Introduction: Junkyard Radio to Table Radio

Every few months or so, I like to do a bit of a scouting mission of my local u-pick auto parts place to look for inspiration for the next project.

I usually look for items that generally aren't very popular for anyone looking for parts for their car but may still serve some sort of useful purpose. (For example, this was one of the inspirations that spawned my Junkyard Clock project which can be seen at this link:https://www.instructables.com/id/Junkyard-Clock/ )

While car stereos in general are a popular item at the u-pick yard, most people tend to look for ones that have a CD player or other such high end features. This often leaves the "Old Plain Jane" AM/FM radio as something that tends to be overlooked and are actually quite plentiful in the junkyard.

I was in the market for a small radio that I could have on my desk at work, but I wanted something that was a little less plastic and a little more unique.

By utilizing one of these unloved radios, along with some small wood scraps and some odds and ends from my junk drawer, I was able to build a radio that fits quite well in any home or office environment.

Step 1: Sourcing the Radio

Picture of Sourcing the Radio

Removing the Radio

My main goal was to look for the most basic radio that was available. Traditionally these sorts of radios can be found in the base models of commercial vehicles such as cube or cargo vans.

While most radios from any vehicle will work fine, I settled on the radio that was installed in early 2000's Ford vans (in the case of the radio that I got, a Ford E-450 cube van) The main deciding factor in selecting this particular radio was that I had found that the Ford radios had the smallest footprint (Radio dimensions are approximately 7.5"X3.5"X2"), which made it the best candidate for a table radio.

The proper method to remove a radio from a Ford vehicle is to insert a removal tool (or 2 pieces of wire coat hanger) into the 4 holes that are on each side of the radio face plate. The idea is that the wire depresses the retaining clips holding the radio in the dashboard, allowing for it to be pulled out.

In practice, I didn't have much success with that approach, so an alternative method was be to pop out front trim of the dashboard with a slotted screwdriver (Remember to be careful not to damage the trim piece - lest someone else might need it!). With the dashboard popped out, I was able depress the retaining clips that was holding the radio in place, disconnected the wires that were connected to the radio, and popped the radio out of the dashboard.

With the radio removed from the dashboard, I used wire cutters to obtain the connectors for the wiring harness and antenna for the radio. When doing the cutting, don't forget to leave a reasonable amount of wire at the end of the connectors

Initial Prep

Since the radio has spent its life in a work vehicle, the odds are that it has accumulated quite a bit of dirt. A good cleaning is probably in order.

First, using a Torx screwdriver, remove and discard the retaining clips that were used to secure the radio to the dashboard

Again using the Torx screwdriver, take out the screws that attach the face plate to the radio. Once the screws have been removed, use a slotted screwdriver to carefully lift the tabs that are used to attach the face place to the radio and remove the face plate from the radio.

Using warm soapy water and a cloth, give the face plate a thorough cleaning.

With a damp cloth, also give the body of the radio a cleaning - particularly the buttons and knobs. Be careful that water does not get inside the radio.

Once everything is clean and dry, reattach the face plate to the radio and re-install the screws that hold the face plate to the radio

Step 2: Gathering Up the Bits That You Need

Picture of Gathering Up the Bits That You Need

As mentioned earlier, one of the main goals for this project was to utilize some of the scrap wood and various bits of electronic junk that I had left over from previous projects.

When I built the cabinet I cut out the wood pieces using some furniture grade plywood that I had laying around, but any type of wood would work well.

To build the table radio, you need the following:


Cabinet Parts List

  • 2 pieces of 8 3/8" X 5.5" 3/4 inch Plywood (Good 1 Side) for the top and bottom of the cabinet
  • 2 pieces of 5" X 5.5" 3/4 inch Plywood (Good 1 Side) for the sides of the cabinet
  • 1 piece of 11" X 7" 3/4 inch Plywood (Good 1 Side) for the base of the cabinet
  • 1 piece of 3.5/8" X 7 1/8 of 1/2 inch plywood for the back of the cabinet
  • Iron on pine veneer
  • 4 1.25 inch wood screws
  • 4 3/4 inch wood screws
  • Wood filler
  • Paint / Stain
  • Glue (white wood glue and hot glue)

Electronics Parts List

  • AM/FM Car Radio
  • 4 Ohm 10 Watt (Minimum) Speaker - make sure the speaker is no larger than the dimensions of the radio
  • Radio wiring harness connector (Pulled from the vehicle when you removed the radio)
  • Antenna connector (Pulled from the vehicle when you removed the radio)
  • 6 feet of electrical cable - I used an old electrical cord with the plugs cut off.
  • 12 Volt DC "Wall Wart" power supply - should be at least rated for 500 mA
  • DC power socket - make sure it fits the connector on the wall wart power supply
  • Connector wire
  • Solder

Tools

  • Miter saw
  • Table saw
  • Scroll or jig saw
  • Router (Router table preferred)
  • Hot Glue Gun
  • Screwdriver (or drill with driver bit)
  • Chisel
  • Iron
  • Soldering Iron
  • Clamps (corner clamps recommended)
  • Wire Strippers
  • Electrical Tape

Step 3: Building the Box

Picture of Building the Box

The next step is to build the cabinet that will house the radio and speaker.

Using the exploded diagram as a guide, cut 45 degree angles along the 5.5 inch edges of the sides, top and bottom pieces of wood with a table saw. If you use plywood for this project, make sure that you cut your 45 degree angles such that the good side of your plywood will be on the outside of your constructed box.

As a personal preference, I wanted the face of the radio into be recessed into the cabinet. After cutting the side angles, I then used my router table, and with a 3/8 inch straight bit, I put in a 3/8 by 1/2 inch slot along the inside edges of the side, top and bottom pieces where the front of the cabinet would be located when assembled.

Once the recesses have been routed, I used wood glue to assemble the cabinet by gluing along the 45 degree edges and clamping the edges together with corner clamps. Make sure that the box is square and that the routed slots are facing the front of your box as you are clamping the box together.

When the glue is dry, remove the clamps and do a test fit of the radio into the new cabinet. The radio should fit snugly, but should seat fully into the routed slots of the cabinet. If there are any areas of the radio that bind going into the cabinet, you can adjust the fit by removing some of the excess wood from the inside of the cabinet by using a wood chisel.

Step 4: Attaching the Back

Picture of Attaching the Back

Using the 3.5 X 7 1/8 piece of 1/2 inch plywood cabinet back, the next step is to create an opening for the speaker to be installed. For this project, I wanted the speaker to be installed on the outside of the cabinet, which meant that the magnet and cone of the speaker needed to fit through the back of the cabinet.

Speakers come in various magnet and cone sizes, so the hole needed to be a perfect fit so that the cone and speaker could fit through the back without leaving any "gaps" around the front edges of the speaker. To find the right size hole to cut, I found that the easiest way to determine this was to look for a container that had a big enough diameter such that the cone and magnet fitted inside the container, but was still small enough to be concealed by the front of the speaker cone.

Once I found the right size container, I then placed the end of the container in the middle of the plywood back and traced the outline of the container's opening in the middle of the plywood. I then drilled a pilot hole in the middle of the circle that I traced with a drill press to allow access for the scroll saw. I then cut out the circle with a scroll saw.

Once the circle's been cut, install the plywood back to the back of the cabinet box with wood glue. The plywood back should fit snugly to the inside of the cabinet box.

Step 5: Making the Base

Picture of Making the Base

Next I prepared the base of the radio cabinet. Taking the 11.5" X 7 piece of 3/4 inch plywood I put a decorative edge along the two 7 inch edges and the one 11.5 inch using a Roman Ogee bit on the Router table. If you are using plywood, when putting the edges one with the router, make sure that the good side of the plywood is facing down.

Once the edges have been applied, I then gave the base a good sanding and then applied 3 coats of stain and urethane.

Since I was using plywood, the edges would have the plywood layers apparent along the edges of the base, With the base stained, those layers did actually look pretty good, but I wanted the base to "pop" a bit more so I decided to paint the decorative edges in black lacquer. The lacquer was applied by masking the top of the base along the edge to be painted and applying the black lacquer with an artist's brush.

Once the paint is dry, remove the masking tape and the base is finished.

Step 6: Finishing the Cabinet

Picture of Finishing the Cabinet

Moving my attention back the radio cabinet, I used some wood filler to fill in any cracks in the joints where the sides of the cabinet meet. When applying the wood filler, make sure to use only use enough to only fill the crack and make sure wipe off any excess that may be on the cabinet sides with a damp cloth (this is crucial since I've found that wood filler will take stain differently than the wood. While the stain will blend in with the edges, any excess filler on the wood itself will stand out).

Since this project uses plywood, it's suggested that any exposed plywood edges be masked with a strip of wood veneer. These strips are pretty easy to find at any lumber store and are applied by ironing on the strip along the plywood edge with a hot iron. Since I was using Spruce plywood, I used a pine veneer. After "ironing" on the veneer, any excess veneer can be trimmed off with a razor blade. Alternatively, if you used solid wood for the cabinet, applying veneer isn't really necessary.

With the veneer applied and the cracks filled, give the cabinet a good sanding, after which the cabinet can be then painted or stained in the similar manner that was used for the base.

After painting the cabinet, I also decided to paint the back of the cabinet (where speaker will be located) in black lacquer. The lacquer can be applied in the same manner as it was applied on the base.

Once the cabinet is dry, it now be joined with the base. To do that, apply some wood glue on the bottom of the cabinet and attach the cabinet to the base. Make sure that the back of the cabinet is flush with the back the base and that the sides of the cabinet are 1.5 inches in from each side of the base. To further secure things, I also applied four 1.25 inch wood screws in from the bottom of the base into the cabinet.

Step 7: Adding the Speaker and Power Connector

Picture of Adding the Speaker and Power Connector

Once the cabinet is assembled, it's now time to install all the electronic components for the radio.

The first step of this process is that you will need to install the speaker and the DC power socket for the radio. If not already in place, take the time now to solder a few inches of lead wire on both the speaker and the DC socket. When soldering the DC solder take careful note which wire is negative and which one is positive.

Assembling the speaker is very straight forward. Take the speaker and drop it into the speaker hole that's been cut in the back of the cabinet. The outside cone of the speaker should sit on the outside of the cabinet. Secure the speaker to the cabinet by screwing in four 3/4 inch wood screws through the attachment holes on the speaker. Make sure the wires attached to the speaker are inside the cabinet.

To install the DC socket, drill a 1/2 inch hole in the lower right hand side of the cabinet. Install the socket by pushing it into the hole until it is flush with the back of the cabinet. Make sure that the wires attached to the socket are inside the cabinet. Using a hot glue gun, secure the DC socket to the cabinet by liberally gluing the socket with hot glue from inside the cabinet.

Step 8: Making the Antenna

Picture of Making the Antenna

In order for our radio to pick up any stations we need to create an antenna for it. Typically I find that car radios are very good receivers that can pick relatively weak stations very well. With this in mind I decided to design an antenna that would fit within the cabinet of the radio, albeit with some sacrifice to it's efficiency. I felt it would be a fairly good trade off for this type of radio.

The antenna is constructed with the surplus 6 foot electrical cord. Start by cutting off the plugs of the cord, leaving just the length of 2 wire cord. Using a dowel as a jig, start wrapping the cord into a coil. After a few turns, apply some hot glue on the coils in order to keep them in place. Once the hot glue dries, remove the wire from the dowel and continue coiling the wire until the wire is completely coiled but leaving a few inches of wire at the end. Secure the entire coil with hot glue. With wire strippers, strip the wires until you have about an inch of bare wire at the end of the cord.

The next step is to prepare the antenna connector for the radio to be attached to the antenna. Do this by removing some of the outer insulation from the wire on the connector with wire strippers. Keep in mind that typically this wire will be a coax cable. When stripping the outside insulation, you will see braided wire with a second wire encased in insulation. Move the braided wire down to where the outside insulator has been cut and form it into a solid wire. Remove some of the insulation covering the inner wire, exposing that wire, Be careful that the braided wire and the inner wire do not short themselves out.

Connect the antenna connector to the antenna by soldering them together. When soldering, solder the braided wire onto one of the wires of the 2 wire antenna, and solder the inner wire to the other antenna wire. Again make sure that the wires do not short them selves out. Neat up the connections up with electrical tape .

Using the hot glue gun, apply a liberal amount of hot glue to the antenna coil and install the antenna in the cabinet by attaching the antenna to the magnet of the speaker - be careful that no glue ends up on the speaker cone.

Step 9: Wiring It All Up

Picture of Wiring It All Up

The final step is to complete the wiring of the radio and install it into the cabinet.

At first glance, the typical wiring connector for a modern car radio is a very complex affair. In the case of the Ford radio, a 16 wire connector is used. To make sense of the wiring for a radio, as long as you know the model and year of the vehicle that the radio came from, a quick search on internet will quickly give you the answers.

In the the case of our radio that came out of the early 2000's Ford van, we determined that the following connections were needed:

  • Pin 1 - Radio Lights (you could omit if you don't want the radio to light up)
  • Pin 2 - Ground
  • Pin 3 - Ignition Start
  • Pin 4 - Ground
  • Pin 9 - Feed to Battery
  • Pin 10 - Ignition "Run/Accessory"
  • Pin 11 - Ground
  • Pin 14 - Left Front Speaker (+)
  • Pin 15 - Left Front Speaker (-)
  • Pin 16 - Ground

Once you've isolated the wires that you need based on the connector pin location, you can cut the wires that are not needed from the connector. With the remaining wires, strip an inch of insulation from the end of the wires with wire strippers.

Connect all the "Ground" wires together with a "rat tail" joint and solder them together. This will be considered the Negative Power wire

Connect the Radio Light, Ignition Start, Ignition Run/Accessory, and Feed to Battery wires together with a "rat tail" joint and solder them together. This will be considered the Positive Power wire.

The next step will be to solder the wires on the connector to the Power and speaker wires in the cabinet. Solder the Positive connector wire to the Positive wire for the DC Power socket. Likewise, solder the Negative connector wire to the Negative wire for the DC Power socket.

Next solder the speaker wires on the connector to the speaker.

This time the radio is now ready to be installed into the cabinet. Plug in the wiring harness connector into the radio followed by the antenna connector.

Tidy up the soldered connections with electrical tape and install the radio into the cabinet by pushing it into the cabinet until it is firmly seated into the cabinet.

Step 10: Ready to Rock and Roll

Picture of Ready to Rock and Roll

The radio is now ready to make sound. Plug the wall wart power supply into the DC socket, plug in the wall wart into the nearest electrical socket and you're rocking and rolling!

I found this to be a very easy project to do over a weekend, while at the same time making good use of things that would have likely been thrown away!

Comments

smpcorp (author)2016-10-25

I'd like to offer some constructive criticism:

1. All of these car radios are stereo. Connecting just one speaker will have half of the music content missing.

2.Why does everybody need to make everything compact? Make the box bigger in width and put a speaker on each side. Bigger almost always sounds better. As well, car stereos want to see a 4 ohm load to get the maximum efficiency out of the amplifiers. Use a "pair" of 4 ohm speakers. Maybe upgrade to 5-1/4" ones! Be sure to allow enough space on each side to give enough clearance between the radio and the speaker magnets.

amackay (author)smpcorp2016-10-25

Hello!

Constructive criticism always welcome :) - I've been getting some pretty good tips out of the comments with this Instructable.

1 - That's a valid point - to be honest I hadn't really noticed anything "missing" yet in the songs, but I agree that could happen. But I wonder, if you have to stick with one speaker, if splicing the wires from both sides of the channel (ie, "+" wire for left and right speaker on the one wire for the speaker and the "-" wire for the left and right speaker on the other) - and basically duplex both channels into one speaker - if would address that too. I'll try that as an experiment...

2 - Sadly, smaller seems to be the direction the world going these days :) But maybe an idea for a "Version 2" of this radio would be to perhaps make it more like a bookshelf stereo - have the radio and 2 speakers in separate boxes. That would give me some flexibility in the speaker sizes - and perhaps be able to put in a proper power supply in the case with the radio. That would also address the magnet clearance issue. (As they say, Stay Tuned!)

You're definitely giving me some things to ponder...

Thanks!!!!

smpcorp (author)amackay2016-10-25

Agreed that the world has gone to smaller and smaller with audio devices. The same occurred in the early 1960s when radios shrunk to tiny sizes compared to the1940s huge radios. They eventually grew into monstrous boom boxes in the 80s during the era where people appreciated "good" sound quality. We're back to small again.
As far as joining the left and right channels to blend them into mono, the answer is no. You will get sound but it will sound pretty terrible. However, you "could" try using the + from one channel and the - of the other channel but you will have to be sure the balance control is set to center. Some amplifiers can tolerate that condition.

amackay (author)smpcorp2016-10-26

Oh OK - I think I get it - by wiring it that way it would allow for the proper phasing for those 2 channels - I'll give it a shot

Thanks!

wquoyle (author)amackay2016-11-07

Firstly, nice job indeed, love the idea of re-purposing a car radio like this and you've made a fine job of the cabinet for sure.

Just one point to address from the comments; it's generally accepted you never wire stereo outputs together. You may be ok at this power level but, in theory, if the two outputs were largely out of phase (one channel pushin' while the others pullin') you could have a virtual short across the power amp output. ie a higher than safe voltage across the output, maybe enough current to make something in the radio pop.

I'd always try and squeeze two speakers in.

But, that's just a FYI, nice work on the actual instructable.

amackay (author)wquoyle2016-11-07

Thanks!

I'm a bit of a self taught electronics dabbler with some woodworking skills to boot - so I like it when I can merge the 2 together :)

I certainly now understand the issue around the phasing - I'm going to keep the current radio wired just to the single channel for now - since I don't really notice the missing stereo channel when it's playing - but I did grab another radio (same model) at the u-pick yard this past weekend. Basically this one will be a guinea pig for experimenting with the phasing - I'm actually a bit curious on what it does sound like wired in phase versus out of phase on a single speaker (and if I "blow it up", well, it was only $10 and I can salvage parts from it). If it survives the experiments I probably will make a Version 2 of the radio with 2 speakers - I'm actually leaning towards a Bookshelf style with the speakers in separate enclosures, but we'll see what strikes my fancy when it comes time to build. You'll probably see my final decision in a future Instructable :)

I really glad you like my Instructable - I'm actually quite pleasantly surprised at the discussion it's sparked (and it's not a bad thing when you learn a thing or 2 in the process)

Cheers!

claudeb2 (author)smpcorp2016-10-26

Actually, there's a few "constructive criticisms" you mention that are not correct. I used to be a mecp certified installer so I've studied, tested, and experienced in the field about all this.
~Yes, car radios are all wired for stereo. If OP had only used one pair of speaker leads from the harness he chopped off, he would be missing half the audio (if source is in stereo) and you would be correct. However, OP wired all speaker leads together, basically converting it to mono sound.

~Audio is massively more complex than "bigger is better", especially with new products that are precisely engineered and so on, whatever. What really makes audio sound better involves precise calculations of the enclosure to the specific speaker in it (distance between each wall, sealed or ported, type of material used like fiberglass or mdf, and so much more).
~not all car stereos "want" to see a 4 ohm load. It depends on how the stereo is produced. Most are meant for optimum sound at 4 ohms, but a lot are made to for 6 ohms, 8 ohms, 2 ohms. With that said, speakers can be wired differently to change the ohm load.

A really good free resource for information is www.the12volt.com

smpcorp (author)claudeb22016-11-07

In response to your comment, I was never a mecp certified installer. However, I have been designing analog audio amplifier circuits since I graduated college as an analog electronics engineer, of which I am currently employed. ALL automotive factory head units have ONLY 13.8 volts as a supply voltage. There is NO switching supplies in factory systems to "UP" the voltage. Therefore designers use the lowest impedance the amplifier can handle to get the most power out of them with the given 13.8 volts. So... Yes, all factory amps are looking for a 2 ohm load to get the most out of them. They do this by pairing speakers and choosing the proper crossovers so as not to create too low an impedance wit the tweeters connected.

Again, you CANNOT connect all outputs in parallel. That is cardinal rule #1 in audio power amplifiers.

amackay (author)claudeb22016-10-26

Wow - For a project where basically just I wanted to "put a few bits together and listen to some tunes" I'm getting a good education on the art of car audio :)

I'll be honest - I didn't realized that there was a real science behind making the radio in your car sound good.

I'll give that site a browse - As I mentioned earlier, I'm getting some ideas on a "Version 2" of this project.

Cheers!

SteveA35 (author)2016-10-28

I recycled an AudioVox car radio for use in my one-man repair shop long ago that served me well for ~ 10 years.

If I was doing this today, I would probably use the following linked supply instead of a bench power supply, it's efficient and has good specs :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96W-Universal-Laptop-Charger-Notebook-Power-adapter-for-HP-DELL-IBM-Lenovo-LK/122036289680?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39836%26meid%3Dbee4659ae56045bc9995f92d90dcc835%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D201241864529

amackay (author)SteveA352016-10-28

I never considered trying a laptop power supply - but actually that may be a better choice than a Wall Wart since they run at a higher amperage and likely are better shielded - and they are starting to get pretty common these days too actually.

I see that the supply you reference is select-able for 12 Volts and that's the key thing here - we can't just use any laptop supply since a good number of them are greater that 12 Volts (for example, the Dell laptop that I have has a 19 Volt supply). So we should make sure it's a 12 volt supply lest we blow up the radio :).

If I can get my hands on a 12 Volt laptop supply I might actually swap it in place of the Wall Wart. That may solve some of the concerns that some folks have raised in the comments.

3366carlos (author)2016-10-27

you need at least two speakers for stereo sound

bassbindevil (author)2016-10-25

Some late model car radios aren't usable unless they're connected to the car's computer bus. I don't know when that became a thing. They do it because it simplifies connections to steering wheel controls, and because a radio can automatically use different EQ curves for different vehicle models, and stuff.

there's a bunch of potential reasons for linking the radio into the vehicle bus. discouraging aftermarket stereos, theft protection, knowing when the headlights are on, different eq profiles for different models or perhaps according to speed or window or convertible top position. I'd guess this stuff started happening in the mid-'90s. radios from the '80s would be safe bets, and not so old that wrecking yards would call them collectible.

amackay (author)bassbindevil2016-10-27

That definitely would be the safest bet if you want to be 100% certain.

Out of curiosity, I did some digging on the story around the early 2000's E-450 that I pulled that radio from. From what I can tell, that particular radio was used by Ford from 1998 to 2003 - including in Crown Vic police cars :)

If the radio was designed in say the late 80's / early 90's that would put it around that time line - so if an auto manufacture kept a particular model unchanged for a long time - Ford Econoline vans and Crown Vics certainly seem to fit that criteria :) - you might be able to get a more recently built radio - but you certainly need to know your cars.

But if you're not a "gearhead", I definitely agree that something from the 80's would be the way to go.

Cheers!

amackay (author)bassbindevil2016-10-26

That's a good tip.

My basic premise was with this was to use something that was really not very popular with the automotive crowd - So I went as basic a radio that I could find.

But yes, it seems that most of the late model car radios these days seem to be driven by steering wheel controls. I guess the basic rule would be - if it has audio controls on the steering wheel - take a pass on it.

Thanks!

GTO3x2 (author)amackay2016-10-26

He's talking about theft protection, not steering wheel controls (and these are alternates). I would say if it has a data line, e.g. class 2 serial data, it could need authorization by the BCM. There is not a date for all makes and models.

amackay (author)GTO3x22016-10-26

Oh OK

It really sounds like you really need to do your homework on what makes and models to look for before you head out to the yard

GTO3x2 (author)2016-10-26

Great idea! A 500 mA transformer is enough w/o burning up? TheftLock does seem to be a problem.

amackay (author)GTO3x22016-10-26

Thanks!

I just had the radio playing for any hour - the wall wart Is warm - but I wouldn't call it hot (I would say it was a typical temperature for a "working" wall wart).

I've been leaving it plugged in continuously since I built it a few weeks ago now (basically the lights are on and it's displaying the time 24/7 whether the radio is playing or not) - no ill effects so far...

If that is a concern - you can always go to a higher amperage supply.

Based on the feedback I gotten in the comments, it sounds like you really need to do your research on the make and model of car to see if you do need a code or not (In the case of the Ford radio I pulled - the code wasn't needed)

Cheers!

farna (author)2016-10-26

Try a wal-wart from telephone equipment -- answering machine or wireless telephone. They should be a bit better shielded and have enough power.

amackay (author)farna2016-10-26

That would make sense - since they were used for wireless devices (in the case of the phones) they should be better shielded. I'll try a swap and see if the AM band gets better.

Thanks!

christine828 (author)2016-10-25

Very cool! I wonder if that might work for a unit with satellite radio capability? Of course you'd have to subscribe to the service. Hmmmmm......you've got me thinking.............

amackay (author)christine8282016-10-25

Thanks!

You'll never know unless you try :)

Cheers!

DIY Hacks and How Tos (author)2016-10-22

Nice looking radio. It reminds me of listening to music in my old truck.

The average factory car radio prior to the bluetooth days requires at least a 2A power supply. 4 amps would be better but they are pretty scarce. That .500 ma power supply is way too small to get any volume out of the radio without noticeable distortion.

There are several wall warts around that will be able to provide that. A car battery charger will never work properly as they are usually only half wave rectified. There is really no filtering that you could to to completely silence the 60 Hz hum. Try to find an older wall wart that has a transformer (a heavy one) instead of a switching supply. Switching supplies usually put out a lot of interference that will greatly affect the radio sensitivity to pull in stations.

amackay (author)smpcorp2016-10-25

That's a fair comment - The radio itself is designed for a 12Volt 2 Amp system so, that would be the optimal solution. For the purpose I had in mind which was to have it a on a desk or some other place that didn't require for it to be "cranked". at high volume all the time I thought I could get away running it a lower power. In the posted video I think I have it at about quarter volume at its loudest, which is still a good volume for the purpose in mind.

Now I just put it to max volume while I was typing this, and yes there is distortion there (mind you it could also be from the lower power speaker that I used too), At about half volume the dial lights will blink in time to the music, but at quarter volume - which again seems to be a decent volume for a room, it seems happy.

I like the idea of the older wall wart - I know I have a couple here - I'll give it a try. 60hz hum is not really detectable on FM (I wonder if they built noise cancellation circuits into these radios since cars can be a bit noisy electrically themselves) - quite noticeable on AM. I'll give that a shot and see if I can clean up the AM on it, Thanks for the tip!

Cheers!

Thanks Jason!

I have it playing now as I type this - Now that you mention it - It does kind of remind me of the one that was in the old truck that my Grandfather had :)

tk42967 (author)2016-10-25

Cool idea. At one point, I considered using a single DIN radio in a PC case (as the radio is about the size of a CD-ROM drive). Then use the PC power supply to power the radio and possibly some lights. Mount some speakers in the PC case and have a self contained portable sound system.

amackay (author)tk429672016-10-25

Thanks!

That would be a cool idea actually. I would wonder if it would also work as part of a "live" desktop PC, that way you can listen to tunes without affecting your bandwidth from having to stream over the internet.

Cheers.

tk42967 (author)amackay2016-10-25

My thought in using a gutted computer case was the ability to fit a sub woofer into the side, along the other speakers.

amackay (author)tk429672016-10-25

Ah!

Actually I bet the sound quality would be pretty good with the hollow case (would sort of like tower speaker cabinet)

Eh Lie Us! (author)2016-10-25

Thank you for doing this. I have always been curious on how to recycle and old car radio.

amackay (author)Eh Lie Us!2016-10-25

It was fun doing it - glad you like it!

Cheers!

DavidÖ183 (author)2016-10-25

Have You tried taking power from a 12 volt car battery and a charger to the battery? Tried it but got some hums from the charger I think... seems it needs some electronical filter between the battery and the stereo with this setup... Anybody that knows how to build a cheap filter?

amackay (author)DavidÖ1832016-10-25

Hi!

I have - but only to "smoke test" the radio - it did come from a junkyard after all :)

The battery charger is probably putting a 60hz hum on the line (they aren't known to power electronics very well :) ) I would start by trying a toroid on the battery charger cables first - that would be a easy first thing to try and usually that gets rid of it.

If that doesn't work I'm sure there's plans out there for a filter out there (Google is your friend :) )

Cheers!

chriscc63 (author)2016-10-25

I am a little unsure of the power supply. dont you need a power converter ? perhaps I need to read this again.
I have a brand new radio I got years ago and have nothing to do with it, its a cassette player, thats how old it is and i cant give it away, so this would be a great use for it. thanks

amackay (author)chriscc632016-10-25

Hi!

Well, you need to pay attention to the specs of the wall wart power supply. I know you can get Wall warts in either AC or DC. An AC wall wart would be bad! :)

Just make sure the Wall Wart says 12 V DC and you should be fine (just make sure the amperage is reasonable - 500mA or above)

With a cassette player - if you are going to play tapes, you may need something with more amperage - say 1 Amp. I do have a 1 amp wall wart myself, but they aren't all that common in the typical "junk drawer" - so you may need to buy one

Good Luck!

Gordyh (author)amackay2016-10-25

Actually if someone only has a 12 V AC wall wart, all you need is a Bridge Rectifier to convert from AC to DC. eBay link http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=...

Or if you have 4 diodes laying around you could make your own ;-) Plans are on the net.

amackay (author)Gordyh2016-10-25

That's true and if all you had was AC power supplies, you can probably "dead bug" the diodes - would be pretty simple. Likely could solder it in where you be connecting the power wires to the wiring harness in the cabinet.

DDW_OR (author)2016-10-25

did something like this for my shop. used a car radio with a SD card slot, put RCA jacks on the back to attach house speakers and incorporated a 2 amp 12v power supply. Radio reception in my area is VERY poor.

amackay (author)DDW_OR2016-10-25

Cool! - It'd be almost like a pseudo ipod

The 2 amp supply would actually be ideal - would be close to what the car battery would have put out.

Cheers

strumbly-player (author)2016-10-25

Most newer cars and trucks have speakers in the doors and sedans have them under the back window deck. Cheap place to get speakers. Easy to pop out. If you widen the box and mount the speakers on the sides you can get stereo.

amackay (author)strumbly-player2016-10-25

Hi!

Funny that you should say that - My original plan was to actually use the speakers from the van (they are only $5 at the u pick place I go to).

When I got the speaker and radio home I noticed that the speaker was quite a bit bigger than the radio itself - meaning the cabinet would have to quite a bit bigger than the radio. I actually built a prototype cabinet that incorporated that speaker. but it was going to be about a 12" X 12" X 12" cabinet - a little too much real estate for my desk I'm afraid....

If it was for a situation where space wasn't such a premium, this would be a good way to go (I'm actually going to use the prototype cabinet I built with another radio and I'll use it as my shop radio)

Cheers!

sbelectrics (author)2016-10-25

A good reduce/re-use/re-cycle project. Since this is a stereo radio, and there appears to be space for two 'speakers, why not fit two side-by-side? If you have the choice, a regulated power supply would give better sound quality with less 'hum.'

amackay (author)sbelectrics2016-10-25

Thanks!!!!

With car radios there's actually a capability to run 4 speakers off it. I did think a wee bit about running 2 speakers, and like you said, running the speakers out of the side of the cabinet versus the single speaker out the back. I decided against it mainly since the speakers would be fairly close together and I figured that I would probably lose any stereo affects. And secondly I did want to cut down the power requirement so that it could work fine on the Wall Wart, so running just the one speaker would have helped there too. With that same thought in mind I also went with a little bit of a lower power speaker too (The stock speaker in the van was 25 watts)

If I was to build another one I would actually try and make as an old school "book shelf" stereo with speakers in separate enclosures. The extra space freed up from the speaker in the radio cabinet could probably house a more beefed up power supply . In that case I could also look at moving up to a more "fancy" car stereo too. (Say, you may have given me an idea for another instructable :) )

Yes, Wall Warts aren't the most well designed power supplies. I didn't really find any hum on the FM band - which is what I listen to anyway - but yes, definite hum on AM. I did consider adding some toroids to the power wire on the supply, but like I said it wasn't a priority for me to have AM. But no argument here - a linear supply would be a more elegant solution.

Cheers!

simplysharon (author)2016-10-23

Very nice job. I love anything DIY, especially when they find new and unusual avenues for old, destined for the trash bin items. Thank you and keep posting

amackay (author)simplysharon2016-10-23

Thanks!

I'm with you - it seems like a shame to toss things out that seem to still have some usefulness left in them. We just need to think out side of the box a bit to find that use :)

I have a few other ideas up my sleeve.... Just need to find the time to make them :)

Cheers!

rcaputo1 (author)2016-10-23

Nice repurpose of a car radio. I had a Delco am / fm cassette radio from my old 1987 s10 blazer that I loved because of the equalizer and 4 speaker output. After having an IC replaced to solve a bad channel output problem it died. I probably would have used it in a similar hack in my garage but I passed it on to someone else. I picked up a chinese replacement radio that was dirt cheap, had a usb port and a remote. This replaced the old delco radio. I never listen to the radio, only use the usb for playing music from a thumb drive. Using the ebay / chinese radio in a similar way as you did would make this a great desk top project...only problem is that the remote has to be about 3 inches from the radio to work. I don't think I paid more than $20 from a US Ebay seller.

In regards to the wood filler and stain problem. I always use sanding dust of the wood I am working with as a filler. I prestain the wood dust with the stain I intend to use, let it dry. Crumble it up and then mix with white or carpenters wood glue. Works great on nail holes or filling poorly cut joints. Blends well with the final staining of a wood project.

amackay (author)rcaputo12016-10-23

Thanks!

Thanks for the tip on the filler! - there is no shortage here is sawdust here :)

That's been a particular pain for me - I was getting some success in wiping down the area with a wet cloth immediately after applying the filler and then sanding - but sometimes the filler would still show up when I did the staining This sounds like a very simple thing to try so I'll give it a shot next time :)

You could also try the u-pick yards like I did - in this case the radio only cost me $10 (It's actually a flat rate for any radio - so you could go as plain or as fancy as you want). I kind of like poking around the yard because you can see some interesting stuff there - so it's cheap entertainment too :)

Who knows - you might just find the radio that was in your Blazer (Actually I think I know the radio you are talking about - and I have seen them in the yard that I go to.)

Cheers!

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