Step 6Edge Stitch Edges
For edge stitching, I used a triple straight stitch (one step forward, one step backward, one step forward). This gives a nice, thick, sturdy line of stitching that goes with the jeans aesthetic. If your sewing machine doesn't have a triple stitch option, you can use a regular straight stitch and make two or three passes. Be careful to line up the needle at the first stitch if you don't want the stitches to all blend together.
For stitch length, 3.0mm or about 8-9 stitches/inch work well and give a nice look. The stitching should be about 1/8 inch from the edge. If your sewing machine allows you to move the needle off center, the best thing is to move the needle as far to the right as possible. This allows greater grab by the presser foot and feed dogs.
Alternatively, you can use a zig-zag stitch or any other decorative stitch option your sewing machine offers.
It's important to have a sharp needle, too. A dull or burred needle may just push the fabric into the throat plate.
You will edge stitch the long sides of the outside piece, the longs sides of the inside (billfold) piece, and the open ends of the pocket pieces. If you incorporated a lapped seam for one of the pocket edges, there's no need to edge stitch that.
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