1. Thin paper (it could be simple writable paper or journalistic paper, etc. We also need stiff cardboard.
2. Glue with sign DP 51/10 or likewise, also that it could be diluted with water.
3. Glue gun, which operating temperature is about 150�C and matching glue.
4. Kapron string (diameter about 1mm) thin but durable, also solid rubber.
5. Sea foam plate about 10mm thick.
6. Wooden sticks ~5x5 mm, ~20x1 mm.
7. Paper adhesive tape.
9. Enamel paint.
10. Steel wire (1.2mm diameter)
11. Polyethylene foam isolating pipes, for example ZZ 12/6.
12. Black shirt, pants, gloves made of thin but strong, tensile material.
13. Rider helmet.
14. Also these tools: pencil, thin marker, long ruler, calipers, knife, scissors, paintbrushes, threads, needle.
First, measure people, who will wear a costume- according these dimensions forms of bodies are made using hot glue, sea foam and wooden sticks. Do not forger to add at least 1.5-2 cm to linear dimensions to reach movement freedom and that warmer clothes will fit under costume. The best way is to cut body’s crosscut forms out of sea foam and glue them using wooden sticks. Glue wooden sticks to make as much triangles as possible where greater stability is needed. 5x5mm sticks are used to create stability and wider 20x1mm strings are used for outside of the body. Those wider strings have to be glued more densely, about every 10 cm that cardboard would not dent. Cut the forms off the foam and stick them between each other to make round parts.
To make exoskeleton we need legs, thighs, forearms, upper arms and waist forms. Cut pieces out from stiff cardboard. Those pieces have to be a little wider than needed exoskeleton area. Those pieces will be only a base on which composite material for the holding will be glued. Cardboard is put around forms and fixed with adhesive tape. Draw exoskeletons forms on that cardboard. Cut bands out off the cardboard and glue them on the round places (for example- shoulders) separately. When the base of costume is ready, you have to cut stripes (dimensions for one stripe- 20x50mm) out off thin paper, then prepare glue- it necessarily has to be a little watery, if it’s not- liquefy a bit. Then you can start to glue paper stripes. It is best to paint each stripe separately and then put it on the base, so that the form would become swollen much lessand get dry faster, also that the stripes would fit on the form better. Try to thoroughly press each stripe, herewith rub form with smooth round tool, for example- with hadle of knife or handle of wooden brush so that layers fit better and glue spead in thinner layers. Glue at least 4-5 layers of paper for the beginning and let them to get dry. After that irregular edges can be cut. Our exoskeleton also needs loops for fastening. To make that, in the distance of 2-3cm from the side of form cut gaps every 8-10 cm., push the kapron thread through those gaps and make about 2cm length loops in the inside of the form, those loops will be used to sew clothes down. When previous steps are done, repeat paper stripes‘ pasting, this time you will need to paste 3 layers. Try to glue first layer roundabout the loops as tight as you can, next layers paste pulling paper strings so that surface near loops wil get smooth. After doing that you could make this costume looking more robot like by creating a bas–relief. For this make paper pipes from paper glued in several layers, rolled up and cut in needed length. Then glue those pipes in any design you like. After pipes gets dry, glue at least 2-3 layers of paper stripes on them. In order to hide diversity of colours of previous layers under paint, it is best to glue the top layer with white paper or any one-coloured paper. Varnish or paint parts which are ready to make paper tough. After they get dry, scrub parts with sandpaper to smooth small bumps. If there are bumps after second painting, repeat the procedure. Paint the top layer any colour you like.
When making costume, do not forget to measure exoskeleton on body to make sure if there is not any mistake made. Get costume-wearers dressed in clothes on which the exoskeleton will be sewn. Put forms on their places and draw around them with chalk, soap or any marker you could see on clothes. After that cut polyethylene foam isolating pipes lengthwise in half. Take clothes off the costume-wearers and paste those pipes using hot glue on empty uncovered areas. Be careful- do not put too much glue, because polyethylene foam melts affected by hot glue. You can choose any way to paste pipes, but it is better to paste them across on flexible area (you can see example in the photos) that pipes could easily bend and did not rip. Before this, sew rubber at the waist- it will tighten clothes and make pipes fit nice. Thin ends of pipes so that it could lie under exoskeleton. After pasting pneumatic muscles imitation, it is advisable to glue strings of the same colour material by the edges, if pipes would not hide nice. So that epaulet exoskeleton would not go up when raising hands, it is necessary to widen armpits and sew or glue the same material in.
After preparing clothes, you can tie the exoskeleton up to them. Firstly, tie parts which will be covered by other parts. Each part is sewn with thick thread or rope between material and loops, which were made on the inside of the skeleton. You can lace them leaving long cut-off of threads to make lacing easier. After lacing, tighten threads so that parts of exoskeleton would move to each other and fit to the clothes. It is advisable to fuse ends and knots of thick thread with lighter in order to avoid knots breaking away. Make one knot of thread and fuse it right away and other- only when the part of exoskeleton is moved to its place. In the back of the waist it is good to make pleats just like crayfishes’ and other arthropods’. To make those pleats lie nice, tie their endways with each other up and hide the binding place under other epaulet. When back and chest parts of costume are ready cut sleeves along the back and chest contour parts off. Attach the remaining parts and epaulet on those separate sleeves. Do not forget that in the armpits the grey texture should be left to provide free movement for hands. This costume will be quit heavy, so in order to avoid shoulder ache, sew in area of shoulders foam or other softening in. Because of the weight, the shirt will get looser, especially after cutting of the sleeves, so sew strong ropes in (they will not let exoskeleton to slip off) on cut places of shirt. When sleeves are ready, you can join them between each other using strong rubbers. Rubbers should be pushed through under parts of back and chest. They will always hold shoulders and sleeves and also let move easily.
When the main costume parts are made, it is time to make hands and feet. Glue coloured pieces of cardboard on ordinary black gloves so that it appears that fingers consists of separate pleats. Make one more piece of material and paste the pipes on it, but only on the front, the most flexible area. On the rest part of the shoe put another exoskeleton, made according to the shape of the real shoe. Pneumatic muscles imitation and exoskeleton should be tied with each other up just like all costume. You can also make mask for head, but coloured rider helmet with painted eyes will also fit perfect.