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Switch ON/OFF any home appliances with the help of IR Remote. Upto 16A depending upon Relay ratings.

Step 1: Parts Required

3way Terminal block x 3
Schrack SPDT 16A 24VDC Relay x 3
1N4148 Diode x 3
BC547 Transistor x 3
3way Berg strip x 1
10KOhms Resistor x 5
470Ohms Resistor x 5
5mm LED x 3
3mm LED x 1
TSOP 1738 x 1
LM7805 IC x 1 (+ its filter parts - 470microfarad 50V electrolytic capacitor, 10nanofarad ceramic capacitor x 2, heatsink if necessary)
LM7824 IC x 1 (+ its filter parts - 2200microfarad 50V electrolytic capacitor, 330nanofarad ceramic capacitor, 100nanofarad ceramic capacitor )
Programmed PIC12F629 IC (Program Included)
8Pin IC Holder
240VAC to 24VDC 1A Adaptor + its female
A strip board to accommodate above
A Plastic Box to accommodate above + small screws and nuts
SONY REMOTE

Step 2: Programming IC + Hex File

Important part is to program the IC.

Use pickit2 or pic serial programmer to code the 'kumir.HEX' file into the IC.

Simple step, if you are in doubt here, give it to some electronics project shop and program it.

File Link - https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=5CED783880498823!141&authkey=!ABWOY6Cobjm8T1M


Step 3: Breadboarding

Use schematic and breadboard and feel the output.

Here used LM7824 to get 24VDC for steady driving of the relay.

Here used some spare relays and berg strip replaced by a push switch for testing in breadboard.

Step 4: Stripboarding

This is totally of soldering skills and the layout is of own taste. 

Find the pictures.

Insert jumper and configure for any 3 button on any SONY REMOTE.
3 buttons will be stored in the IC, use it for switching the appliance.
Remove the jumper and use the appliance.

Step 5: 240VAC Circuiting

In order to function in both relay and switch, replace normal SPST switch to SPDT i.e Two way switch, for the appliance.
so when 24V adaptor is switched off the appliance will toggle ON of OFF, so that case it can also be operated by SPDT switch.

-Kumaran
kua201@gmail.com
Sir is there any problem with replacing pic12f629 with 675<br>
It should work, do compare the datasheets.<br>Post if you have any issues.
<p>I made it...</p><p>Any interested can go through the following link.</p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Switching-Appliances-Using-Ir-Remote/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Switching-Applianc...</a></p>
<p>Can I upload program with the help of Arduino into PIC12F629 IC</p>
<p>Try your luck....will let you know once if I try too. Works fine with pickit2</p>
<p>Hi, big thanks to Kumaran</p><p>I've completed this project and works as it is supposed to.</p><p>Although assembling all components on perforated board was kinda impossible to me , I used eagle cad to make the board and also I would like to share it.</p><p>Link:</p><p><a href="http://www.mediafire.com/download/ms2hcmhf787je33/IR_remote_control.zip" rel="nofollow">http://www.mediafire.com/download/ms2hcmhf787je33/...</a></p><p>Note: I am new to eagle cad, if there is any mistake I apologize. I made pcb using same file and it's working fine. Also you will have to change schematic depending upon relay ratings ( I used 5A SPDT relay)</p>
Cool.....nice pcb too<br><br>Chk out https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Complete-Smart-Home/ for automation through mobile wifi.
Kamran i need daigram plz
<p>These circuit diagrams are not help full for me can u send me another diagram please ??</p>
Dear kumir<br>I havw made this project but its not working<br>When i insert jumper so 7 ni led is gone lit and 3 mm led starts blinking.<br>Can you help me out that where is fault<br>
Hi, I'm doing a kind of similar project, but I'm using Bluetooth and my circuitry is different. But you are putting a 24 volt regulator in series with the rest of your board while your power supply outputs 24 volts. A regulator always has a certain dropout voltage, that's the voltage it will consume for it self, independent of the power supply. You won't get a steady 24 volt out of the regulator if you measure it, but probably something like 22 volt (not that your relays care, they have a certain margin of a couple of volts). But I suggest you remove the 24 volt regulator, because it doesn't improve your power supplies stability or anything. <br> <br>The rest looks good ;) <br> <br>Thom
<p>Yes will do that, and do share you bluetooth coding and schematic if you feel so. Thanks</p>
<p>Yeah, I made it a quite some time ago, in my early days of programming. The program is not rocket science, but if you PM me with your email I'll mail the code to you. Back then I didn't make schematics of things, so I don't have the schematic of it, but it was something like: a BJT transistor being driven by the Arduino, and the transistor was switching the low side of the relay coil, other side of the coil was tied to 12V (12V relay). If you have a problem, just message me, I'm studying Electronics Engineering, so I'll probably be able to help ;)</p><p>Thom</p>
Another suggestion to make it safer: on the &quot;high&quot; voltage side of your board, remove the unused copper &quot;islands&quot; with a drill. I don't mean put a huge electric drill on it, but get a metal drill sized about 4/5 mm and with your hand, scrape of the copper islands. <br>That will reduce the change of possible arcing with an inductive load. (and possibly catching fire)
PLZ SEND HEX TO FOLLOWING MAIL ID murugabi07@yahoo.com

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