Lighting in this video is bad, i apologize, you kinda see whats happening.
Loosing problems is about predicting them before they occur , was originally planning to put the switch in the handle and run the wires through the shaft, and was also looking at putting AA batteries in the shaft , then i found a lithium cell holder and it got a whole lot simpler.
• Latching switch on the handle would be more prone to damage from other clubs in the bag.
• Live external wire would look messy.an internal wire would be needed.
• Loosening the head may happen if drilling the head where it meets the shaft , to route wire.
• Locking cap would be needed when having batteries and wire in a metal shaft , theres also a short risk.
• Lazer parts as they might not like negative earth ,if i use the shaft as a conductor,
Step 1: Notes on Lazer
- Nice line lazer, too good to smash up ,it was a christmas present. pic 1.
- Not so nice one used in this club, a budget lazer line tape measure combo .plastic grip has gone sticky. pic 3-6
- Nearly lost the lens when this split open in an explosion of plastic and metal.
Step 2: Spreading a Dot Into a Line
- Spot lazer's can easily be be converted to make a line ,
- Segment of clear biro works well and they are obtainable everywhere as far as i know..
- Small cylindrical piece of glass will be good, wine glass stem , or cocktail plastic stirrer.
Step 3: Hot Glue and Solder Time
Below is a short video of the nuts and bolts end of the assembly
• Having a premade stock lithium cell holder would have been quicker.
• Hot glue holds the lazer on target..
• Holding the solder joints above the metal surface is done with a sticky pad.
• Harder epoxy glue was necessary to hold the lens in place.
• Having superglue near or on lens parts fogs them up. dont do it.
Step 4: Making It Look Less Like a Big Blob of Jellyfish Poop on Your Putter.
• Masking off the switch and battery with plasticine.
• Modeling it in a way that it acts as a mould for the filler.
• Maintaining the the lines and general shape of the head are a must.
Step 5: Blobby Blobby Blobby
- Building up layers is an option
- But life is too short for doing things properly.
- Being bigger than the intended final shape is the goal here.
Step 6: Porridge Rubber Cutter
- Porridge stage is just after sticky,and moments before rubbery.and has distinct texture.
- Prodding leftover filler with your finger will guide you.
- Pebbelly and grainy tells you to get ready with a sharp knife.
- Proceed to shave the blob into an approximate shape.
- Paring off here saves a lot of filing sanding time and effort.
- Peeling off is also possible at this stage,so cut along and toward edges.
Step 7: File
- Feathering the edges where the materials meet.
- Feeling for tool marks and grooves left by the blade.
Step 8: Abrasive Paper
And now it should start looking and feeling like a nice object .
Step 9: Remove the Mask
Revealing a fully functional switch and removable battery.
Step 10: Options of Colour
- Originally was going with bright yellow enamel paint.
- Overpaintable after many hours, it was getting poor coverage,
- Over several coats it will become lumpy.
- Overturned my decision and wiped it off while still sticky.
- Ordinary duct tape worked as a mask for the face and shaft.
- Only spray colour i have to hand is rover nightfire red.
- Once red was dry i remove the mask.
- Oxidisation of the face over time has made it dull and grey.
- Oval motion with wet and dry paper 2000 grit get the face back to shiney and smooth
- Old school wadding polish getsit to a mirror shine.