This is my first instructable. Please let me know of any necessary improvements to ensure that it can be well understood by all readers.
Tsuro is a game for 2-8 players. Players take turns placing tiles on the board. These tiles have four pathways interconnecting eight points around their perimeter. Game playends when only one player remains on the board as all other players' paths have led them off of the board. More detailed instructions can be found here.
The purpose of this project was to design and build a more durable, aesthetically pleasing and personalized version of the original. This instructable will demonstrate how to go about creating this game yourself.
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Step 1: Supplies
3 - 4'x3"x1/4" ----- (~10 linear feet of wood for tiles)
so much for box
Save scrap for border
Scrap for pawns/dragons
Small can of stain
General shop equipment (Saws, sander, etc.)
Safety equipment (glasses, gloves, etc.)
Please use caution while working with wood. Saw blades are sharp, and they spin fast! The wood burner gets hot ; it can, and will burn you! If you are unsure of your safety, err on the side of caution!
Step 2: Cutting Tiles
I ripped enough boards for 36 tiles ~ 9 linear feet. These were ripped at the 3" width.
The chop saw was rigged to cut all tiles to 3" length. [image 1]
36 tiles were cut: 35 unique tiles with paths, and one ''dragon tile.' The dragon tile is explained in the included link. For simplicity, I left it blank. I am no artist, and my dragon drawing would look like a cloud or rock instead.
Step 3: Blazing the Trail
The included document [image 4], with all tiles drawn out, was used for reference only. I set up a piece of wood to equally mark the path ends on each tile. [Image 2]
I planned the paths to be equal distance from the next, whether on the same tile or adjacent. By this, I mean that the distance from one line to the next was twice the distance from one line to the edge of the tile. I would advise against this after some actually game play, because it confuses new players when they try to place the tiles in the wrong spot... Instead, I would move them slightly closer to or farther from each other; this way, their can be no confusing the possible placement of the tiles. The sample document shows them closer together.
Once all tiles' path edges were marked, the sample tiles were reproduced in pencil. [image 3]
Some problem tiles came up where two paths crossed in a manner which was difficult to discern appropriate path. [image 5]
Once all paths were traced out, burning of the paths began. [image 1]
This is how I did this, but I would suggest to trace out 5, then burn those. This way, your time spent using the wood burner is much shorter at a time: a bit of information I would have loved to know! My hand was dry, cracking and yellow by the end of each burning session. It took a week to get all of the yellow out and get rid of the cracking. Perhaps gloves? Ah, forethought, where were you?
Step 4: Borders
I cut these into 9" strips. Lines were traced around each strip at each potential starting point by laying three tiles side by side and marking paths. [image 1] These traces must then be burned.
These strips are now used to trace out the border of the game board. With these peices, the entire game can fit into an enclosure much smaller than the original box.
Step 5: Dragons
I cut small chunks from the strips. I sanded them down to different shapes. [image]
Players can now choose from, rounded triangle, pointy triangle, or the ever famous, rectangle!
Step 6: Sand and Stain
I then used a can of stain we had laying around, but I wish I had used something much lighter now. The burnt paths and the stain are still of a great enough contrast to easily discern, but I feel they'd look better otherwise. [image]
Step 7: Enclosure
I designed the enclosure to fit all of the tiles, borders and a gap in the front for the dragons.
The dimensions are:
Front: 3 3/4" X 3 3/8"
Back: 3 3/4" X 3 3/4"
2 Sides: 11" X 3 3/4"
Top: 3 1/2" X 10 7/8"
Bottom: 3 1/2" X 10 3/4"
With everything cut to size, the four sides were then notched to provide a channel for the lid to slide and for the bottom to lock in.
These channels were cut < 1/8" (Blade width) wide and about 1/8" deep. They were cut about 1/8" from the edge
On one side of each side piece, a notch was cut to give the lid a resting location. [image 2] This was done by hand with a chisel, as it was a small notch.
The bottom was notched by 1/8" X 1/8" around the entire perimeter. [image 3]
The top was cut similarly, but not along one short edge and only up to 3/8" from the end. [image 4] This allows the lid to slide into place, but not show the notch when closed.
The four sides were cut at a 45° angle on both ends.
Stain all wood prior to assembly.
The four sides and bottom were then glued together by running a bead of glue through the channels and edges and clamping together. Slide lid in place to ensure proper shape of box **Do not glue lid!
Once dry, the lid was removed. Edges were sanded smooth. Gaps were puttied and sanded when dry again. Some touch up staining was done where sanded and puttied.
Rubbing a bar of soap along the edge will act as a wood 'lubricant' Mine, with much sanding slid very well, with no need for soap.
A hole could be placed on he lid to act as a handle to ease opening. Mine slides very easily, so I saw no need.
Step 8: Enjoy
Step 9: Final Thoughts
-Move paths inward or outward for distinguishable correct placement [image 2]
-Add a hole or handle of some sort on the sliding lid to ensure the enclosure can open if it becomes jammed
-Improve dragons with use of lathe.