Step 11: Extras

Etching: It's nice to have a little makers mark, or write something down into your blade. Another instructables member has a nice instructable on engraving, but I'll quickly cover it here too. You want to use nail polish, coat the blade with it, and use something to scrape the nail polish off. Write what you want with that tool. Then, you let the nail polish fully dry, and attach the positive end of a 9v battery to the metal, and the negative end to a q tip. Dip the q tip, with the negative wire, into salt water, and rest the q tip on the etching area. You should see bubbles, it's etching. Let it eat for awhile, switch new q tips, and redip in salt water. Stop when you think it's deep enough. The longer it stays, the more likely it will be less clear. Use nail polish remover to clean up. 

For my mark, I used duct tape. I cut out the image in duct tape, and duct taped the blade. The metal you expose is the metal that will be etched. Then, same as above, positive end to metal, negative to q tip, and etched the design in. 

Filework: You can use small files to create an intricate design into the back of your knife. I attempted a vine pattern on the back of mine. I used a round file and triangular, and filed in the vine. Then, I smoothed out the corners, to make the vine more curvy. A quick search on the internet for knife file work tutorials will yield a lot more patterns. 
<p>Great job I really like the feel look of the handle. Very raw.</p>
<p>Wow! Great looking knife, very throrough tutorial! </p>
hey can you use a Dremel tool
When it comes to cutting out the rough knife shape a would recommend an angle grinder. It makes it 10x easier and it give it a very nice edge after some practice. To me using a drill and hacksaw makes it a little rough but like u said anything will work with patience. But overall I definitely say its a good instructable.
Yes, that would go a lot faster, but angle grinders are a bit pricey. My goal was to make this without going broke at the same time haha.
I'm not sure exactly what your price range is but i just buy cheap chinese made ones from harbor freight for 20$. and even though they are cheap as long as you dont run them for more than like 5 minutes straight it wont overheat or anything.
I was just looking at Home Depot for an angle grinder/ cut-off tool that wasn't a made-in-Chinamart p.o.s. and even the brands that you would think were still made in the U.S. were shipped out. The closest I found was made in Mexico and I think that was from Rigid.
Okay, sorry bout all the questions, thanks for the help
Haha, no problem. It takes a lot of information to get started.
Would I be able to tell if I used an angle grinder?
Hmm. Annealed doesn't really matter- I know some knife makers choose to harden the blade first, and then grind the edge with a belt sander. The important thing is that you remove the steel. As long as steel's being taken off, it doesn't really matter how hard the steel is. The problem with an angle grinder is overheating. The blade should never become too hot to touch. But if the angle grinder is not removing steel, then anneal it.
I just got my steel( 1080 1/8 in from USA knife maker) how can I tell if it's annealed already or not?
Try to file it. Use almost no pressure, and just let the weight of the file travel across the steel. If it bites on the edge of the bar, most likely it is annealed. If it skims off, it may not be annealed. Basically, if you can file it or not. There are different degrees of annealing, and as long as you can comfortably work the steel, you will be fine.
Okay cool, thanks
Can't wait, got my 1080 steel on its way.. And do I just put some salt along the length of the blade?
I just sprinkled some on the blade when it was nice and red hot.
What did you use between the magnet and knife? Would an old towel work?
Nice work with annealing, I never thought of using salt to know when PC steel is 1500 F, I always just used the color of the steel. I knew that once it was above its curie temperature it losses it magnetic properties, but never actually used a magnet on that metal! If you had any reason I'm curious why you quenched the steel in oil, and not a brine. I know a brine lowers the temperature much faster than oil, I'm just curious if you wanted to slow the quench for any reason. But awesome instuctable, I plan on making a knife one day and this is defiantly helpful.
You're right, brine would lower the temperature faster, and it would probably make the steel harder as well. However, I chose oil because I was going to make the steel a bit softer anyways, through tempering, since this knife was going to be batoned through wood, and all sorts of other tasks. Additionally, a brine quench would be more risky than oil. By lowering the temperature so fast, the risk of cracks and warps, especially at the thin edge, is a lot higher. A lot of other makers have had their blades crack from salt, and since this was my first knife, and my experience was almost negative, I decided to go with the simpler oil.
All shiv jokes aside, well done!
You sir, would do well in prison.
good instructable! I like the overall design of your knife, however, i think you should have spent more time getting your blade even and handle more squared. looks a little rough in a few areas, but great job, i want to try this etching method! i use a steel letter tamp.
Nice Instructable! I've been playing with the idea of making a knife recently and I'm interested in how others are going about making them. How and when did you add the maker mark to the blade?
I explained it under extras, but someone made a better instructable on etching. http://www.instructables.com/id/Etching-Knife-Blades/ <br>I hope he's okay with me linking it, if not, I'll take it off. But towards the end, after heat treating and cleaning the blade. I used duct tape to cut out a stencil, and then etched it in using electricity.
Not sure how I missed the Extras page but thanks for the reply and additional info!
i like it! very nice instructable, specially the etching part!

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