Step 5: Machining the Housing
I used a 1/8 inch end mill to machine 70 mil deep channels across the length of the housing. This provides heat sinking and more than doubles the thermally emissive surface area of the housing. The channels were cut front to back with respect to direction of travel of the bike. This allows the airflow from riding to dissipate the heat better. Cross cutting in the other direction resulting in a checker board pattern would increase turbulence and potentially increase cooling effectiveness. I have found though that after my 15 minute commute on cool evenings that the housing is just barely warm to the touch.
There are some excellent comments below regarding the coating of the housing. It turn out that for an application where convective airflow is the dominant cooling mechanism (as is the case here) that coating the surface of the aluminum will not measureably improve its heatsinking performance. In any case I decided to powder coat mine for durability and aesthetics. As stated above, the cooling performance of the housing is sufficient, so overall it seems to be working fine.
Remove these ads by
Signing Up









































![Voltage Regulated [5v] Bicycle Dynamo Light & USB Charger](http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FKR/TCHO/GSEEJZIP/FKRTCHOGSEEJZIP.SQUARE.jpg)

Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




Anyway, a polished, or smooth aluminum heat sink will dissipate heat poorly compared to a heat sink where the surface is anodized, painted, or otherwise roughed up. Of course if you paint it with an inch thick of rubber that no longer holds true. The point is that aluminum when machined as I did, comes out pretty shiny and giving it certain coatings will help the aluminum dissipate heat better. So maybe the word "conduct" was inappropriate.
effect of anodizing
Here's a table I found for thermal emissivity:
Polished aluminium 0.05
Polished copper 0.07
Rolled sheet steel 0.66
Oxidised copper 0.70
Black anodised Al 0.70
Black enamel 0.85
Dark varnish 0.89
Black oil paint 0.92
I suppose I would hae been better off with a thin flat black coating.
There are three forms of heat transfer: convection, conduction, and radiation. Materials which are transparent to infrared, like air, do not absorb or emit radiation. Thus, you would not have microscopic radiant heat between molecules.
Aluminum is EXTREMELY reactive with oxygen. It's virtually impossible to expose a piece of aluminum to the atmosphere without it immediately forming a thin film of aluminum oxide. If you scratch the surface of that film, the surface of the scratch will immediately form an aluminum oxide film. Once the film has formed, it doesn't spread down any farther through the aluminum. The entire purpose of aluminum anodization (other than the obvious aesthetic one) is to increase the thickness of this layer to an unnatural thickness. I think what you're thinking of is a 3000 series aluminum, which has pretty poor oxidation properties, and tends to get some white scale on it when it's left outside. 95 times out of 100, you'll be a 6061 or 6063 aluminum to make your housing, and this won't be an issue.
You will find that chemically etching the metal, as in anodizing, will not give you a measurable increase in heat transfer. Try to put thermal fins (like a CPU heat sink) on the body, or better yet, try to improve the thermal interface between the heat source and heat sink. Thermal greases usually outperform epoxies, so you might want to use a mechanical fastener to physically attach the LEDs, and a thermal grease to actually transfer the heat.
Coating or anodizing an aluminum housing *will* decrease the amount of heat transfer from this application. Perhaps not a significant amount, but it should be made clear that coating the housing is not that important. Especially from a functional standpoint.