This Instructable is layed out assuming that you know jack-didly about knife throwing.
You may ask yourself, "Why do I need to learn to throw knives?"
Well that's a good question, but the answere is even better...
What if the fall of western civilization knocks on your door tommorrow?
What if zombies.... Okay I'm just joking. (But it could happen ;) )
A good reason to take the time to learn this art is simply because it's fun. Remember when you were a kid learning to play poker for the first time? What about chess? Any game like that really. Why do we play those games? How do they intertain us?
They're a challange. It makes you think about what you're doing, what you want to happen, and why it did or did not happen.
Not to mention that you'll be able to cleave razor sharp shinny things through the air when you're done. (And actually hit what you where aiming at)
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Signing UpStep 1: Picking a knife to throw
There are thousands upon thousands of commercially available throwing knives out there. Different styles are plentiful; some are great, some are useless. "Leaf Throwers" are among my favorites, their characteristic "Leaf" shaped symmetrical blade is where there name comes from. There are also some more trditionally shaped single edged knives, and nonsymmetrical double edged knives like the "Hibben Pro 2" and it's copies, there's even a totally bizare "Torpedo" which is a round double pointed throwing rod, and many more. There are also knives with positionable weights on the handle and blade, personally I think these are usless.
You can technically throw any knife with a suitable ballance point. Knives with bulky handles are a bad idea, and you generally want to stay away from folders, due to there handles they can be very inaccurate and they tend to ballance funny.
For this Instructable, I did however pick a folder, so it can be done. But I suggest against it for someone new to throwing.
In fact a Leaf Thrower is what I'd suggest you start learning with.
Here are some of the knives I discrbed...









































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kitchen knives are a big no no.
get some nice thick knives to throw. Kitchen knives are thin flopping fish cutting instruments. The give off a nice TWANG when they hit the targer and the wobble a lot, but if the point bounces off, your mom will soon be able to recognize the dreaded " I've been used for throwing" bends in the knife
the CRKT m16??? are you guys crazy??? it's that 40 dollar folding knife that I trailed after for so long and didn't get. If folders are thrown, they'll most likely break.
In fact you can also through forks, spoons, spanners and even hammers, they just take a hell of a lot of practice to get the technique right . With spoons you'll need to sharpen the edge of the bowl (file,grinder etc). Spanners and hammers are generally used as bludgeoning instruments when thrown ( ie hit the target with the F'n heavy end hard ). Throwing axes are good too ( my uncles particular party specialty ).
I learn't to throw forks and spoons basically through laziness and curiosity. At one stage I only had 8 or 9 knives and 5-6 bo shurikin ( throwing spikes ) and got sick of walking back and forth to the target ( 6ft x 3ft box ). Initially I thought what the heck a pen is basically a spike that writes I'll give them a go. The cheapies aren't much chop ( no weight to 'em ) but the heavy metal cased ones can be thrown ( use a dartboard so they stick ) but don't expect to be writing much with them afterwards.
Once I ran out of pens I thought oh well forks are sharp too, I'll give them a go. Working out the balance ( round where the bend in the is normally ) and getting the technique took a while but I got there. After I ran out of forks I thought
gee a spoon is basically a blunt fork without slots ( think spork ) out came the file and the rest is history.
Ps if you do the spoon thing make sure you keep them separate to your regular cutlery after sharpening their edges. Otherwise having a "bloody good feed" will be a literal experience and messy.
Also, really really sharp edges are not so important as really really sharp points. In other words, the edges on each side of a leaf thrower (where you grip it) don't need to be sharp. The point and the edge just forward of the widest part of the blade (see image) should be sharp because this is the area of the blade that actually makes the hole during penetration.