Step 7: Tempering

The easiest step I believe. Put the blade into your oven, and bake it for 415F for 2 hours. Once it's done, take it out, let it cool, and back in at 415 for 2 hours. This relieves the stress in the blade, allowing it not to shatter when sneezed on. Shouldn't be any problems here. 

However, don't delay at all. I had mine in the oven before it was cold. Don't put it in steaming hot, just at a nice warm touchable temperature. The more you delay, the more likely you'll bump it and have it shatter. It's like having an open wound, there's no reason to leave it exposed to bacteria and all that stuff. 
<p>Great job I really like the feel look of the handle. Very raw.</p>
<p>Wow! Great looking knife, very throrough tutorial! </p>
hey can you use a Dremel tool
When it comes to cutting out the rough knife shape a would recommend an angle grinder. It makes it 10x easier and it give it a very nice edge after some practice. To me using a drill and hacksaw makes it a little rough but like u said anything will work with patience. But overall I definitely say its a good instructable.
Yes, that would go a lot faster, but angle grinders are a bit pricey. My goal was to make this without going broke at the same time haha.
I'm not sure exactly what your price range is but i just buy cheap chinese made ones from harbor freight for 20$. and even though they are cheap as long as you dont run them for more than like 5 minutes straight it wont overheat or anything.
I was just looking at Home Depot for an angle grinder/ cut-off tool that wasn't a made-in-Chinamart p.o.s. and even the brands that you would think were still made in the U.S. were shipped out. The closest I found was made in Mexico and I think that was from Rigid.
Okay, sorry bout all the questions, thanks for the help
Haha, no problem. It takes a lot of information to get started.
Would I be able to tell if I used an angle grinder?
Hmm. Annealed doesn't really matter- I know some knife makers choose to harden the blade first, and then grind the edge with a belt sander. The important thing is that you remove the steel. As long as steel's being taken off, it doesn't really matter how hard the steel is. The problem with an angle grinder is overheating. The blade should never become too hot to touch. But if the angle grinder is not removing steel, then anneal it.
I just got my steel( 1080 1/8 in from USA knife maker) how can I tell if it's annealed already or not?
Try to file it. Use almost no pressure, and just let the weight of the file travel across the steel. If it bites on the edge of the bar, most likely it is annealed. If it skims off, it may not be annealed. Basically, if you can file it or not. There are different degrees of annealing, and as long as you can comfortably work the steel, you will be fine.
Okay cool, thanks
Can't wait, got my 1080 steel on its way.. And do I just put some salt along the length of the blade?
I just sprinkled some on the blade when it was nice and red hot.
What did you use between the magnet and knife? Would an old towel work?
Nice work with annealing, I never thought of using salt to know when PC steel is 1500 F, I always just used the color of the steel. I knew that once it was above its curie temperature it losses it magnetic properties, but never actually used a magnet on that metal! If you had any reason I'm curious why you quenched the steel in oil, and not a brine. I know a brine lowers the temperature much faster than oil, I'm just curious if you wanted to slow the quench for any reason. But awesome instuctable, I plan on making a knife one day and this is defiantly helpful.
You're right, brine would lower the temperature faster, and it would probably make the steel harder as well. However, I chose oil because I was going to make the steel a bit softer anyways, through tempering, since this knife was going to be batoned through wood, and all sorts of other tasks. Additionally, a brine quench would be more risky than oil. By lowering the temperature so fast, the risk of cracks and warps, especially at the thin edge, is a lot higher. A lot of other makers have had their blades crack from salt, and since this was my first knife, and my experience was almost negative, I decided to go with the simpler oil.
All shiv jokes aside, well done!
You sir, would do well in prison.
good instructable! I like the overall design of your knife, however, i think you should have spent more time getting your blade even and handle more squared. looks a little rough in a few areas, but great job, i want to try this etching method! i use a steel letter tamp.
Nice Instructable! I've been playing with the idea of making a knife recently and I'm interested in how others are going about making them. How and when did you add the maker mark to the blade?
I explained it under extras, but someone made a better instructable on etching. http://www.instructables.com/id/Etching-Knife-Blades/ <br>I hope he's okay with me linking it, if not, I'll take it off. But towards the end, after heat treating and cleaning the blade. I used duct tape to cut out a stencil, and then etched it in using electricity.
Not sure how I missed the Extras page but thanks for the reply and additional info!
i like it! very nice instructable, specially the etching part!

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