I wanted to experiment with a lot of LED;s on AC mains, and this is the result.

I have used 160 white LED's for this project and it has been a success.

It gives a bright light and is suitable for the Drawing room, or the Dining room.'

You can have a Candlelight dinner without the candles.

Hang it from the ceiling and you have a decorative light. It is easy to make and is also cheap.

Step 1: STEP-1

List of parts.

1. Extra bright white LED's =160 pieces
2. Motorcycle Wheel SPOKES = 4 pieces
3. Perforated Hard board of required size = 1 piece
4. Stepdown Transformer 220 volts to 12 volts 1 piece of 2 Amps.(Used in Stereo Amplifier)
5. Male Electrical 2 pin PLUG = 1 piece.
6. Solder wire.
7. Connecting Electrical wires as needed.
8. Tools for Electronic wireing.
Dear sir, <br>in between also is it to be soldered MEANS WHERE FIRST ROW AND BELOW ROW(2nd) WHERE THEY ARE CROSSING (top one to bottom 2 and bottom 1 to top 2 at this junction) <br>PL TELL I AM NEW TO THIS ELECTRONICS SIDE.
Yes the crossing is to be soldered.
can i have the schematic digram?
It is the same as in STEP-3.
Wow! It's amazing!I like it,really it! I will try out this!
This is a fantastic project, well done!
Very nice idea. I was thinking of something similar but caculating the number of LEDs to run directly at 260V (should be high enough to avoid spike damage). <br> <br>I notice that all mains LED bulbs are only rated at 230V, when here in Oz we're 240V, which means the odd encounter with 260V is not uncommon.
Truth is... A/C mains are all engineered to ABOUT 240 volts. 120/240/480 is the theoretically convenient figures with the way mankind engineered power generation. In the US, some things say 110, some 115, and some 120 volts A/C, but it is ALL SEMANTICS. My home measures 113 VAC, at my office, 116VAC... my office, by the way, it AT the power plant! heh heh<br><br>your issue in OZ is a matter of semantics still... 230, 240, 220, BAH! It's all the same and NONE are exact. the nature of the power systems doesn't require it to be exact. AC circuits dont need to be exact, and when we need more exact power for precision devices, we use DC circuits that are rectified, stepped down and regulated to the precise power needed, which is always WAY WELL BELOW the 120 or 240 volts from the mains...!<br><br>Hope this informs people... I know I had a EUREKA moment when I put it all together years ago!<br><br>
Very Correct, AC voltage is never stable..................
Hi Treknology,<br>This is NOT run on 230 volts but through a transformer which brings down the voltage to 12 volts.<br>You can use a transformer of 240 / 12 volts.<br>then calculate the number of LED's to use in one line.<br>So, to find out what a transformer can support:<br><br>Measure its output:<br>- If it is AC, use the V-AC scale on your multimeter, and multiply the results by 1.4 to get V-peak<br>- If it is DC, use the V-DC scale read out V-peak.<br>The number of white (or blue) LEDs it can support is:<br>- Vpeak / 3.3 and round up to the next integer. (E.g 4.2 is 5)<br>(Use V-peak / 2 for Red, Orange and Yellow LEDs)<br>That is the number of LEDs you can put in a series to operate off the transformer safely.<br>For AC circuits, you will need to duplicate another chain in the opposite polarity.<br>LEDs can be any current, as long as they are all the same, and the transformer has the current (A or mA) to support it.<br>Note: AC transformers can also have a VA rating instead of amps - just divide that number by the volts to get amps.<br><br>
I was aiming at maximum efficiency and longest life. The LED specs that I used for my calculation came up to 80 LEDs running on 240VAC as a single string consuming approximately 5W. I allowed up to 260VAC so that it wouldn't just blow out suddenly. That was using a bridge rectifier, or I could increase it 160 LEDs if I ran two strings in reverse to each other as you have suggested.<br><br>I certainly agree that if one wants room to play with the LEDs then ELV is pretty much compulsory. It would be so much easier and cheaper if we all used the 400VAC 400Hz standard.
Hi, <br> <br>Wouldnt it be possible to make a series big enougf to connect it directly to 220V? <br> <br>Nice work!
Yes but risky,<br>230 x 1.4 = 322<br>322 divide by 3.5 = 92 LEd's.<br>92 LED's on + side and<br>92 LED's on - side<br>total 184 LED's are required to run it on 220 vols AC.
But sir if we add a bridge rectifier, we would only need 92 leds, right?<br>Also sir why did you multiply 220 by 1.4?
READ MY ANSWER TO Treknology, below <br>to know the mystery of the 1:4
Don't you have to worry about the current jumping gaps eventually...?
AC current is a plus minus thing, first it goes one way and then the other way. That is why all four legs of each LED's are connected at the center.
ok I have a question I get what to do with those three rows for the sides but what do you do for the bottom because I don't think you explained it?
Study the circuit carefully and you will get your answer.
Also for step 2 in the middle are they all connected or is the negative led snaking under or over the positive line?
all four leads(not leds) are soldered in the middle.
1 leg of all 4 LED's are connected at the center. RIGHT.
I assume you could add a Capacitor to smooth the supply and limit the flicker if it did bother you!?
Because this is fully AC, not DC with an AC component, a capacitor will not do anything to reduce ficker. Some addtional changes would be necessary: change the polarity of all the diodes to point the same way, add a bridge rectifier to the output of the step-down transformer, then add a substantial amount of capacitance to reduce flicker.
Make this Instructable and then see it practically, the flicker is negligible as the LED's are close together.<br/>The flicker is more if the distance of the LED's are more. <br/><strong>YOU DO NOT NEED ANY CHANGE</strong><br/>Adding a bridge rectifier will not work on AC.<br/><strong>This is intentionally made for AC current.</strong><br/>WHY DO YOU WANT TO CONVERT IT TO DC<strong></strong><br/>
Some people are more sensitive to flicker than others. At any distance, looking at the lamp out of the corner of your eye is likely to show the flicker. While I can understand your desire to reduce part count and cost, as well as increase the simplicity of the design, the change from AC to DC is small, and eliminates any flicker. You've already used a transformer to drop the voltage to a more manageable level. Many AC-only designs even skip the transformer and use much longer serial strings of diodes. Aligning the polarity of the LEDs and adding a bridge rectifier and a smoothing capacitor are pretty trivial, if someone were building a new lamp.
You possibly wouldnt need to use four standard diodes as you have 160 of them sat in front of you :)
Hi Plaidomatic, Changng to DC becomes costly with many addtional parts. A little un- noticeable flicker is overlooked. Your 4 ft. fluorescent tube also gives a flicker.
No, to change to DC you only have to add a single monolithic bridge rectifier and a single large electrolytic capacitor. A fluorescent tube does have flicker, yes, but it will be less than AC LEDs because of the persistence of the phosphor in the tube. Also, I said before, some people are rather more sensitive to flicker than others, and are even disturbed by the flicker of fluorescents.
Hi Plaidomatic, Only adding a Bridge Rectrier will not work. You have to change the circuit to DC. I don't think One capacitor will work and what about resisrors? You have said " then add a substantial amount of capacitance to reduce flicker." If you change the circuit for DC then there will be no flicker, agreed, but DC circuit costs more as you still have to have a Transformer.
As I stated before, changing the rest of the circuit to DC primarily requires aligning the polarity of the LEDs. No resistors are necessary. The amount of capacitance necessary would be substantial, but there are large individual capacitors that can do the job. There's nothing wrong at all with your design. I applaud its simplicity and elegance. However, should someone want to convert it to DC, I was only trying to point out that it could be done simply and with little additional expense.
Thank you.
Mmmm it was a passing thought and the answers are often explained better in the comments which I now read before leaving a comment as it gets taken the wrong way. (Spoke out loud really lol!) Moving away from this topic my concern swiftly turned to controlling the current which I know is easily achieved by converting the design to DC and as you kindly mentioned would also eliminate any flicker. Which would bother me! (Personal choice) Having learned alot about LED's and DC set ups, my comments were NOT intended to undermine Dipankar's design but left in an attempt to fully understand it and learn more about AC Circuits. I personally would NOT attempt to use any homemade LED Light AC or DC in my home without fully understanding its Concept. Many thanks Plaidomatic for your constructive answer
There is practically no flicker, as the LED's are so close together.
Could you attach a dimmer knob to this?
Usb power this is this possible 12v usb??
NO.<br>This is specially made to run on 220 volt AC.<br><br>To run it on 12 v USB a different type of Circuit in required.
Hi, <br> <br>Woulnt it be possible to make some series big enoughf to connect directly to 220V? <br> <br>Nice work!
great project!!! im looking to try out this weekend. i am going to order some parts; do you have a part # or specs for the LEDs? also, what is the current rating for the wiring as i'm looking to make it as sleek and trim as possible.<br /> <br /> thanks.<br /> <br /> PS any voltage/amperage/power calcs are nice (or links to them)...<br />
Extra bright white LED's 5mm, 10000 to 20000 mcd.<br /> Better to follow the same circuit but you can change the shape as you like.<br /> I designed this circuit on my own so I don't have any link for it.<br /> Good hunting.<br /> <br />
Are you sure they make LEDs that bright? I can't find anything above 6000 mcd unless it's considered an &quot;ultra-bright&quot; and costs $6 per unit.
YES and that too it is very cheap. $ 10 for 500. This according to Indian Rupees is, 500 LED for 450 Rupees. (Chinese make)
Hey, this is really cool, but I'm a bit of a n00b with LEDs (everything I tries works for a minute, or never works at all). I'm going to have to ask that you explain the transformer a bit more. From what your saying, you're running it on AC current, whereas I though LEDs worked on DC. I also don't understand what you took the transformer from/where you acquired it. I'm only 17, so have mercy on me! Thanks, Pat C.
Hello iTinker, See all my INSTRUCTABLES, many of which is on LED's. LED works on AC and DC. to get more info send me your e-mail Id.
&nbsp;This is awesome! I'm halfway done mine, and everything seems to be going well so far, just hope it looks as good as yours when it's done.&nbsp;<br /> <br /> I think I will try another when I am done, but drilling holes into plexiglass to make it more stable, yet keeping that translucent look so you can see the wiring!<br /> <br /> Great instructable, keep them coming!<br />
<img alt="" src="../../../img/pro2.gif" style="margin-right: 3.0px;" /><a class="entryListTitle" href="../../../../member/micobanff/" rel="nofollow" style="line-height: 16.0px;padding-left: 0.0px;">Hi micobanff</a>,<br /> Plexiglass is a good idea,<br /> Let me know if you have any problems.<br /> DG.........<br />
I'd love to try out this instructable but with battery rather than mains. Would I be right in thinking that a 12v battery would be sufficient? If not, any ideas?<br />

About This Instructable


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Bio: Now I am a retired person, who enjoys life and making small things to pass the time keep myself busy.
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