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Step 3Calculating the Cloth Length
This has to be about the hardest part of making the kilt. First you have to decide how "Pleated" you want it, then you have to decide how wide to make the apron, and finally calculate the total length.
1) Decide on the Apron width. The apron is the front flat part. There are 2 aprons, the front apron, and the under (or back) apron. In the one pictured, I used a ratio of 0.45x the hip circumference. This was just about right, maybe a little less would be good, especially if you are large like me. Using my hip size of 47.5" means an apron of about 21.5". Most calculations can be rounded without issue.
2) Decide on the pleat pattern and under pleat width. You have to decide how wide you want the pleats, and how deep you want them. I wanted the final pleats to continue the pattern of the tartan (see the third picture below). I also wanted narrow pleats. In this tartan, the pattern repeated every 4-1/8 inches. I finally decided that I would use 1/4th of the pattern, or 1-1/32 inches, as my pleat width, and 1 full pattern as the under pleat width, equaling 5-5/32 inches per pleat. So it takes 5-5/32 inches of fabric to extend the kilt 1-1/32 inches around the hip.
3) Calculate the number of pleats. This is calculated by taking the hip measurement and subtracting the apron width and dividing by the pleat width. So in my example, I have a hip length of 47.5", subtracting the apron width of 21.5", leaves 26". 26" divided by 1-1/32" equals just over 25, so we'll use 25 pleats. This then means that we need 25 x 5-5/32" = 128.9" or about 3.5 yards of fabric for the pleated length alone.
3) Calculate:
Front Apron Hem: Always 10.25"
Front Apron: ___________ (In example: 47.5" x 0.45 ~ 21.5"
Front Apron Under Pleat: Always 6.25"
The pleated Length ___________ (In example: 25 x 5.15" ~ 129")
Under Apron Under Pleat: Always 6.25"
Under Apron: ____________ (In example: 21.5" same as front)
Under Apron Hem: Always 9.5"
Total: ___________ (In example: 10.25+21.5+6.5+129+6.25+21.5+9.5 = 204.5" = 5.68 yards
I suggest getting more than necessary in case you do need an extra pleat, etc, you can always cut extra off at the end, but adding more is tough.
1) Decide on the Apron width. The apron is the front flat part. There are 2 aprons, the front apron, and the under (or back) apron. In the one pictured, I used a ratio of 0.45x the hip circumference. This was just about right, maybe a little less would be good, especially if you are large like me. Using my hip size of 47.5" means an apron of about 21.5". Most calculations can be rounded without issue.
2) Decide on the pleat pattern and under pleat width. You have to decide how wide you want the pleats, and how deep you want them. I wanted the final pleats to continue the pattern of the tartan (see the third picture below). I also wanted narrow pleats. In this tartan, the pattern repeated every 4-1/8 inches. I finally decided that I would use 1/4th of the pattern, or 1-1/32 inches, as my pleat width, and 1 full pattern as the under pleat width, equaling 5-5/32 inches per pleat. So it takes 5-5/32 inches of fabric to extend the kilt 1-1/32 inches around the hip.
3) Calculate the number of pleats. This is calculated by taking the hip measurement and subtracting the apron width and dividing by the pleat width. So in my example, I have a hip length of 47.5", subtracting the apron width of 21.5", leaves 26". 26" divided by 1-1/32" equals just over 25, so we'll use 25 pleats. This then means that we need 25 x 5-5/32" = 128.9" or about 3.5 yards of fabric for the pleated length alone.
3) Calculate:
Front Apron Hem: Always 10.25"
Front Apron: ___________ (In example: 47.5" x 0.45 ~ 21.5"
Front Apron Under Pleat: Always 6.25"
The pleated Length ___________ (In example: 25 x 5.15" ~ 129")
Under Apron Under Pleat: Always 6.25"
Under Apron: ____________ (In example: 21.5" same as front)
Under Apron Hem: Always 9.5"
Total: ___________ (In example: 10.25+21.5+6.5+129+6.25+21.5+9.5 = 204.5" = 5.68 yards
I suggest getting more than necessary in case you do need an extra pleat, etc, you can always cut extra off at the end, but adding more is tough.
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