I know I don't have time to build my machine in the real world just yet, but I put it together in the CAD world first. The idea is to have a lot of simple moving parts that create an overall, fluid look. I have designed it to be operated by hand but you could just as easily run it with a motor, miniature wind mill (for the greenies) or better yet a hamster wheel.
Practically speaking, you could also use the machine for student demonstration to illustrate the basic sine wave or the difference between wave and particle movement. Mostly it is just meant to look interesting.
Thanks for checking out my first Instructable.
Material: (Use whatever you want, this is just what I would use)
-One sheet of foam board for the base
-1/4 in balsa wood sheet for the Cams
-1/8 in base or ply wood for the Levers and uprights
- 1/4 in dowel
- Straw just big enough to slide over the dowel
- Light weight thread
- 25 heavy glass beads or fishing sinkers
- Drill x (Drill Press) & Assorted bits
- Small Triangle File
- Hobby Knife and Sand Paper
- Band or Scroll Saw (CNC Router or Laser if you’re lucky)
- In the absence of the CNC machine, lots of patience
Step 1: The Easy Part...
...if you have the CNC machine. If not put on some good music and get comfortable in front of your band saw. Attached is a PDF of the main parts and the quantities needed. You can measure them out on your material or just print the PDF off at a 1 to 1 scale, then use it as a template. Also attached is the Sketchup file. Well... start cutting. When I make mine I think I might try to find a hole saw that is the right size to create the cams. This will give a nice consistent circle with a definite center hole to measure off of.
Time lapse to several days later......
Now get up, stretch, blow the sawdust out of your nose, shake it out of your hair and go create an Instructable to win the CNC Laser machine.
Step 2: Axels
You will need to cut:
-1 piece of 1/4 in dowel @ 1 in long
-3 pieces of 1/4 in dowel @ 9 5/8 in long
-1 piece of 1/4 in dowel @ 10 in long
Now secure 2 of the 9 5/8 in dowels together with the ends flush, use tape or some thing else temporary. Starting 5/16 in from either end make a small notch in both axels using a file; continue making notches every 3/8 in until you have 25 notches. Check to make sure the thread you are going to use will slide freely in the notches.
Now take the 10 in dowel and make a mark 3/16 in from one end. Continue making a mark every 3/8 in until you have 25 total marks. These marks will be used to locate the cams. A pencil would work too.
Step 3: Lay Out the Base
Now cut out the base. You could skip this step and move on with the assembly then glue the uprights to a flat base. However, to help align the parts I would suggest cutting out the locations were the uprights will go. You can then press the uprights into place to assemble and trial fit the other parts. Once everything else is in place then you can glue the uprights in place and it should be a more rigid assembly.
The attached PDF can be printed 1 to 1 scale and used as a template. I left about an inch on either side for a stable base.
Step 4: Pylon Assembly
Cam Pylons, P1 glued to G1
Lever Pylons, P2 glued to G2
String Pylons, P3 glued to G3
Test fit them in the Base and set aside.
Step 5: The Cam Worm
Now take the 10 in dowel that you previously marked. Slide the first cam into place as shown to the first mark made in the previous step. Use quick set glue like CA to secure it in place.
Slide the next cam down to its position as shown. Use the drill bit that made the alignment holes or another small dowel to properly index this cam relative to the first.
Yep, now do it again and again until you have all 25 cams in place on the dowel. This is now the Cam Worm. (It looks like a worm from the side)
Step 6: Levers, Strings & Beads
Step 7: String Pylon & Guides
Step 8: Placing the Cam Worm
Step 9: Levers
Now take the large straw and cut 24 sections about 3/16 in.
Take the last 9 5/8 in axel and Glue it into ONE of the P2G2 pylons as shown. Then press the Pylon into the base but do not glue it yet.
Starting with one of the levers, alternate sliding on the levers and straw sections. You may want to brace the unsupported end of the axel so you can place the strings on their guides to keep them from tangling. Repeat until all the levers are in place separated by the straws for proper spacing.
Now fit the last P2G2 pylon onto the end of the axel and press into its location on the base. Do a free spin check to make sure everything is working properly. If all is well, glue the axel to the pylon and both pylons to the base.