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LED CHANDELIER

LED CHANDELIER
I wanted to experiment with a lot of LED;s on AC mains, and this is the result.

I have used 160 white LED's for this project and it has been a success.

It gives a bright light and is suitable for the Drawing room, or the Dining room.'

You can have a Candlelight dinner without the candles.

Hang it from the ceiling and you have a decorative light. It is easy to make and is also cheap.
 
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Step 1STEP-1

STEP-1
List of parts.

1. Extra bright white LED's =160 pieces
2. Motorcycle Wheel SPOKES = 4 pieces
3. Perforated Hard board of required size = 1 piece
4. Stepdown Transformer 220 volts to 12 volts 1 piece of 2 Amps.(Used in Stereo Amplifier)
5. Male Electrical 2 pin PLUG = 1 piece.
6. Solder wire.
7. Connecting Electrical wires as needed.
8. Tools for Electronic wireing.
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221 comments
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Sep 8, 2010. 7:28 AMTreknology says:
Very nice idea. I was thinking of something similar but caculating the number of LEDs to run directly at 260V (should be high enough to avoid spike damage).

I notice that all mains LED bulbs are only rated at 230V, when here in Oz we're 240V, which means the odd encounter with 260V is not uncommon.
Nov 12, 2011. 2:54 AMckoellein says:
Truth is... A/C mains are all engineered to ABOUT 240 volts. 120/240/480 is the theoretically convenient figures with the way mankind engineered power generation. In the US, some things say 110, some 115, and some 120 volts A/C, but it is ALL SEMANTICS. My home measures 113 VAC, at my office, 116VAC... my office, by the way, it AT the power plant! heh heh

your issue in OZ is a matter of semantics still... 230, 240, 220, BAH! It's all the same and NONE are exact. the nature of the power systems doesn't require it to be exact. AC circuits dont need to be exact, and when we need more exact power for precision devices, we use DC circuits that are rectified, stepped down and regulated to the precise power needed, which is always WAY WELL BELOW the 120 or 240 volts from the mains...!

Hope this informs people... I know I had a EUREKA moment when I put it all together years ago!

Nov 11, 2011. 8:11 PMTreknology says:
I was aiming at maximum efficiency and longest life. The LED specs that I used for my calculation came up to 80 LEDs running on 240VAC as a single string consuming approximately 5W. I allowed up to 260VAC so that it wouldn't just blow out suddenly. That was using a bridge rectifier, or I could increase it 160 LEDs if I ran two strings in reverse to each other as you have suggested.

I certainly agree that if one wants room to play with the LEDs then ELV is pretty much compulsory. It would be so much easier and cheaper if we all used the 400VAC 400Hz standard.
Apr 5, 2011. 3:44 PMbombix says:
Hi,

Wouldnt it be possible to make a series big enougf to connect it directly to 220V?

Nice work!
Oct 14, 2011. 2:12 AMqwerty156 says:
But sir if we add a bridge rectifier, we would only need 92 leds, right?
Also sir why did you multiply 220 by 1.4?
Sep 10, 2011. 9:34 AMviolentorchid says:
Don't you have to worry about the current jumping gaps eventually...?
Jun 21, 2011. 11:05 AMtyler303047 says:
ok I have a question I get what to do with those three rows for the sides but what do you do for the bottom because I don't think you explained it?
Jun 21, 2011. 11:08 AMtyler303047 says:
Also for step 2 in the middle are they all connected or is the negative led snaking under or over the positive line?
Sep 9, 2011. 2:36 PMjosh1324 says:
all four leads(not leds) are soldered in the middle.
Jun 3, 2011. 12:03 PMlauralbaby says:
Could you attach a dimmer knob to this?
May 1, 2011. 5:27 PMrory.ashton11 says:
Usb power this is this possible 12v usb??
Apr 5, 2011. 3:42 PMbombix says:
Hi,

Woulnt it be possible to make some series big enoughf to connect directly to 220V?

Nice work!
Jan 10, 2011. 9:51 PMyoitsmyhomielauren says:
Hey, I like this a lot, so I decided I'm going to try it out with my dad's help.

Since I know nearly nothing about LEDs, I'm not entirely sure how the whole voltage thing works. If I used a stepdown transformer (220 volts to 12 volts), as you listed, would that mean that I would need to purchase 12 volt LEDs??

Thanks for any response!
Jan 11, 2011. 2:26 PMyoitsmyhomielauren says:
Thanks! I was really confused for a bit.
Apr 12, 2010. 10:21 AMhrschbck says:
great project!!! im looking to try out this weekend. i am going to order some parts; do you have a part # or specs for the LEDs? also, what is the current rating for the wiring as i'm looking to make it as sleek and trim as possible.

thanks.

PS any voltage/amperage/power calcs are nice (or links to them)...
Sep 5, 2010. 12:32 AMDead-Portalist says:
Are you sure they make LEDs that bright? I can't find anything above 6000 mcd unless it's considered an "ultra-bright" and costs $6 per unit.
Aug 24, 2010. 5:01 PMiTinker says:
Hey, this is really cool, but I'm a bit of a n00b with LEDs (everything I tries works for a minute, or never works at all). I'm going to have to ask that you explain the transformer a bit more. From what your saying, you're running it on AC current, whereas I though LEDs worked on DC. I also don't understand what you took the transformer from/where you acquired it. I'm only 17, so have mercy on me! Thanks, Pat C.
May 7, 2010. 12:34 PMmicobanff says:
 This is awesome! I'm halfway done mine, and everything seems to be going well so far, just hope it looks as good as yours when it's done. 

I think I will try another when I am done, but drilling holes into plexiglass to make it more stable, yet keeping that translucent look so you can see the wiring!

Great instructable, keep them coming!
May 1, 2010. 6:33 AMvez87 says:
I'd love to try out this instructable but with battery rather than mains. Would I be right in thinking that a 12v battery would be sufficient? If not, any ideas?
Mar 25, 2010. 12:37 AMSkyriam says:
This is very interesting!!! Just one thing, I don't really understand how the electricity flows. You have LED1's cathode connected to LED2's cathode... from what I've learned, it's impossible for the electricity to flow through the LED's since you need to connect them + to -, anode to cathode, the same way you would connect batteries in series, or LEDs for that matter... please correct me if wrong. Thanks!! keep up the great work.
Jun 19, 2009. 12:56 PMphoenixdoitall says:
I assume you could add a Capacitor to smooth the supply and limit the flicker if it did bother you!?
Jul 8, 2009. 3:42 PMPlaidomatic says:
Because this is fully AC, not DC with an AC component, a capacitor will not do anything to reduce ficker. Some addtional changes would be necessary: change the polarity of all the diodes to point the same way, add a bridge rectifier to the output of the step-down transformer, then add a substantial amount of capacitance to reduce flicker.
Jul 10, 2009. 6:27 PMPlaidomatic says:
No, to change to DC you only have to add a single monolithic bridge rectifier and a single large electrolytic capacitor. A fluorescent tube does have flicker, yes, but it will be less than AC LEDs because of the persistence of the phosphor in the tube. Also, I said before, some people are rather more sensitive to flicker than others, and are even disturbed by the flicker of fluorescents.
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Author:Dipankar(http://authorschoise.blogspot.)
Now I am a retired person, who enjoys life and making small things to pass the time keep myself busy.