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Me and a friend got tired of being bored and we don't have money to go out so we decided to build a go kart from scratch using materials we found around the shop. We custom built every single part on this go kart, from the steering to the brakes. This project took 3 days and at a total cost of $0.
 
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Step 1: Materials

What you will need:
Square/Round tubing for frame and support
Seat
Steering wheel
Flat stock
Round rod
Assorted bolts
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SDAREW says: Jun 11, 2013. 8:40 PM
doodles in my bum hole its very nice and i like it in the vegina hole to my daddy does it to me all the time as well
kyle_is_bored says: Mar 8, 2013. 2:07 PM
follow me plz plz plz plZ hehe LOL
kyle_is_bored says: Mar 8, 2013. 2:06 PM
awesome job but needs more defence
rhys25690811234 says: Mar 8, 2013. 12:28 PM
thanx, please follow me did you say you need pedals oe a gas tank or even how to link and connect this stuff??
rhys25690811234 says: Mar 8, 2013. 1:19 AM
is it electric
sco_oter (author) in reply to rhys25690811234Mar 8, 2013. 5:34 AM
no its gas
rhys25690811234 says: Mar 8, 2013. 12:55 AM
is it electric
holdens_can_suck_it says: Jan 17, 2013. 11:36 PM
Hi when you say, add a clutch what happens right now with out a clutch?
cchartré-bouchard says: Jan 10, 2013. 2:46 PM
What measures are in centimeters

Nice go kart
toxictwin says: Dec 28, 2012. 9:33 AM
Awesome job,
yayo23 says: Oct 30, 2012. 4:11 PM
well as i know you said you used parts around the shop but what did you get your parts off to make your frame
sco_oter (author) in reply to yayo23Oct 31, 2012. 6:51 PM
The frame was cut from square tubing from behind the shop
jamob says: Jul 30, 2012. 8:14 PM
how well does it work>
mahdisamiei says: Jul 18, 2012. 10:14 PM
it`s very good
yholiyat says: Jul 10, 2012. 1:27 PM
Very awesome project, me and my friend are doing this over the summer and we hope i works out. But can you post any videos or links to videos of you riding it, just for a little engorgement and taste of it.

Very awesome and thank you!
Litewatefitr says: Apr 26, 2012. 5:01 PM
Very cool, man. Impressive build. Would you be willing to send me your plans? I also have a bunch of steel laying around and just picked up a welder... I'm itching to let 'er rip. thanks! Have a good one!
Hippymike96 says: Apr 19, 2012. 4:04 PM
Is there welding?
goldenshuttle says: Apr 14, 2012. 3:21 AM
Great work indeed; and it looks almost as good as company made I give u thumbs up.
ak3580 says: Mar 31, 2012. 7:45 PM
where did you get your base model ????????????

sco_oter (author) in reply to ak3580Apr 1, 2012. 8:53 AM
We googled racing kart frames and searched till we found one we liked.
garytoast in reply to sco_oterApr 3, 2012. 5:24 AM
How is it free then?
sco_oter (author) in reply to garytoastApr 3, 2012. 10:14 AM
Its free because i didn't buy anything for this project.
garytoast in reply to sco_oterApr 8, 2012. 6:57 AM
So you made the frame
sco_oter (author) in reply to garytoastApr 8, 2012. 7:26 AM
I made everything on the go kart except the engine, wheels, and steering wheel and those i salvaged from two mini likes, an edger, and my car.
jcksparr0w says: Apr 6, 2012. 11:43 AM
Thanks for this. i now know what i need to do to my frame to make the steering work!!! Thanks again!
Noodles For Free says: Apr 4, 2012. 10:30 PM
I just wanted to say that you have a seat and asorted bolts in the materials list but no wheels! This is a new turn of events in the mobility world. Grab the balloons! we're going up!

just kidding though. cool project
Phil B says: Mar 24, 2012. 3:17 PM
Do you think there is a weight limit for the rider? If so, what do you think it would be? It appears from the flux dust that you did not use a MIG welder, but either a flux core wire feed welder or a stick welder. Which did you use?

This is a nice project that should provide much enjoyment for a long time. Thank you for sharing it.
sco_oter (author) in reply to Phil BMar 24, 2012. 4:34 PM
I believe the weight limit is around 200lbs. I used a cheap walmart stick welder. It would support more weight if I had a better welder. Thanks for your reply.
Phil B in reply to sco_oterMar 24, 2012. 7:35 PM
I noticed the drawing of the pattern you used as a starting point and saw that there was an extra angled 1" x !" brace on each side that would add strength where the front half of the frame is welded to the back half, but you did not use those in your build. I was wondering if the frame would have a little less strength to support weight because those angled braces are not included.

In my limited experience it is not easy to get a good weld on square tubing when using a stick welder. It is very easy to burn a hole, especially when making what amounts to a "T" joint.

Thanks for your response.
sco_oter (author) in reply to Phil BMar 25, 2012. 12:19 AM
I changed that angled piece to be parallel with the front/back of the kart so the seat had something to weld to. I had my friend do all the welding and he's a certified welder and we didn't burn any holes in the metal. I have tried welding square tubing with a stick welder before and I burned holes in it everywhere but this tubing was 3x thicker than the tubing I was welding on so it was less prone to burn through.
Phil B in reply to sco_oterMar 25, 2012. 4:07 AM
I had a project made of 1" square tubing. The tubing had fairly thin "normal" walls. Many of my joints were "T" joints. The end of the one piece would melt away with relatively little heat, but the linear side of the other piece required much more heat to weld. I used 1/16" electrodes at around 60-65 amps. I tried to keep most of the arc on the linear side of the one piece and tried to weave over onto the end of the other piece just enough to make a good weld, but not enough to make it blow a hole. Part of the trick was starting the arc. When I had the welder current high enough to start an arc, it was too high to weld without blowing holes. When I had the welder current dialed back where I did not blow holes so easily, it was very hard to start an arc. (I was using a Miller Thunderbolt with an infinitely adjustable crank wheel, not a welder like a Lincoln "tombstone" where settings click in with no fine adjustment between settings.) This is an old trick I read when I first got a welder and helped me keep the welding current lower while still starting an arc easily.
rimar2000 in reply to Phil BMar 25, 2012. 8:23 AM
Phil, I am now using a method I invented: because the electronic mask allows me to use both hands, I add a black iron wire like an additional electrode, like in Oxy-Aceltylene welding. That trick allows me to weld relatively thin sheet or tubes, without holes. Two weeks ago I picked a little carousel from the street, carried it to my home and fixed it some rotten iron parts and reinforced the weldings. Now it is at one of my granddaughters's home, she is very happy.
Phil B in reply to rimar2000Mar 25, 2012. 2:52 PM
I do not believe you have an oxy-acetylene torch, so you must mean that you hold the wire in the puddle made by your electrode. Clever.
rimar2000 in reply to Phil BMar 26, 2012. 5:39 AM
Yes, it is so as you say. I put the black wire over the sheet to weld or the hole to fill, and then start the arc on it. When the wire melt, I push it until the welding or filling is accomplished, then cut the wire with the arc. Pulling a little when it is clear red, is enough sometimes. I have used different thickness, 1 thru 6 mm, successfully, depending on the thickness of the piece. To fill holes, always is better perform little tacks, allowing the iron to harden for a split second before restarting the arc. Otherwise, the hole enlarges.
profpat in reply to rimar2000Mar 30, 2012. 8:42 PM
rimar.

kumusta usted?

i made a small electric arc welding machine from 2 scrap microwave ovens transformer for my tnin sheets works.. i still make holes, what is your electronic welding mask?

gracias, via con dios!
rimar2000 in reply to profpatMar 31, 2012. 10:16 AM
Here is very difficult to get scrap transformers, people does not throw them to the waste.

My welding mask is like this: https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRQrdk4dZGMQaBwafjOB25fPiyrBszlk2A7WQ4BjqPKOYq5lqGxZQ
Phil B in reply to sco_oterMar 25, 2012. 3:38 AM
Thank you. The extra thickness of the tubing explains a lot. Perhaps you mentioned that and I overlooked it.
profpat says: Mar 30, 2012. 8:39 PM
nice project,

I did build a similar one like this years ago, i mounted a 5hp Briggs and Straton one cylinder 4 stroke engine used for general purpose agriculture, since i did not use any clutch system but direct chain drive to the rear wheels(like yours), once you do a full stop, the engine dies, i had to modify the drive chain to a belt type system, with a third pulley acting as a clutch, when never i tighten the slack of the belt with a lever mechanism the carts rear wheels engage to the engine..hope i can still find the drawing i made..
sconner1 says: Mar 30, 2012. 6:47 PM
Looks like you'll have to push-start the engine without a centrifugal clutch or torque converter.
sconner1 says: Mar 30, 2012. 6:42 PM
Dude. back off.
This is home made fun, not a competitive racing kart.
Great job guys.
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