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Step 5Laminate
There are a few different possible approaches to laminating the PCB. MG Chemicals suggests a folder over and laminate approach. Others suggest using either heat or water (or both) to adhere the resist material to the PCB prior to lamination. I've had good luck with this approach:
1. Make your work area light-safe: Turn on the bug light and turn off any fluorescent, or >40 Watt incandescents
2. Cut laminate material 1/2 inch larger than board (double the length if you are doing a double-sided board)
3. Carefully peel just back just the first half inch of the inner film (always on the inside of the curl)
4. Carefully align the laminate ensuring that the laminate covers the board completely on both sides (if double-sided).
5. Press the first half inch of exposed laminate to the board.
6. Carefully pull the remaining inner layer downward a half-inch at a time, while simultaneously pressing the exposed laminate to the board. Be careful not to introduce any wrinkles. Continue to the back side in a similar manner if necessary.
8. Pass the board through the laminator (once the laminator is fully up to temp). Flip over and pass through the laminator again.
1. Make your work area light-safe: Turn on the bug light and turn off any fluorescent, or >40 Watt incandescents
2. Cut laminate material 1/2 inch larger than board (double the length if you are doing a double-sided board)
3. Carefully peel just back just the first half inch of the inner film (always on the inside of the curl)
4. Carefully align the laminate ensuring that the laminate covers the board completely on both sides (if double-sided).
5. Press the first half inch of exposed laminate to the board.
6. Carefully pull the remaining inner layer downward a half-inch at a time, while simultaneously pressing the exposed laminate to the board. Be careful not to introduce any wrinkles. Continue to the back side in a similar manner if necessary.
8. Pass the board through the laminator (once the laminator is fully up to temp). Flip over and pass through the laminator again.
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I did my first two runs - step that I thought is easiest (laminating) proved to be most difficult ... for now. I've used UV led box, exposure 3-4 minutes, drain cleaner 1:20 dissolved in water, everything was fine except laminating.
I had a lot of, as you say, blisters. Laminator is same as one on the picture (soverign). I didn't see your reply so I've tried setting 7 and 5 and both were bad.
I am laminating 0.05 brass sheet, not making pcb, so MG method (overlapping) cannot work.
Now I will try to run machine cold and that will probably help. The fact is that film has to adhere to copper perfectly. Any imperfection will ruing etching (dust etc.).
Working with copper clad is probably easier than thin brass sheet but as with everything new practice helps.
Press all the excess material together to completely seal it. Then trim with scissors to be sure no uncovered material is exposed as this will stick to the laminator rollers.
Finally run it through the laminator on the cold setting two or three times.
Good luck,
incoherent
First put on gloves and eliminate all traces of oil from the substrate by scrubbing with softscrub w/bleach, then dry quickly with an air compressor to avoid oxidation as much as possible. Do not touch the substrate with bare hands from here out. I switch from dish gloves to surgical gloves at this point.
Next, cut the photoresist to a sheet large enough to cover the front and fold over to the back (the long way--if not square) with 1/2" extra all around. peel back just the first half inch of the covering (the dull side on the inside of the curl). Lay the material over the board, making sure that it is sufficiently aligned to wrap to the back without veering off the board. Use your thumbs to press the 1/2" exposed section to the board evenly starting at the middle and sliding towards the sides. If the board is too cold, this won't stick well, but at about 80 degrees F, it will stick quite well. Unless you're in an igloo, this should be no problem.
Once you've got the first 1/2" adhered, turn the board around so that the adhered portion is facing you and the still-covered film is facing away from you. Pull the film back one more 1/2" between the board and the free film. Carefully press the film to the board starting at the middle and working out to the edge being sure to avoid bubbles. Repeat this process 1/2" at a time until the front of board is covered, then flip the board and do the same on the back side of the board.
Substrate temperature is pivotal--less than ~75 degrees F, and it doesn't stick well enough and bubbles creep back in after you press the film down. If the temp is ~90 degrees F or more, it will stick too strongly without even pressing, and may stick prematurely and entrap bubbles.
Hope all goes well. Be sure to post pics--is your UV LED box featured in one of the other instructables?