Step 5: Neaten It Up

Once you've soldered the boards together it's time to neaten them up. There are a number of things you can do.

Remove excess flux:
Flux helps the solder flow and make good contacts however it does look pretty nasty when dried and is best getting rid of for that beautiful look. The best way to do this is you dab at the board with a rag which you've soaked in acetone. Where abouts would you get acetone I hear you cry ? Well you can get it some art shops, you can also buy it at some boating/marine shops as a part of the fibreglass range, however the best source is in fact cheap nail varnish remover. So head down to your nearest cheap pharmacist and start looking for the cheapest nail varnish removers. I'm talking about 49p for 200ml, my past experience shows that this comes in pink bottles.

Clean up the edges of the boards:
This is as simple as sanding the edges of the board down so that they're smooth and flat. It's also quite nice to round the edges.

And that's is about it for the moment.
hello <br>how are you all ? <br>That is nice and this is great idea but how i can make RGB Led where i use mikroC PRO <br>Please Advice me <br>Thank you in Advance
nice work sir, can you please clear me the code, i mean can you paste the code as the answer of my comment
Do you have the eagle schematic for lazy people like me so I don't have to recreate the &quot;wheel&quot;?
The "Blue Dot Matrix" was done by the Germans about 20 years ago. China now makes a 2" cube module. It has 7 l.e.d in a column and 5 in a row. They also make these for segmented applications as well.
Yes, you are right. <br>by the way, we are the led products manufacturer ( led display) <br>I think you can come to our website for more informations about led. www.leda-display.com
I really need the work you do but does it scroll? because I need that one which scrolls
The scrolling would be entirely in the code, not the hardware, so yes it could be made to scroll. I have not worked with this particular uC, so I can't help you figure it out though.
Hi! This is a really cool project!<br>I have a question. If I want to glow only LED (2,2), I must set row 2 at 0 V and column 2 at 5 V (so that current will flow through the LED). Also, other rows- 1,3,4 and 5 should be set to 5 V and columns 1,3,4 and 5 to 0 V. But now all LEDs except the ones in row 2 and column 2 are reverse-biased with 5 V reverse voltage. Most LEDs have maximum reverse voltage of 5 V. Is it safe to use this design?
I was wondering how you solved the random dim LED problem. Im using an arduino and 595 shift register. At first I found the problem to be that there needs to be a 1-2ms delay in between latch pin high and low but after adding more code to control more lights it came back and delays are not the problem. Thanks.
y have u used serial out and in................. i seem to ve a problem, how will this display the desired charecters... to get A i will enable col 1,2,3 then i will also for row 1,2,3 then the output will be x x x x x x x x x but i dont want the middle light in the 3ed row to be enabled how to solve the problem...............
multiplexing is the answer of your problem sir!..<br />
i want to make this, but I dont know how to use a micro controller, i could have board covered with switches, THAT would be cool
same here i cannot use a micro controller so maybe toggle switches? :P
pinski1 you mentioned that you was not able to find the blue displays you wanted so you made your own.<br /> well allow me to share with you this site, they make all sorts of displays and in all sized and colors.<br /> heres the link.. enjoy :o)<br /> <br /> <a href="https://www.lc-led.com/ecommerce2.html" rel="nofollow">https://www.lc-led.com/ecommerce2.html</a><br /> <br />
Yeah, but here you can make your own for less, and besides, there you have to buy atleast 3
Whats the purpose of the top and side&nbsp;connectors, couldn't you just hook it&nbsp;directly&nbsp;to the picaxe?
&nbsp;You you look at the pictures you'll see that the boards are about 1&quot; by 0.75&quot; very very little space for the LEDs, let alone the PICAXE as well, so it needed to go on 2 boards. There was also the problem of only having single sided board.<br /> <br /> Of course this was done many many years ago, knowing what I do now, I&nbsp;could&nbsp;probably fit the same&nbsp;thing noto a single PCB&nbsp;in less than 10&nbsp;millimetres&nbsp;on a side.<br />
So I have been searching for information on how the manufacturers that make these LED matrices get that smooth look for their LEDs. I found a page describing the process, saying that they use (embed the LED in??) an epoxy resin, either semi-transparent or transparent, and then coat the bottom with black. Does anyone know much about this process? What brand is best? How thin or thick do you spread the coating? And what is used as a mold?
pls i'm a novist, i just get started learning the dot matrix <br /> &nbsp;&nbsp; pls i need some one to put me through on how to write the program code in c language and even the guildline.\<br /> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks
Thank you very much for your help on understanding more about how Led Dot Matrix works.
Hi Po, pashare naman po sa project nyo kung andyan pa.please
Where in my area can I get materials/kits to create LED displays?
Hey i was wondering how you'd make a "T" with this setup... Since there's an even number of horizontal rows, you wouldn't be able to center the vertical line coming down from the top of the "T"...
Ah, you've found the fatal flaw... Because of my limit on size and the number of outputs, I could only have a 4x5, not the standard 5 by 7, but it does the job, and I like it.
Could You make another one that is 5x7?
I could, but I won't. The chip I used above, the PICAXE18X doesn't have more than 9 outputs. Ideally you'd need one with 12 outputs, or some further ICs to add to the previous 9 outputs. I'm not making another one, because I really don't see the point there are other things which I'm yet to do, things with ethernet and X10.
Lol just use a multiplexer... and are u using the x10 firecracker?
Well you could display a T with a 4x5 dot matrix.......just that it is the small T...."t"!!!!
I'm afraid you can do neither. The resolution is far too small to display a capital T let alone sin waves. The LED's wouldn't unnecessarily glow.
I actually meant small "t".....unless ur looking to display only capital alphabets. Actually if you draw the schematic diagram of your 4x5 matrix you will find that to display only a diagnol 3 LED's , unneccesary 3 other LED's would glow, try it & tell me if thats not true!!.
if you read the explanation, you'd realize it's is not true... The technique is called multiplexing. it's where you switch on all the LEDs on in a column or row at once, then turn them off and move to the next row, if you do this quickly enough, they eye doesn't see these changes and instead just sees lit LEDs. Try googling multiplexing for more information.
Ok, yeah thats right. But a standard 5x7 matrix has a problem with diagnol LEDs lighting up....& i mean continuosly ON. Its all because its connected that way. Maybe a circuit diagram would show you what i mean.
I was wondering, can you display a sinusoidal wave-form in ur 4x5 dot matrix. I know u r using it to display alphabets & numbers. But i believe that you cannot have a sine-wave on this type of display device.........as un-neccesary LEDs would glow.
Anybody know where can I buy LED Dot-Matrix Display kits like these 20 matrix displays as seen in these pictures on this page?
Hey... That's cool. Just thinkin'... Is there a way to use this with arduino? I have 3x3 matrix that is homemade.
i like this item
Just reading the buzz, and as to the "T" argument, could you not use a PICAXE 28?
oh yes the picaxe cip is better but if you need you you can use a pic chip with the same pcb .picaxe chips are pic chips with bootstrap program except you'll need to redo the programmer
i love picaxe its awesome theyre cheap and easy ive already built 2 robots
If this hasn't been suggested already, you should learn how to do smd (surface mount) soldering. Then you can use just one circuit board, though you'd probably want to enclose it in a case.
Back when I did this project (2006) I didn't have access to either easily. Now 3 years on I have, although I do more work with Ethernet and the like now. This was a one off and no longer works, the wire connections between layers were always a little picky and with age a couple have snapped.
Hey, I dunno if you solved it yet, but that dim LED could be some leftover soldering flux...which as it turns out is quite conductive.
what school do you go to?
I went to a Grammar School near London in the UK.
I also go to a school in the UK with extensive electronics resources. I have used their software (PCBWiz) to make pcbs before, and it is very good. I use the 'toner transfer' method for etch resist and buy all my components etc from Maplin. If you're interested, they sell double sided boards.
PCBWiz is fairly limited. But easy to use, so it's good for a school. I now use Eagle, <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.cadsoft.de/">http://www.cadsoft.de/</a> There are quite quite a few tutorials on how to use it on this website.<br/><br/>Maplin are not very good either. They are VERY expensive. I now use Rapid <br/>Electronics. <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.rapidonline.com/">http://www.rapidonline.com/</a><br/><br/>As for double sided boards, because I was doing this at school, I did not have double sided board to hand, and did not want to make the layout more complex by using it, I did not use it. It works fine with out it, so I'm quite happy.<br/><br/>So please STOP with this &quot;why don't you just use double sided board&quot; comments. I didn't, it's easier not to, and it is now done. Oh and at the time I had NO idea how to do double sided board in PCBWiz.<br/>
Almost immediately after writing the previous comment, I discovered rapid electronics. Their prices are amazing. The 4017 is 4 pounds cheaper! I'm definitely going to use them again
yeah, rapid rule!!!

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