Kilt with Sash

Step 5 Front Apron

Note: the pictures below were made after the fact, I didn't take pictures while making the original, and used some left over fabric, hence the narrow apron.

With the cloth now facing with the outside of the kilt facing up, make a line 1.5" from the top, along the entire length of the cloth, this is your waist line. Make another line for the hip, the distance you measured from waist to hip (5" in my example), from the waist line.

Mark a line from top to bottom 10.25" from the left edge, this is your front apron hem line.
Mark another line from top to bottom, your apron width from the hem line (21.5" in my example). This is the Apron Right Edge.
Mark one more line, from top to bottom, 6.25" from the last line, this is the front apron under pleat.
If you are working with a pattern, you can change these a bit so the patterns line up,  as in the pictures below.

Pinch the fabric, and fold over the apron edge so it lines up with the front apron under pleat line, you should have a Z fold of fabric. Pin from the Hip to bottom. (Images 2 and 3)

Make a mark, 1.25" to the left of the front apron edge on the waist line. (Image 4)

Now, skew the fabric so this mark is inline with the remainder of the front apron. Note that the top edge should remain straight. The extra fabric will go into the under pleat. (Images 5 and 6)

Using a similar technique as the right side, do the same for the left side, again, the skewed fabric goes into the hem pleat. There should be about 2" of extra fabric beyond the end, this is the fringe. (Images 7 and 8).

Here is a lesson learned. Later we will add a strap, attached only to the front apron hem. The strap will cause the hem to pull, and cause the kilt to become loose over time while worn. Cut a piece of interfacing 3" by 3", and pin it into the front fold, with the top left corner sticking above the top edge. Trim the interfacing at the top edge. You could even make the interfacing the length of the Apron, and into the Under Pleat, a Trapazoid shape matching the top 3" of the Front Apron, so it is attached to the pleated length as well, removing any possible remaining stretch. (Thinking while writing) (Image 9)

Using a sewing machine, sew a straight stitch, from top to bottom along both edges of the apron, as close to the folds as possible, making sure to catch the interfacing when sewing the left edge (and right if making a full length interfacing).