Slugs will ruin a vegetable garden pretty fast unless some serious means of taking care of them is implemented.  The electric fence has proven to be pretty well 100% effective in my experiments to date.  The fence consists of two runs of wires spaced about 3/4 inch apart running around the perimeter of the raised bed - one wire is connected to the +ve terminal and the other to the -ve terminal of a battery. An electric current will flow through the slug if it makes contact with both wires at the same time. The resulting "shock" with usually cause the slug to turn back. 

I've been using a 9-volt battery as the power source, the battery  lasts the whole growing season but the voltage drops to 5 volts or so by the end of the season (my measurements). It's a good idea to check the volage once in a while to make sure the battery is still providing enough voltage (corrosion can be a problem at the battery connectors).  A few years ago when setting up a new fence I didn't have a 9-volt battery connector so I used a multi-battery  AA holder that I had on hand.  The combined series connection of batteries gave 12 volts.  This turned out to be a bad idea as the 12 volts would more often than not kill the slugs rather than just turn them away. 

The nice thing about the slug fence is that it is on duty 24-7, many other slug control methods require some kind of regular checking or resupplying.  Also, no dangerous chemicals to worry about with this setup.

My first electric fence was mounted on a low "raised" bed garden.  It was effective until the vegetation in the garden grew high enough to bend over and touch the ground - this gave the slugs the bridge they needed to reach the main feast.

The video below demonstrates how a slug typically reacts when attempting to cross the fence.  It is interesting to notice from the video that once the slug was "shocked" a number of times (by making contact with both wires) it was then conditioned to react the same way when touching just one wire (no current flow possible through the slug).

Step 1: The video demonstrates the effectiveness of the fence

But occasionally an innocent worm will get zapped while trying to cross the fence... 
<p>Amazing electric fence that you have presented here.It is a great way to protect your yard from wild animals.I liked your step-by-step instruction that is very simple and helpful.I got so many useful tips from your post and I can see how it would add to the privacy to your yard.Thanks for sharing this post. </p>
<p>Isn&acute;t a simple combination of copper and zinc without any active electrical power working well enough?</p><p>...and how to parry this little one:</p><p><a href="http://www.sapnet.co.za/bookcovers/2/7/3/9782733832370.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://www.sapnet.co.za/bookcovers/2/7/3/978273383...</a></p><p>:-P</p>
Catching the flying snails a bit tricky :) I did a fairly reasonable comparison of several slug control methods but none compare with the method described. Here the other instructable&nbsp;<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Comparing-slug-control-methods/" rel="nofollow">http://www.instructables.com/id/Comparing-slug-control-methods/</a>
<p>&quot;The video also shows that my &quot;brilliant&quot; idea of having the slugs slime <br>create a voltage when it connects between a copper and aluminum <br>conductor didn't work either.&quot;</p><p>Exactly what I meant. But this now is astonishing me, I think I also have to do some research and review about this. Probably aluminium is not the perfect material of choice. I am still thinking of zinc!</p><p>But for your better idea here the next step could be solar powered!</p><p>:-)</p>
<p>Hi Thanks for the Instructable.</p>
<p>Hi, thanks for the Instructable, I made it and it's working perfectly. I'm not much of a guru with electricity, but is there a way to set this up like one of those piezo-electric tennis racquet style fly swats? I imagine the battery would last much longer this way. If you know how to do this please let me know.</p>
<p>Thanks for the pictures. Many thousands have viewed my slug control videos over the years but this is the first pictures I've seen of some one actually having the slug control system in place and working. Not sure about the electric tennis racquet operation so won't attempt to make a suggestion on it... but the 9-volt battery typically lasts for the whole growing season so no big deal re life span. I noticed that you have your wires running on the top edge of the raised bed border wood. Might have a chance of the battery draining faster due to standing water but I don't think it will be a problem.</p>
<p>I'm glad to have brightened your day! I'm sure the battery will last long enough, it was just the engineer in me thinking of ways to improve the system. I placed the wires on top due to one edge of the bed being fixed to the privacy fence, I tested my circuit in heavy rain with a voltmeter and it doesn't appear to be shorting out. I will keep an eye on things and report back later in the year.</p>
<p>I visited your link and was very much glad to see this lovely project on electric fence.I really appreciated your insightful ideas and thoughts and I think these ideas will definitely inspire to every homeowners.This way you can give an elegant touch to your yard with safety and security. Thanks for nice capture.</p>
<p>I have a community garden with 50 beds and slugs are a huge problem. I was considering trying this method on a few beds...but there are children always running about and I'm concerned about them touching it and getting a zap - any ideas folks? </p>
<p>Hi, this is safe for children, it would be the same as if they touched the top of a 9v battery, i.e. you wouldn't feel anything. The 12v option should also be safe, however at this voltage you would get a small jolt (most farmers' electric fences are 12v).</p>
<p>A couple of notes on using 12-volts. First: I tried 12 volts (a series of AA cells) and found that the slugs were more often killed rather than just turned away. Second: NEVER use a high current 12-volt battery for this application (such as a car battery). The current supply capability is way too high and a short circuit between the wires would cause them to get very hot. However the 9-volt battery works just great as the internal resistance of the battery limits the current so there should not be a problem even with a short.</p>
<p>My father and my grandfather are farmers and the fences are actually putting out 4-12 KV! No you didn't read wrong. Still it won't kill you unless you have a weak heart.</p>
<p>Are they keeping velociraptors? ;-)</p>
<p>I dunno what you mean with velociraptors, I'm not from England neither can google translate define it ;)</p>
<p>Hi, I was wondering if it is possible to do this setup on the bottom of a chicken coop to deter rats? :) </p>
<p>Check out my other instructable re Electric Fence for Mice. That might be worth looking into for rats. But you can get a nasty little shock using this method but I think it will keep the rats out. Here's the link http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-electric-fence-for-mice/</p>
<p>sure, but rather use a capacitor, but not over 100v that may be dangerous even for people.</p>
<p>I visited your link and was very much glad to see this beautiful project.I appreciated your insightful ideas.I also deal with <a href="http://www.californiafenceco.com/products.html" rel="nofollow">fencing</a> supplies and love to read your topics and I think your ideas will definitely inspire to every homeowners.Nice sharing.</p>
<p>A great idea which I plan to try this sping. A question. Does rain have any effect on the effectiveness of this (short circuit)?</p>
<p>Nothing noticeable or easily measurable. The relatively low voltage combined with the wide separation of the wires and the insulating characteristics of the wood all work together to make current drain, even when wet, minimal.</p>
<p>I watched the video. I have a bean garden and the slugs are terrible when it rains... i applaud you!. (also the sound effects made me laugh )</p>
<p>Thanks jon... yeah around here they do a lot of damage throughout the growing season.</p>
<p>Just wondering, but why don't you not want slugs in the garden? I mean, I can think of a lot of animals to keep out of the garden, but I didn't think slugs did much harm to plants. Although I really like the idea, even though I wouldn't use it in my garden, I could however use an electric fence.</p>
<p>slugs do loads of harm...they eat plants so make holes in the leaves, fruits and stems of your plants causing them to either die, cause scars or allow rot in therefore spoiling the food which you put your time and money into.</p>
<p>This is one of the articles which motivated me to do my own electric slug fence project. Although I do not have raised beds, I made my fence on the ground, using some old planks - and it works. Number of slugs on my salad after installing it = 0. I made a blog entry about it (hope it is not intrusive): <a href="http://spacepetuniareview.blogspot.com/2014/05/slug-wars-chapter-1-making-diy-electric.html" rel="nofollow">http://spacepetuniareview.blogspot.com/2014/05/slug-wars-chapter-1-making-diy-electric.html</a></p><p>Cheers!</p>
Just made two....let the growing season begin!!<br><br>One question to you all..... how do YOU test your snail fence? ???
<p>Other than what I did for the video (placing slugs near the fence) you could use a simple multi-meter (VOM) set to voltage. Measure the voltage between the two wires anywhere along the run (not at the battery terminals only). I'm thinking that anything above 4 volts should work.</p>
I tried that with a battery tester. Do I have some wrong thinking going on there? I thought that would work. It didn't show anything. I ended up doing the tongue test. That did work. ;-) I was hoping to find another way though.
<p>Wonder if you tried the tester at the battery terminals? If it showed voltage there then there's a good chance that you need to make better contact between your tester and the wires by just pushing hard against the wires with the test pins/clips (I'm basing this on the positive results of your tongue test).</p>
<p>I like it. Simple, and effective. Very good information.</p>
<p>This guy got tired of deer eating his garden every night and hooked a live 110v wire about three feet high around the perimeter. Yeah, I know, dangerous as hell. I'm not advocating this. Early every evening he would plug it in at the house and it worked, no deer. So, one night he forgot to plug it in until right before going to bed. Next morning he found three deer inside the garden.</p>
A few days ago I thought about a modified version of this, for teaching a cat that enjoys pissing at our terrace door a lesson. <br>There are some metal stairs outside the door on which the cat must be standing while &quot;marking&quot; the door. <br>I will try to connect one pole of the 9V battery to the metal grid and make kinda spiral of wire that sticks to the door and connect it to the other pole. <br>I&acute;m curious ;) Evil cat!
Your idea has a very low probability of working. There was an episode of the &quot;Mythbusters&quot; television show wherein they tested the story of a railway worker being electrocuted while urinating on the third rail. They used a dummy rigged to emit a stream of salt water to simulate a urine stream. High-speed photography revealed that the &quot;urine&quot; stream was breaking into droplets as it fell, and thus the electric circuit was not being completed.
<p>I agree with finton, I've seen the effects of peeing on an electric fence and it was 'jolting'. Also on a small gas engine spark plug.</p>
And yet the idea worked fine when I peed, in the dark, on a farm's electric fence many years ago...
Create a Walcroft - Walton voltage multiplier circuit, from a small AC transformer - ramp it up to a few thousand volts DC with a capacitor on it.<br> <br> This will solve the problem
Don't you mean &quot;Cockcroft-Walton&quot; ... ?
<p>A question: Where do get the battery connectors? I can imagine pirating an old flashlight or some other dollar store-type item. If you update this instructable, could you add some pictures along this line, and additional instructions?</p>
<p>darkisland51 - 9-volt battery connectors are available from electronics supply stores such as Radio Shack and The Source.</p>
Brilliant. But why wouldn't you want to just Kill the slugs. I hate those slimy things.
Using chemicals is a bad idea. It's the best way to get more snails. If the snails die by the chemical they throw away their eggs (they have a lot of them in their body) and for one dead snail u will get 100 after some weeks. Chemicals are a woderfull sample of how to fool consuments. <br> <br>Btw: Beer has the same effect. Snails you do not have in your garden like the beer and on the way to the beer trap they have sex. Same result. So the electric fence is a very good solution.
Metaldehyde works quite well on snails and slugs. They don't get far after ingesting it and have no opportunity to lay eggs. It's been used for over 80 years with great success and is the active ingredient in most snail and slug baits. Moreover, when exposed to sun and water, it decomposes into harmless components.
<p>Inside the chemicals is an attractant. This is the fooling (or better , the bad idea). If you have some snails in your garden use such chemicals and your garden is full of snails after the usage (beer is also very attractive for snails). Not all killed by the poison of metaldehyde. So you need more of the poison, you have more snails and so on....This is the fooling of the industry which produces the baits since 80 years. The metaldehyde is not the problem, it works :-) it's the attractant. </p><p>Since the day I learned this, our garden was full of snails. Then we stopped using the poison and spend may evenings collecting snails. And we add some mechanical barrieres and a sand way around the garden and sort of electrical fences. No more problematic snail population.</p><p>Then we were in holidays and a friend live for some weeks in our house and he used again the poison, cause he found some snails. No problem pick them up and remove them, that's what we do, he use again slug bait). Argggggggg.... snails everywhere. So again weeks of collecting of those red salad killers :-) to free the garden.</p><p>BTW: There is a second problem: The metaldehyde kill all snails. There are a lot of snails around which does not eat you garden plants, they eat rotten leaves and similar things. They are also killed. </p><br><br>
pcoper2 - It is best not to let the slugs get in the raised bed at all. The fence, as described, has been pretty 100% effective as mentioned. No chemicals of any sort to worry about. Also, as you mentioned, metaldenhyde decomposes with sun and water and would therefore require upkeep. With the electric fence you can go away for weeks and not have to worry (about slugs that is).
My comment wasn't intended to be critical of the electric slug fence concept. Indeed, I think it's a good idea. However, there are people commenting here who apparently have a morbid fear of using <em>any</em> kinds of chemicals in their gardens, when some chemicals are quite safe and do not create persistent pollution of the soil.
<p>Metaldehyde is increadibly toxic to cats and other animals you may ave in your gaeden though.</p>
aje127 - Just too many to kill around here. Best thing is to redirect them, hopefully to weeds :).
I have been trying to find an effective deterrent for slugs without pouring more chemicals into the ground. Will definitely be trying this out in the spring. Going to try one bed with 9v and one with 12v to see if I can see a marked difference in the weed population around each box.
Use any snail and slug bait whose active ingredient is metaldehyde. Metaldehyde decomposes into harmless components in the environment and it is extremely effective in controlling snails and slugs.

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