Step 5: Heat Sinking LED and Driver

Heat Sinking will dissipate the heat so the components will not overheat and burn out. The Arctic Silver Thermal Paste is a non conductive glue material that will transfer the heat to the metal. It is impossible to remove once it has set. Arctic Silver Instructions

Attach the LED to the Aluminium Heatsink using the Arctic Silver thermal adhesive (following the instructions in the attached link) 

Next step is to prepare the driver and heat sink the driver. Test fit the driver in the copper heat sink with the wire side up(output wires). Test to see if the two wires will go through the two holes on the top. If it is good, then solder the input wires to the driver. See attached images. Once this step is complete, test fit the driver again inside the copper heat sink. Then, apply rubbing alcohol to the Q-tip and clean the inside of the copper. Mix the thermal adhesive as the website's instructions tell you to do so, and apply it liberally inside the copper heatsink. Excessive in this case, is okay. Insert the driver inside with the output wires sticking through the two top holes. Make sure there are no gaps between the driver's sides and the copper. Hold in place until it sticks by itself. Then, solder red and black wires to the output wires. (use heat-shrink tubing to cover up the solder) (about 3 inches of wire- red and black) 

Place the LED Heats sink on top of the copper one and strip the output wires to the desired length. It may help to only leave 3 strands of wire. 
<p>Great instructable! Does anybody know how one would switch &quot;modes&quot; (low, medium, high) with this LED driver?</p>
<p>To switch modes, depress the switch and release - this particular light I built has a reverse clicky switch so I could switch modes with the light already on (light press on the switch without turning it on.) </p><p>With a forward clicky switch, I would have to switch modes when the light is off (light click on the switch without turning it to constant on by fully activating the switch). </p><p>This particular LED Driver switches modes based on a timer inside, so when it detects a switch cycle (on/off), it is programmed to go into the next mode. </p>
<p>OK, Thanks! I'm thinking of using your mod for a high-powered bike light I'm building :)</p>
<p>Great mod. Thanks for sharing.<br>Here is another easy one to do.</p><p>https://youtu.be/OdtQtdQcvTM</p>
Nice conversion. I have two Maglite flashlite that I would like to convert. (1-2d cells &amp; 1-6d cells). I guess the hard part is to get the Li-Ion batteries. Very nice project. Congratulations.
An allen wrench fits into the switch assembly to remove the set screw that holds it in the tube. I want to say it's 5/32 or 3/32.
I believe that works with the older &quot;generation&quot; of maglites that were produced before date X (I can't remember when). I remember reading on CPF or some other website that maglite changed to using Torx T-8's instead which proved to be true in my case because it was a torx screw when I finally pulled it out.
Well, you learn something new every day! I wonder why Maglite would change something that has worked so well for so long.
Yeah, I've wondered the same thing too.
The driver comes with the output wires already connected, but where do you solder the input wires?
That's a good question. I actually had the same question when I was looking at other posts about similar projects. The input wires are soldered on the opposite side of the input wires. The positive goes on the silver circle tab, and the negative goes on the side of the driver.(you can see it on the driver) I have included a couple picture is this comment. If you don't understand it, I have a video of the soldering process I can post on YouTube.
I FINALLY resumed this project today. Your photos were very helpful. Thanks!
how much run time do you get using the cr123a batteries?
As of right now, I have not tested the run time, but based off of previous experiences, I'd say 2 Hours on high should not be a problem. If you want to go for a longer run time, buy some Panasonic 18650 batteries, as they have significantly more mAh than what the CR123a's have. More mAh means longer run time. But remember, running high power lights for extended periods of time will make the flashlight heat up some so be careful. The most I have run it for is 30 minutes on high without any noticeable dimming. <br> <br>*a member of CandlePowerForums, Jayrob, estimates that these can run 4 hours on high using 32650 batteries, which I believe is very possible.*
If someone wanted a cheaper alternative, you could buy a led bulb for your maglite. You won't get 900 lumen, but they're still pretty bright. <br> <br>http://www.amazon.com/TerraLUX-TLE-6EXB-MiniStar5-Conversion-MagLites/dp/B001I9TI4Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347938841&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=led+maglite+bulb
Yup, you're exactly right! But then again there are so many other alternatives out there, not just Maglite. I was looking into Solarforce flashlights the other day- for $30 you can get an 800 lumen flashlight- and it's not the &quot;China&quot; lumens(as found on some cheap flashlights). It's actually supposed to be around the 800 lumens that it claims to be- and it's so much smaller than a Maglite too.
Hi, Nice instructable you have made. The flashlight sure looks pretty bright and I may have to make one myself from some of the stuff that I have laying around. <br>I have one question though; at the end of step five you referenced a 3/8&quot; drill bit whereas the picture seems to indicate a 3/16 or such drill bit, what is the size of the bit in question? 3/8&quot; seems to big for the size copper fitting and the measurements given. <br>Thanks for the instructable and keep up the good work. <br>Dan
Dan, Thanks for catching that mistake! I meant 1/8&quot; Drill Bit. I have since changed it on the instructable too. <br>Jeffrey

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