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Want pure lomographic goodness with a pawn shop camera? Reload that funky Kodak Instamatic with 35mm film, and get the retro images you crave.
You could use a Holga or a Diana, but the almost pinhole camera Instamatic gives velvety cool photos.
Develop the film for US$1.49 at a local photo lab.
To reload you will need an Instamatic Kodapak cartridge. The best place to buy Instamatic film is The Frugal Photographer.
Special thanks to Mischa Koning of Kodak Classics, and David Francis of Instamatic Central for their excellent web sites.
This photo gear Instructable is about the mid-format 126 size still cameras. See my other Instructable Pocket Instamatic for the sub-miniature style still camera.
You could use a Holga or a Diana, but the almost pinhole camera Instamatic gives velvety cool photos.
Develop the film for US$1.49 at a local photo lab.
To reload you will need an Instamatic Kodapak cartridge. The best place to buy Instamatic film is The Frugal Photographer.
Special thanks to Mischa Koning of Kodak Classics, and David Francis of Instamatic Central for their excellent web sites.
This photo gear Instructable is about the mid-format 126 size still cameras. See my other Instructable Pocket Instamatic for the sub-miniature style still camera.
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Signing UpStep 1Cameras and Cartridges
The fastest way to get an Instamatic to reload is to ask your family and friends. Chances are someone has an Instamatic in a closet or drawer.
The most common models are the Kodak Instamatic 100, 104, the green Instamatic Hawkeye models, and the last of the line, the X-15 and X-15F. They are also the easiest to find online and in junk stores and yard sales. The Instamatic 500 is probably the coolest and best Kodak 126 camera ever made. Beautiful classic style, great German optics.
Many cameras still have an old Instamatic 126 cartridge in it you can reload.
Frugal Photographer sells the excellent Solaris brand 126 film.
Hold the cartridge and twist the ends gently. When you hear cracking, stop, check your progress and keep working at it until it falls apart.
The cartridge is sealed at the seams on the ends, but once the middle weld points are cracked, the ends usually open easily.
Some 126 cartridges are harder to open. For these, I use a thin flat screwdriver to pry the film cartridge apart.
It helps to start in the middle. There are two weld or glue spots on the bottom edge. Pry these first.
Do not worry about crooked seam cracks. You can use black tape to seal the cartridge after reloading it.
You can always use plastic model glue to repair any broken pieces.
Glue a short length of black backing paper to the inside of the cartridge back. This covers the film number window. It also helps keep the film tightly in place and gives more even reflection off the pressure plate.
The most common models are the Kodak Instamatic 100, 104, the green Instamatic Hawkeye models, and the last of the line, the X-15 and X-15F. They are also the easiest to find online and in junk stores and yard sales. The Instamatic 500 is probably the coolest and best Kodak 126 camera ever made. Beautiful classic style, great German optics.
Many cameras still have an old Instamatic 126 cartridge in it you can reload.
Frugal Photographer sells the excellent Solaris brand 126 film.
Hold the cartridge and twist the ends gently. When you hear cracking, stop, check your progress and keep working at it until it falls apart.
The cartridge is sealed at the seams on the ends, but once the middle weld points are cracked, the ends usually open easily.
Some 126 cartridges are harder to open. For these, I use a thin flat screwdriver to pry the film cartridge apart.
It helps to start in the middle. There are two weld or glue spots on the bottom edge. Pry these first.
Do not worry about crooked seam cracks. You can use black tape to seal the cartridge after reloading it.
You can always use plastic model glue to repair any broken pieces.
Glue a short length of black backing paper to the inside of the cartridge back. This covers the film number window. It also helps keep the film tightly in place and gives more even reflection off the pressure plate.
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The O-rings are still intact on my housing, even though it dates back to the late 60's / early 70's. Not sure how intact they are, tho... (won't be diving with it any time soon...)