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Step 3Solder parts on the back of the board
Solder parts on the back of the board first.
Start with the processor. The best way to solder the processor is to first add a bit of solder to the pad at pin 1 on the board. Next place the part over the solder pads and align it horizontally and vertically. Once all the pads and pins match, touch the soldering iron to pin one. This will melt the solder thats on the pad and hold the processor in place.
Check alignment again - it must be fairly precise. Next, touch the soldering iron to pad 16, heat it, and feed a small bit of solder. Now that two corners are attached, work your way around the processor soldering each pin. If you end up with solder balls (bridges between pins), see step 5 of this instructable - it gives some tips in how to fix this problem.
Next solder the DAC (u5) in place. Use the same technique as you used on the processor - apply solder to one pad, align, fix, and then solder the rest of the pins.
The power regulator is the next part. Note that the power regulator and the DAC look identical. The packaging for the voltage regulator will be marked with a 'V' and the DAC will have a 'D'. If they're not in their packaging, the DAC is marked with the letters ADMW.
After the power regulator is soldered, we'll finish the power supply part of the board. Solder C2 next - it's the ceramic 470 pf capacitor. Install C1 and C5, they're 1 uf tantalum capacitors. Note that C2 does not have any orientation requirements, but C1 and C5 do have to be placed with the stripe on the positive side of the power supply. You'll see '+' signs under the solder mask - align the stripes on the caps with the '+' signs.
The resistors are next. There is no orientation requirements for the resistors, they can go on any direction.
Solder on R1 and R2. They're the 2k ohm terminating resistors for the serial network. Same procedure, put solder on one pad, place the part, align, melt, and then solder the other side.
Solder R3,R4,R5 in the middle of the board. These are 1k ohm current limiting resistors.
Now you'll want to solder the optoisolator onto the board. You'll need to be careful with the orientation of this part. In the picture below, you'll see pin 1 in the upper-left corner of the white part. It's denoted with a small circle under the solder mask. On the optoisolator, you'll notice that one edge is beveled. The beveled side is the same side that has pin 1, so put the beveled side on the left. Solder the part using the same technique we've been using.
Place the 6 pin programming header into the board and flip it over to solder. The header should face the back of the board, but needs to be soldered from the front side. Heat each pin until you get good flow of solder into the joint.
Place the 2.5mm jack into the board and again flip it over to solder. There's 4 pins that must be soldered.
Finally, solder the phototransistor in place. The leads on the phototransistor must be bent 90 degrees. First, feed the leads of the transistor through the board and make sure the flat edge matches the picture in the silkscreen on the other side of the board. Once it's correctly aligned, bend the leads 90 degrees about 3mm from the base of the phototransistor. Solder the part in place.
Start with the processor. The best way to solder the processor is to first add a bit of solder to the pad at pin 1 on the board. Next place the part over the solder pads and align it horizontally and vertically. Once all the pads and pins match, touch the soldering iron to pin one. This will melt the solder thats on the pad and hold the processor in place.
Check alignment again - it must be fairly precise. Next, touch the soldering iron to pad 16, heat it, and feed a small bit of solder. Now that two corners are attached, work your way around the processor soldering each pin. If you end up with solder balls (bridges between pins), see step 5 of this instructable - it gives some tips in how to fix this problem.
Next solder the DAC (u5) in place. Use the same technique as you used on the processor - apply solder to one pad, align, fix, and then solder the rest of the pins.
The power regulator is the next part. Note that the power regulator and the DAC look identical. The packaging for the voltage regulator will be marked with a 'V' and the DAC will have a 'D'. If they're not in their packaging, the DAC is marked with the letters ADMW.
After the power regulator is soldered, we'll finish the power supply part of the board. Solder C2 next - it's the ceramic 470 pf capacitor. Install C1 and C5, they're 1 uf tantalum capacitors. Note that C2 does not have any orientation requirements, but C1 and C5 do have to be placed with the stripe on the positive side of the power supply. You'll see '+' signs under the solder mask - align the stripes on the caps with the '+' signs.
The resistors are next. There is no orientation requirements for the resistors, they can go on any direction.
Solder on R1 and R2. They're the 2k ohm terminating resistors for the serial network. Same procedure, put solder on one pad, place the part, align, melt, and then solder the other side.
Solder R3,R4,R5 in the middle of the board. These are 1k ohm current limiting resistors.
Now you'll want to solder the optoisolator onto the board. You'll need to be careful with the orientation of this part. In the picture below, you'll see pin 1 in the upper-left corner of the white part. It's denoted with a small circle under the solder mask. On the optoisolator, you'll notice that one edge is beveled. The beveled side is the same side that has pin 1, so put the beveled side on the left. Solder the part using the same technique we've been using.
Place the 6 pin programming header into the board and flip it over to solder. The header should face the back of the board, but needs to be soldered from the front side. Heat each pin until you get good flow of solder into the joint.
Place the 2.5mm jack into the board and again flip it over to solder. There's 4 pins that must be soldered.
Finally, solder the phototransistor in place. The leads on the phototransistor must be bent 90 degrees. First, feed the leads of the transistor through the board and make sure the flat edge matches the picture in the silkscreen on the other side of the board. Once it's correctly aligned, bend the leads 90 degrees about 3mm from the base of the phototransistor. Solder the part in place.
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