Step 4: Seperator (Paper) and Pressing

For a flat battery, I lay a piece of paper on top to soak some of the electrolyte and acts as a seperator later. In the tube, this isn't necessary - as the electrolyte takes up the extra space.

Additionally, for contact, I added some wax paper and pressed the battery for 48 hours until it finished reacting.

<p>This is very interesting! I've been dabbling in diy batteries for a while now but it's hard to find info and I'm not good with chemistry. I've been trying to learn more but maybe you can help me. Would this be a feasible option for a small off grid set-up. Mainly as it pertains to the discharge current of the cells. I'm not familiar with the average discharge capabilities. I know lead acid is very high and lithium-ion as well but if I had several cells in series and parallel would it be doable without having to get insane with the number of cells? Only would need like 400 watts at any given time... Keep up the good work, hopefully I can contribute soon! </p>
<p>&quot;Pourbaix diagrams&quot; get you in the neighborhood, they tell you what chemical is formed at what pH for a given voltage - in aqueous solutions. This will tell you what is happening on the +/- sides of a battery (generally). </p><p>BUT much of what is available online really doesn't help in the construction of a useful battery - the crappiest battery you might buy is going to be waaaay better than any you can build. I'm working towards one, but it's definitely not going to give you 400 watts. My record is something like 3 watt hours. It's been 4 years, and I can barely keep a white LED running all night. </p><p>But don't let that stop you. Start small with copper/zinc or copper/magnesium and work your way up and learn the chemistry - that's literally what I've been doing. In an emergency, this could be used to recharge a cell phone - VERY slowly.</p><p>for an off-grid setup:</p><p>Solar panel, charge controller, 12v lead acid batteries, inverter : something like </p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-Complete-VertaMax-Inverter-Off-Grid/dp/B01BBDC9GC?tag=limitlessadve-20" rel="nofollow">https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-Complete-VertaM...</a></p><p>Edison cells will give you some leeway for discharging, they can go much deeper before they are considered &quot;discharged&quot;.</p><p>24v will give you a much more robust system (2X12v in series, then all in parallel).</p>
<p>Thank you! Yeah that's about what I've found but I keep looking for another way. Even making my own Edison or Lead-Acid batteries but Lead Oxide is so expensive and hard to make and I don't know how to turn Nickel into NiOH or whatever Edison batteries use but I'm going to keep looking into it. My goal is slightly different, I really like your goal a lot but for me, I'm ok with stuff that's a bit harder to get a hold of and everything I just want something that can be built for cheap. I'm not in quite the poverty level of your batteries goals but not too far away either haha. I don't want to be a slave to the system for any longer than I need to be so I'm trying to get setup on my own on the cheap so I can grow my own non gmo organic food and all that good hippy stuff haha. <br><br>Thanks again for all your help and info! </p><p><br>Respect!</p>
<p>Stay away from Lead, just buy them. They're messy and dangerous to create, and the factories do a much better job of keeping things environmentally friendly than you can at home.</p><p>One hint I can give you is Nickel Foam and potassium hydroxide. You can find nickel foam online, OR you can plate nickel on iron. If you made a nickel and iron cell, filled it with water, and drained it, it will make the oxides you need - no need to buy powder. Plating is even better than foam, because the active layer is very very thin on the surface - so you could nickel plate steel wool and have it work. Be careful with your plating solutions when done. Potassium hydroxide and water is the electrolyte.</p><p>I think within a few years I'll be production ready.. just gotta make that leap.</p>
<p>Awesome man, Thank you very much! Keep it up!</p>
<p>Well I need to build something with a lot of storage capacity . Could it be scaled up to something waist high?</p>
<p>You might take a look at the copper version (the last step).. you can then alternate layers of aluminum and copper to make something with ridiculous capacity... just make sure all the copper layers are connected to each other for your cathode (+) and the aluminum to each other for your anode (-). You overall voltage will be lower, but closer to AA-style voltages (1.3 or so). Starting with oxidized copper in the build will also help shorten conditioning time.<br><br>I just started building such a stack today, 5 interwoven layers of copper and aluminum. I have the graphite, but I realize that graphite sheets or solid electrodes just might not be readily accessible for many people. I was able to buy a 10' section of aluminum flashing ($6) and 10' of copper ($34) at my local hardware store.</p>
<p>very similar to Medelis Battery</p>
<p>True, except he should be getting a much higher voltage with magnesium than he does. I haven't looked into magnesium yet - but using this technique he should be closer to 3.5-4 volts with Mg. I don't know about rechargability with MG either - once it becomes MgO, it might just stay there - giving you a &quot;one way trip&quot;<br><br>I'm able to get 1.7 down to 1.2v with a similar chemistry (see the added end chapter) with copper on the anode with aluminum.</p><p>Additionally, Aluminum is much easier to find as scrap than magnesium.</p>
<p>I have the same scope, built it from a kit when I was 17. Think it cost a little over 100 bucks. How did you come by yours?</p>
<p>My dad bought it in junior high (~1957) from a friend who built it from the kit a year or two before. Over the years he replaced most of the <br>capacitors and a few resistors. I received it last year as a gift from <br>him and had to replace a few bits of my own, works beautifully once it <br>warms up. As a reward for repairing it, he got me a brand new <br>oscilloscope that sits next to it, and we've taken bets on which one <br>will still be operable in another 60 years.</p>

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More by bigattichouse:Junk Battery - 2.65v Rechargable Aluminum-Ion  Create a rechargable 2 volt Aluminum/Titanium Ion Battery Create large refuelable metal-air battery. 
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