Since I use a ghetto headphone amp with my ipod, I only need a 3.5 mm jack to come out of my ipod and plug into the amp. If you want your headphones to plug straight into your ipod then you'll also need a female to female 3.5 mm stereo adapter.
WARNING! You are about to void your ipod's warranty. I accept no liability for damages caused in following this instructable.
Step 1: Requirements
2) One pair of broken headphones to steal the jack from.
3) Fine tipped soldering iron.
4) Thin, rosin cored electronics solder (optional).
5) A steady hand (mandatory).
6) Multimeter (optional).
7) Nail varnish (optional).
8) Small round file (optional).
9) 3.5mm female to female stereo adapter (optional).
Step 2: The Headphone Daughterboard
I used a multimeter to work out which solder joints were Ground, Left and Right connections. Using a set of permanent fineliners, I colour coded each of them so I would not forget which was which.
See the picture for the solder points to use.
Step 3: Headphone Butchery
This is because the very ends of the wires have already been "tinned" and soldered at the factory. Experience tells that trying to solder cut headphone wire of the cheap variety is difficult at best because it is not already "tinned" and shrugs off the solder, causing a bad connection. You can get around this by etching the varnish off the wire but it's easiest to use what has been provided here, and that is nice shiny soldered ends of the wires.
Use your soldering iron to melt the solder and lift the wires from the headphones. Don't worry about damaging the headphones themselves, it is only the wire that we want. The wire needs to be undamaged from the very tips to the headphone jack, so just be craeful not to burn it accidentally with the soldering iron.
Step 4: Solder, Solder.
Be very careful not to slip and hit those ever so tiny components to the right with the hot soldering iron. If you do then it's probably game over - you'll need to buy a replacement headphone daughterboard after all.
Lastly, you must resist the temptation to remove the headphone jack from the daughterboard. This will become clear later on when you try to use your ghetto fixed ipod later.
The metal bracket that holds the daughterboard has a handy motch in it on this side, so knot the headphone cable and lay it, knot innermost, in this notch. I found it conveniet to knot the wire after soldering, so I could get the wire length right, but you might want to knot it first so that you do not put too much strain on the solder joints, which might possibly break them. You can always loosen and adjust the knot after soldering.
If you're as paranoid as me, you'll check continuity with a multimeter, and then when you are happy your soldering was perfect, give each of your solder jobs a dab of nail varnish to insulate them from anything they might rub against inside the ipod.
Step 5: Reassembly and Pumpin' Beats!
The plastic top that holds the "hold" switch can either be left off, for the complete ghetto look, or you can use a small round file to carve a corresponding notch into it.
Now, if you plug this into anything and try playing any tunes, you mightl notice a very odd echo effect, buzzing, bad bass response, or most probably silence. This is because the ipod has damn annoying circuitry that detects when a cable is plugged in the socket. This is why my ghetto fix requires the headphone socket to be left in situ and also a pair of broken headphones. If it's not broken off already like mine was, snip the jack off of the donor broken headphones and insert it into the headphone socket of your ipod. Now it thinks there's a pair of headphones plugged in, it will play your tunes properly.
Plug it into a decent amp, turn up the volume and hit play!