerant line stubs folded inside the back of the unit. There are cutouts on either side of the case, so the lines may be routed out the left side across the wall, through a hole in the wall behind the unit of the left, or the lines may be bent straight and routed directly through the wall behind the unit on the right. Alternatively they could, with care, be bent to the right. It is necessary after installation to connect the refrigerant lines, so the geometry must allow access (not locate the joins inside a wall, for instance).

If the indoor unit is mounted on wood-frame construction, at least one bracket should be secured to a wall stud. Ideally a backing plate should be used if there are not two studs available at suitable locations, though cavity-wall toggles to hold 5kg should be adequate.

All measurements and planning should be done before drilling a single hole - try not to have the coolant lines emerge behind a downpipe that cannot be moved, or sever a wall stud or water pipe.

<p>Wrong! I'm not trying to be <br>disrespectful but there is a lot wrong with the above Instructable. <br>In the HVAC world you never come across flare fittings for a reason, <br>they leak!</p><p>Also you should<strong> never use a vacuum pump <br>as a indicator of a leak. </strong>At the most you are putting 15psi pressure <br>on the outside pulling in. Properly done you purge the lineset with <br><strong>dry Nitrogen to 150 psi</strong> and wait 30 minutes and check for a <br>difference.</p><p>Then you pull a vacuum but not just any <br>vacuum you want a vacuum to <strong>500 microns</strong> or lower! When your pulling a <br>vacuum your extracting all the non-condensables out like air and <br>water. If there is water in the lineset and pull a vacuum without a <br>micron gauge you have no idea how good of a vacuum your pulling and <br>running a risk of shortening the life of your compressor. </p><p>Or hooking up a micron gauge to your <br>vacuum pump directly to see if it can even pull 500 or lower microns. <br>When you reduce pressure you lower the boiling point of water from <br>212 degrees f to 70 degrees or lower causing water to boil at room temperature and extracting all the water. 250 microns is considered a <br>deep vacuum and is best but 500 is mandated by the EPA.</p>
<p>I don't always read these comments in a timely manner, apologies for the delay.</p><p>As you can guess this is my first attempt at a heatpump system, and I'd probably do things differently a second time. There was a local rebate program, my ceiling heating was broken, so I bought the cheapest system I could find on the basis that if it worked I'd get the cost back fairly rapidly in lower heating bills, and anyway how hard could it be.</p><p>The AURA series do indeed use flare fittings. Maybe more expensive or better engineered models don't. Some of what I wrote is more-or-less straight out of their installation manual. The unit is probably manufactured in China for a US company, but the instructions were written in the US and translated to metric for the Canadian market, which is where I bought it. So I was basically following the manufacturers instructions rather than using a textbook.</p><p>I was using a Tri Vac roughing pump as used for physics experiments, with an Pirani pressure gauge. I figured that was probably good enough - no need to go to a turbo pump and get 10 microns or whatever, seeing as the installation manual shows a bourdon gauge and the only point I could see in pumping down was to remove any moisture from the system as you say.</p>
I enjoyed your instructable overall it's nicely laid out and organized. I hope I didn't sound critical or harsh about my opinions. <br><br>Most mini-splits have flare fittings but I prefer not to use them. Flares are great, they are easy to disconnect. Brazing is a little more difficult with $ and time.<br><br>You don't really need a micron gauge but without one your not sure if your still drawing out moisture. Actually I lied in the US your required to pull a vacuum of 500 microns or less according to the EPA so basically implying you need something to measure microns.<br><br>Are you happy with your heat pump?
I'm a hvac engineer here in the il and you cannot buy heat pump or any ac equipment containing fgas without a fgas qualification as it is illegal. Nice simple how to for people not in the know how though
<p>This blog is really very informative, gives a clear idea about heat pump installation.</p><p>When we are going for installation of <a href="http://www.goldstarheatpumps.co.nz/" rel="nofollow">heat pumps</a>, many times we are not satisfy with the service or price. To get a satisfactory service we have to choose a right - experienced service provider. goldstarheatpumps is one of these and appreciable for its service with in a reasonable price. </p><p>Thanks for such an insightful posting.</p>
<p>The above was written using the installation instructions for the Senville Aura as a guide. Some jurisdictions may have regulations which mandate alternate installation or commissioning steps. It may be required to use the services of a professional HVAC technician for commissioning.</p>
<p>Also using refrigerant to leak test is Illegal I would suggest rephrasing that line.</p><blockquote>EPA is performing random inspections, responding to tips, and pursuing <br>potential cases against violators. Under the Act, EPA is authorized to assess <br>fines of up to $37,500 per day for any violation of these regulations.</blockquote><blockquote><p>http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/title6/608/608fact.html</p></blockquote>

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