Step 10: Final product

After building this go kart there are some things that I would have different if I had the material. I would have made the rear axle solid all the way across so it would be stronger. I would have designed the pedal location better, we didn't think about pedals when doing the steering components. Future upgrades include a bigger engine with a clutch and maybe a transmission so we can shift it. I turned out pretty good for being hand built from whatever we could find. We tested it by jumping on it and dropping it and it seems pretty strong. After everything was completed I painted it all black.
Amazing right an about to start making mind
<p>good work bro.keep it up</p>
I do want to put the gas pedal on the steering wheel
is it electric
no its gas
Nice go kart and can you give me the measurements
Nice go kart and can you give me the measurements so I can try to build one cause they are awesome and beast
<p>i want to put the gas pedal on the steering wheel.</p><p>It's that possible?</p><p>(I want to make it off-road)</p>
Why would you need measurements ? This is clearly a build it with what you have instructable. Nice job for a first attempt.:) a axel and a clutch and your good to go!
Can u give me all the measurements please??
<p>did he give you the prints i just need the prints for the frame.</p>
<p>thinking of making it could u please give me the measurments for it.</p>
<p>i am a sing a song about big fat butts wiggle wiggle</p>
<p>could you plz put the measurments up</p>
if anyone wanted a 3d model kinda like this heres a link. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=d9895bc7987350404b7a1ae91a584f32
wat r the measurement
dimension frame plz
Could you possibly send me the dimensions to your kart?
follow me plz plz plz plZ hehe LOL <br>
awesome job but needs more defence
thanx, please follow me did you say you need pedals oe a gas tank or even how to link and connect this stuff??
Hi when you say, add a clutch what happens right now with out a clutch?
What measures are in centimeters <br> <br>Nice go kart
Awesome job,
well as i know you said you used parts around the shop but what did you get your parts off to make your frame
The frame was cut from square tubing from behind the shop
how well does it work&gt;
it`s very good
Very awesome project, me and my friend are doing this over the summer and we hope i works out. But can you post any videos or links to videos of you riding it, just for a little engorgement and taste of it. <br> <br>Very awesome and thank you!
Very cool, man. Impressive build. Would you be willing to send me your plans? I also have a bunch of steel laying around and just picked up a welder... I'm itching to let 'er rip. thanks! Have a good one!
Is there welding?
Great work indeed; and it looks almost as good as company made I give u thumbs up.
where did you get your base model ????????????<br> <br>
We googled racing kart frames and searched till we found one we liked.
How is it free then?<br>
Its free because i didn't buy anything for this project.
So you made the frame<br>
I made everything on the go kart except the engine, wheels, and steering wheel and those i salvaged from two mini likes, an edger, and my car.
Thanks for this. i now know what i need to do to my frame to make the steering work!!! Thanks again!
I just wanted to say that you have a seat and asorted bolts in the materials list but no wheels! This is a new turn of events in the mobility world. Grab the balloons! we're going up!<br><br>just kidding though. cool project
Do you think there is a weight limit for the rider? If so, what do you think it would be? It appears from the flux dust that you did not use a MIG welder, but either a flux core wire feed welder or a stick welder. Which did you use?<br><br>This is a nice project that should provide much enjoyment for a long time. Thank you for sharing it.
I believe the weight limit is around 200lbs. I used a cheap walmart stick welder. It would support more weight if I had a better welder. Thanks for your reply.
I noticed the drawing of the pattern you used as a starting point and saw that there was an extra angled 1&quot; x !&quot; brace on each side that would add strength where the front half of the frame is welded to the back half, but you did not use those in your build. I was wondering if the frame would have a little less strength to support weight because those angled braces are not included.<br><br>In my limited experience it is not easy to get a good weld on square tubing when using a stick welder. It is very easy to burn a hole, especially when making what amounts to a &quot;T&quot; joint. <br><br>Thanks for your response.
I changed that angled piece to be parallel with the front/back of the kart so the seat had something to weld to. I had my friend do all the welding and he's a certified welder and we didn't burn any holes in the metal. I have tried welding square tubing with a stick welder before and I burned holes in it everywhere but this tubing was 3x thicker than the tubing I was welding on so it was less prone to burn through.
I had a project made of 1&quot; square tubing. The tubing had fairly thin &quot;normal&quot; walls. Many of my joints were &quot;T&quot; joints. The end of the one piece would melt away with relatively little heat, but the linear side of the other piece required much more heat to weld. I used 1/16&quot; electrodes at around 60-65 amps. I tried to keep most of the arc on the linear side of the one piece and tried to weave over onto the end of the other piece just enough to make a good weld, but not enough to make it blow a hole. Part of the trick was starting the arc. When I had the welder current high enough to start an arc, it was too high to weld without blowing holes. When I had the welder current dialed back where I did not blow holes so easily, it was very hard to start an arc. (I was using a Miller Thunderbolt with an infinitely adjustable crank wheel, not a welder like a Lincoln &quot;tombstone&quot; where settings click in with no fine adjustment between settings.) <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Strike-an-arc-exactly-where-you-want-it-to-begin-/" rel="nofollow">This is an old trick</a> I read when I first got a welder and helped me keep the welding current lower while still starting an arc easily.
Phil, I am now using a method I invented: because the electronic mask allows me to use both hands, I add a black iron wire like an additional electrode, like in Oxy-Aceltylene welding. That trick allows me to weld relatively thin sheet or tubes, without holes. Two weeks ago I picked a <a href="https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQLmPEpdkjsiruXHHGdBQHT7a_uRVTCz8J7jCYYm8Pt3_MLyImj" rel="nofollow">little carousel</a> from the street, carried it to my home and fixed it some rotten iron parts and reinforced the weldings. Now it is at one of my granddaughters's home, she is very happy.
I do not believe you have an oxy-acetylene torch, so you must mean that you hold the wire in the puddle made by your electrode. Clever.
Yes, it is so as you say. I put the black wire over the sheet to weld or the hole to fill, and then start the arc on it. When the wire melt, I push it until the welding or filling is accomplished, then cut the wire with the arc. Pulling a little when it is clear red, is enough sometimes. I have used different thickness, 1 thru 6 mm, successfully, depending on the thickness of the piece. To fill holes, always is better perform little tacks, allowing the iron to harden for a split second before restarting the arc. Otherwise, the hole enlarges.
rimar.<br><br>kumusta usted?<br><br>i made a small electric arc welding machine from 2 scrap microwave ovens transformer for my tnin sheets works.. i still make holes, what is your electronic welding mask?<br><br>gracias, via con dios!

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