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Step 8Case assembly
The board attaches to the front panel of the case with 5 screws.
Feed 4-40 screws through all 5 screw holes. Slide a 5mm spacer onto each screw. Add an additional 3mm spacer to the single screw on the bottom of the case front.
Clip the leads on the 4 LEDs and place them into the button holes in the case. Note, from now on, you need to keep the case face-down, or the LED's will fall out. Once the board is secured, the LED's will be captured and stay in place.
Mate the board and the case. The critical part here is to go SLOW. Place the board/LCD into the case so that the nuts on the top screws are behind the LCD and the screws are sitting loosely in the 1/2 moon cutouts in the LCD board.
Now, feed the middle screws through the board and LCD - you'll need to screw them in - the space is tight on purpose so that the screws engage in the boards as they pass through. Tighten these two screws slowly, alternating back and forth so the board/LCD comes down even. Be careful that the pushbuttons (LED's) don't fall out, and make sure the red LED goes into it's hole. As the board comes down, make sure the single screw at the bottom of the case goes through the hole in the board.
Once the center screws are snug (do NOT overtighten), check the whole unit for alignment. Before things are tightened, it's possible to push it around so that it lines up square and straight. Put a nut on the single screw, and tighten it. Finally, hold the upper screws into the 1/2 moon cutouts in the LCD, and tighten these as well.
Now, there's a bit more soldering to do.
First, strip about 1" from the end of the 2' cable. Strip each wire about 1/8". Tin both wires and the shield wire. Put a small 'L' in the end of the shield wire. Solder the wires to the board as shown in the picture below. Use the tie-wrap to attach the wire to the board assembly. This will act as a strain relief. Feed the wire through the hole in the bottom of the case.
Feed the power wire through the switch hole in the side of the case. Solder a wire on each tab of the power switch. Insert the power switch into the case.
Now, you're ready to close the case. The trick here is that you have to rotate the case lid into position. Put the top on the case at an angle such that the phototransistor and 2.5mm connector are aligned with their holes in the case. Push down and rotate the case lid such that the pt and connector push into position and the case lid shuts cleanly onto the case. Install the 4 case screws.
Finally, the 2.5mm stereo plug must be soldered onto the cable. The very first thing you need to do is slide the plug cover onto the cable. I'm not going to tell you the number of times I've soldered something twice because I forgot this step.
The wiring of the plug is simple. The shield goes to the clip, the black goes to the tip, and the red goes to the middle band. This means if you're looking at the plug - with the strain relief on the left and the tip on the right, you should land the wires Shield, Black, Red.
A tip here: The chrome coating on the plug is nearly impossible to get solder to stick. Take some sandpaper and rough up each solder point - there's brass underneath the chrome - sand until you see the brass and your connections will be much stronger.
Once the wires are soldered, crimp the strain relief and slide the cover over the plug, screwing it in place to secure.
Feed 4-40 screws through all 5 screw holes. Slide a 5mm spacer onto each screw. Add an additional 3mm spacer to the single screw on the bottom of the case front.
Clip the leads on the 4 LEDs and place them into the button holes in the case. Note, from now on, you need to keep the case face-down, or the LED's will fall out. Once the board is secured, the LED's will be captured and stay in place.
Mate the board and the case. The critical part here is to go SLOW. Place the board/LCD into the case so that the nuts on the top screws are behind the LCD and the screws are sitting loosely in the 1/2 moon cutouts in the LCD board.
Now, feed the middle screws through the board and LCD - you'll need to screw them in - the space is tight on purpose so that the screws engage in the boards as they pass through. Tighten these two screws slowly, alternating back and forth so the board/LCD comes down even. Be careful that the pushbuttons (LED's) don't fall out, and make sure the red LED goes into it's hole. As the board comes down, make sure the single screw at the bottom of the case goes through the hole in the board.
Once the center screws are snug (do NOT overtighten), check the whole unit for alignment. Before things are tightened, it's possible to push it around so that it lines up square and straight. Put a nut on the single screw, and tighten it. Finally, hold the upper screws into the 1/2 moon cutouts in the LCD, and tighten these as well.
Now, there's a bit more soldering to do.
First, strip about 1" from the end of the 2' cable. Strip each wire about 1/8". Tin both wires and the shield wire. Put a small 'L' in the end of the shield wire. Solder the wires to the board as shown in the picture below. Use the tie-wrap to attach the wire to the board assembly. This will act as a strain relief. Feed the wire through the hole in the bottom of the case.
Feed the power wire through the switch hole in the side of the case. Solder a wire on each tab of the power switch. Insert the power switch into the case.
Now, you're ready to close the case. The trick here is that you have to rotate the case lid into position. Put the top on the case at an angle such that the phototransistor and 2.5mm connector are aligned with their holes in the case. Push down and rotate the case lid such that the pt and connector push into position and the case lid shuts cleanly onto the case. Install the 4 case screws.
Finally, the 2.5mm stereo plug must be soldered onto the cable. The very first thing you need to do is slide the plug cover onto the cable. I'm not going to tell you the number of times I've soldered something twice because I forgot this step.
The wiring of the plug is simple. The shield goes to the clip, the black goes to the tip, and the red goes to the middle band. This means if you're looking at the plug - with the strain relief on the left and the tip on the right, you should land the wires Shield, Black, Red.
A tip here: The chrome coating on the plug is nearly impossible to get solder to stick. Take some sandpaper and rough up each solder point - there's brass underneath the chrome - sand until you see the brass and your connections will be much stronger.
Once the wires are soldered, crimp the strain relief and slide the cover over the plug, screwing it in place to secure.
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Dec 7, 2009. 6:30 AMzphaze
says:
Just finished building this kit and I must say that Peter did an excellent job. This little intervalometer works great with my Canon G11. I guess it uses the same plug configuration as the Canon Rebel. I dig the backlit LCD screen. That was a bit of a surprise.
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