Using movements of the hand, the lamp is able to turn on, off and change its brightness using an ultra sonic sensor.
In this tutorial we have uploaded a series of 4 different kerf bending patterns that subject diverse moods of light from the conical structure however we look forward to what others generate from our original patterns and design.
The project was part of a Massey University, Industrial Design paper at the Wellington Fab Lab in New Zealand.
Designed by Glenn Catchpole, Janelle Streater, Justin Lim and Jia Fang
Kerf Table Lamp Promo Video
Video of the assembling of the Kerf Table Lamp
Below are 4 of our kerf pattern designs ready to be downloaded, laser cut and assembled
Step 1: Required Equipment
CIRCUIT ROUTER (ROLAND)
DOUBLE SIDED TAPE
5V 100mA REGULATOR
4 x RESISTER (0)
6mm DC POWER JACK
2x2 HEADER PINS
2x3 HEADER PINS
ULTRASONIC MOTION SENSOR
12V LED STRIP (12 LEDS)
12V POWER SUPPLY WITH 6mm ADAPTER PLUG
JUG (BOIL WATER)
HAIRDRYER or HEATGUN
Step 2: Designing the Lamp
Step 3: Manufacturing the Lamp
Make sure the laser settings are strong enough to cut 3mm MDF all the way through, otherwise you may need to take a second pass again which will end up producing burn/smoke marks that will ruin the aesthetic of the units. It pays to do a few tests on the MDF if it isn't something you have laser cut before.
The next step requires pouring boiling water over all surfaces on the arc pieces to soften the fibers to produce a uniform bend. The Segments only need to be soaked under the water for 10 - 15 seconds. If they soak up too much water, the fibres will start to split apart and ruin the aesthetics of your lamp.
Bend the arc pieces into cone shapes. Try not to bend them too quickly, to avoid breaking them. It’s better to use top and bottom circle pieces to help form the shapes.
Once they the cone forms are still moist, assemble them together carefully to retain the lamps full hourglass shape. Take extra-care when meshing the tabs together as they can easily break. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to dry out the damp MDF.
Step 4: Making the Electronics
Step 2. Set up your circuit board securely on the bed of the router making sure it is level and firm with the point of the drill bit. Firstly you need to mill the circuit paths with the circuit file then drill round the edge with the border file. You need to define the type of cut whether it is milling or cut out under the the defaults option. Remember to note down the routers coordinates so you can use the border png file to then cut out the circuit with a drilling bit. It is important that it is set securely for this otherwise it can spin off and destroy your board.
Step 2. Collect all the electronic parts and solder them onto the circuit board, using the circuit diagram as a guide. it is important to take your time during this process, over heating components with the soldering iron may result in the parts failure.
Step 3. Attach the sensor to the 2x2 pin header.
Step 4. You need to program the a chip by attaching the AVR programmer to the 2x3 pin header and attach to the USB port on the computer.
Step 5. Attach the 12v power supply into the jack.
Step 6. To program the chip you can use Arduino which is a free downloadable software. Using this, under TOOLS select BOARD and then select the type of board you are using which is defined by the microchip. (ATTINY45 8 MHZ)
Step 7. Under TOOLS select BURN BOOTLOADER.
NB: You only need to do this the first time you upload to your chip. If it comes up with an error, recheck all your connections on the circuit board.
Download the code file for Arduino, verify the code and upload it.
Test your sensor! It should be working
Below are the attached Router .PNG files for cutting the circuit board and the code for programming the Arduino microcontroller