For those of you who stumble upon this instructable, a bit of history is mandatory in order to better understand my goals with this LED projector lamp. Therefore I recommend you first read the LED Projector Lamp v.1.0 instructable I posted a while ago. Check back when you’re done for this second part of my adventure.

For this version of the projector lamp I knew I had to find a way to at least double the amount of light on the projection screen. As high-power LED’s are very expensive parts around here (I live in Sibiu, Romania) I wanted to try making my own LED array. I chose the NS6W183T LEDs from Nichia. For those of you who don’t know, Nichia is a Japanese company that produces high quality LEDs and were the first to invent the high power blue and white LEDs back in the 90’s. These LEDs were available around here and the light output was tempting.

This instructable is not yet finished. Also the timeframe on this project is unspecified. I'm publishing its progress because I need other user's opinion on some matters in order to finish it. If you think you have something truly valuable to add to this project, be my guest and share you opinion in comments. I'll try to answer them all.

Step 1: Bill of materials

My choice for the NS6W183T LEDs was based mainly on the light output & size. These are SMD components and for their size they put out an amazing 245 lumens each (when powered with If=700mA). I had to settle for an array of 9 LEDs, mainly because of the price involved. My hobby budget is very limited. Even so I paid about 55 Euro or 66 USD on these LEDs. Expensive for Romania, cheap for everyone else. The main goal is filling the entire projector condenser lens with light and the array does just that. There’s a problem though. The SMD LEDs I got have the light beam spread at 120 degrees. I had no choice but to go with that, in hoping that I’ll find a way to focus this light somehow.

The cooler selected (see the Cooling step) was 87 RON, that’s 24.5 Euro or 25.5 USD. I got this one because no matter the outcome of this lamp project I’ll still have a future use for it. The rest are scavenged parts, not really worth mentioning. People in the DIY community knows the importance of dumpster dives.

Final cost of materials so far is around 100 Euro, give or take. One more failed project and I’ll get to hear my wife saying “you know, you could have bought that original lamp already, given the already spent amounts”. Now that’s what I call painful irony.
<p>That lamp looks amazing!! it's a great idea for those like me that can't find the original lamps in our countrys!!</p><p>Very Impressive</p>
<p>The multiple LED lightsources with a single reflector system do create light of course but most of the light will not make it through the projection system. This is due to the so called 'Etendue' of any optical system, the product of the area through which the light traverses or from where it originates and the spatial angle it occupies. A loss-less system can only exist if the source's etendue is equal to or smaller than that of the rest of the optical system. If the etendue of the source is much larger than that of the optical system, most of the light will not be guidable through the system. The projection system has been designed for a high pressure arc lamp that is characterized by an enormous luminance, a light flux emanating from nearly a point, i.e. a very small surface. These lamps have many negatives (short lived, UV, explosion, modest energetic efficiency) but are hard to beat when it comes to their optical geometry, all the light comes from one small point and facilitates an optical system to capture, guide, and image it. The Luminance of a high pressure Mercury arc lamp is in the order of 4 Giga Candela per m2. That of a LED about 8 Mega Candele per m2. A factor of 500 less!</p><p>So when it comes to converting electrical energy into light energy without many contraints where that light goes, the LED wins (lumens per Watt) but when it comes to creating light that is useful in a projection system the LED is far inferior. </p><p>Conclusion:</p><p>Most projection systems are designed such that they operate, even with a high pressure arc lamp, in an etendue situation that is already not lossless.</p><p>So the total light emitting surface of the LED should not be bigger than that of the arc in the arc lamp. Assuming for simplicity that the arc is a little sphere with radius 0.5 mm, its surface is 4 * pi * 0.5&sup2; = appr. 3 mm&sup2;.</p><p>Unfortunately from such a small surface a LED can only produce a few lumens. </p><p>Had this not been the case of course all projectors would have been using LEDs to start with. Latest solid-state trend is the use of laser diodes. They achieve much higher luminances than LEDs can but are costly at the power levels needed.</p>
<p>Heh... The grounds for the premise is solid, but your premise is wrong.<br><br><a href="http://www.projectorreviews.com/projector-categories/led-projectors/" rel="nofollow">http://www.projectorreviews.com/projector-categori...</a><br><br>Most of those don't have Laser LEDs... <br><br>Your premise fails on a few fronts. <br><br>1) 20k Lumens == 20k Lux == 20k Candellas. <br>2) The emitter source for the high pressure mercury arc is NOT constrained to 20 degrees, but rather 360- which makes the Candellas without the proper lumiary assembly down to 3k Candellas.<br>3) A similar &quot;proper&quot; lumiary assembly can be made to constrain the LED Emission profile to about 20 degrees.<br>4) With &quot;1&quot;, all things being equal, if you constrain the light to 20 degrees of emission profile with low losses, X lumens *DOES* equate to X candela.<br>5) once you get past the 100 lm/watt range, you're in the domains beyond even UHP mercury vapor for luminous intensity.<br><br><br>Now, had you said it was &quot;easier&quot; to accomplish the focusing because of UHP being a point source for the light and the LED's being &quot;more spread out&quot;, I'd have bought the statement in spite of the handwavium you're putting out. <br><br>However, since you went where you went...I need chest waders for it.</p><p><br>LED's have a potential to be made as good or better with performance levels exceeding 200lm/watt now with the right luminaries. It may or may not be that you can retrofit a projector gracefully with such gear, but it's worth trying. The reason why they have as many &quot;fails&quot; as we seem to have (with a few recent successes, albeit ugly as hell) is that it's harder to get the focusing you need to keep the light going in the right directions for projecting. It's not that it's impossible (you're seeing 800+ lm projectors in that list...)- it's difficult.<br><br>I'm happy for the challenge.<br></p>
Had I known that my instructable would get me CERN-level comments, I would have just posted pictures :-). Thank you for your insights. But we're all beating a dead horse. I gave up on this. I find Xenon bulbs a much better alternative. Not as good as the original, but it does make a projector usable.
You could use the internal lens array from an old slide projector, though it may be too large to fit in the space.
<p>Un proiect interesant si bine structurat... totul este OK. Un sibian.</p>
Xenon man. Just do it.
<p>That wouldn't make a very interesting instructable. This is a really cool project to me, one might do it to save on lamps, for energy efficiency, just to see if you can, or if you can't get the correct Xenon lamp because it's obsolete, you live in a place where it's not available, or you live in a place where mercury lamps are banned. Or, what if you want to modify the behavior of the projector? Say I'm using one for 3D printing and I want to drop in a UV led, this would be a good starting point. If you don't think making stuff yourself is stupid because you could buy it, why be on instructables?</p>
It is the same story just using the correct lamp instead of LED which have a long way to go to put out the same amount of power. I'd go about with making a universal base with H1 socket mount and provide cooling for it. H1 xenons will be here for a long time and very cheap. I'd also think about using the original ballast from the projector if it's possible. <br>It is about the road not the destination but we also need to chose the right gun for the duck when hunting ducks.
<p>e fain, dar ai scris prea mult, ai intrat prea in detalii</p>
What about using this one in the projector. No cooling. http://m.aliexpress.com/item-desc/2036097338.html
<p>Hey, isn't it possible to focus this led with this kind of led, reflector and lens?</p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/44mm-Lens-Reflector-Collimator-with-50mm-Base-for-20W-30W-50W-100W-LED-Lamp-Blub-/251464435966?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8c72c8fe" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/44mm-Lens-Reflector-Collim...</a></p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multi-Color-10W-30W-50W-100W-300-7000LM-High-Power-LED-Lamp-SMD-Chips-light-bulb-/161312794692?pt=AU_Lighting_Fans&var=&hash=item258efde844" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multi-Color-10W-30W-50W-10...</a></p><p>Anyone tried?</p>
<p>I like what this ole boy rigged up. I might try it. </p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/YfhIsdwkyr0" width="500"></iframe></p><p>Another thing I thought of, is synchronizing the LED with the shutter, so that you get around twice as much light out and no flicker. Now, the light is mechanically chopped when the shutter advances. A sensor could shut off the LED while the film advances and you could remove the chopper. You wouldn't get any rolling shadow through your movie when you filmed it with a digital camera, would you? At least not if your shutter speed was slow enough. </p>
Have you seen the construction of the light path in a projector using red blue and green leds? You should try thr same with white leds!
Sorry but I wouldn't tackle optics on that level. Using prisms and custom-made reflectors, sure, it will work. But I can't have those, nor do I want to lose the DIY spirit. Imagine how such a step will sound in a future instructable: &quot;Step 4. Make a pentaprism using optical glass with one focusing lens having a focal point of 16mm&quot;. That might very well be the end of the instructable, none will follow you beyond that step.
Could you possibly use a light pipe system where you take the individual outputs into separate light pipes and combine them into one? This method might have the added advantage of mounting the LED's in a more dispersed pattern for better cooling efficiency.
Yes, it would. But I don't have the tools or the materials to come up with something like that. We're talking about advanced optics here. Stuff that the average Joe will never be able to replicate.
It might not take too much. If you have access to clear acylic rods and cement then you are half way there. You could use a standard torch or gas stove for that matter to heat the rods to shape. You just need to make sure that the joints are properly polished before you glue them. I've used toothpaste or flame to polish acrylic before depending on my needs. I'm thinking that there could be one center rod coming up from the center LED and the others feeding into the sides of that rod. If you have a steel rod the size of your center rod then you could mount it in a drill and use the toothpaste to lap the joint for a perfect joint. This method might not be the most efficient at light transmission but 75% is better than nothing.
With ref to Jpayton,in car ECUs they transfer similar heat by using thru hole plating under the component ,about 10 holes to copper on the other side.Has been working in the car industry for 10 years and I have used the same idea a few times.If anyone is still interested i will post some pics.
I already solved the PCB heat transfer by using a aluminium PCB. So no thru hole system necessary. It would have been impossible, anyway, due to the SMD size of the LEDs and the fact that the LED's backside feature electrical connections so a short-circuit would have been unavoidable. The new aluminium PCB solves the heat transfer but the light output is the same, and that's the real problem.
I am currently looking into a new LED. i have tried many ways to focus the light and it is just not worth the time and headache. I recently found this LED <br> <br>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=221037245498 <br> <br>Still not sure if im going to buy it yet. i am currently at college with out my projector and i want to do some tests and measurements before i buy it. maybe by quadrupling the lumens it will actually work. <br> <br>do you think its possible to have too bright of a light source? <br>
What about drilling holes behind each LED then add some sort of copper plug that will contact the back of the led and push agenst the heat sink. and just load it with thermal paste. that should pull the heat stright from the leds. maybe even a full slit across 3 horizontal leds. that will allow some air around them. still use the copper plugs to contact the back of each LED.
I'm working on retrofitting my Epson Powerlite S3 with an HP LED. so far I'm thinking of buying this http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S009871 <br>but 200 bucks exceeds my budget, so in the meantime I'll go for this http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SH-1x-100W-Cool-WHITE-LED-Lamp-5500-6000K-Bright-Light-High-Power-KD7-/300645874069?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item45ffe3f995#ht_2846wt_956<br><br>Due to the nature of the lamp case of my projector (it comes with a collimator lens) I'm expecting not to have big problems on the light source focal point issue.<br><br>My only problem will be to fit the right cooling device on the small space that is left on the lamp compartment.<br><br>I'll keep posting my progress
I agree with epolinda that a single LED plus a reflector is probably the right way to go. For a projector, you need collimated light (where the rays are parallel). Each of your LEDs have wide dispersion and without a reflector (and a lens), a fraction of your light is projected toward your screen. Put another way, a single, dimmer LED will actually project more light in the direction you need it.<br><br>Also, single high power LEDs are often packaged with a metal circuit board which will better transmit the heat to your heat sink on the back.<br><br>Another thing to consider with LED lighting is the spectrum that is output. It appears that you are using cool white LEDs, which output primarily in blue with a smooth curve between red and green. The problem is if you are filtering this into RGB digital output (is this the case?) then the LED spectrum may give odd or dim results (the spectrum notches may not line up well with the filters.) Worse, the color of LEDs change with heat and current and change over time. This is one reason why lighting with smoother spectra (halogen) is used for digital projection.<br><br>Also, I really like epolinda's suggestion about driving the LEDs only when the light is needed. That could help dramatically with heat dissipation and power consumption.<br><br>
It's such a shame to see a very promising project fail :-( What you have up to now is very good, however! That heatsink is beautiful, I must agree, but did you put a little thermal paste between the PCB and base? It wouldn't help much due to having the PCB material in the heat path, but it'd do something.<br><br>I wish you the best of luck for this project. Hopefully you'll fix the issues and come up with a working design. Thank you very much for sharing what you have so far!
I am attempting the same problem. Focusing a square LED. Right now I'm using a 1300mA, 2000 lumen LED chip set. There is plenty of light ( I also made the mistake of looking into it ). I'm not too worried about heat. From my calculations it puts out 23.4 watts. Way lower than the original bulb that the projector used. After some long tests of the unit I have fond that the air exiting the projector from the fan is actually cooler than when the original bulb was being used. Right now I'm just trying to get as much light focused as possible. The hardest part so far was finding the bulb checking circut. I'd like to thank you for both of these instructables. They have helped so much. Hope you can find the time and motivation to keep trying with your own projector.
Ciao Claudio!<br>I was searching for more components at ebay yesterday and i found this:<br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-High-Power-50-Watt-White-Led-Light-4000LM-3336-/110786280582?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item19cb607c86<br><br>This give you 4000 lumens in one single shot, and i saw some videos on youtube of this thing working, and i can say its just amazing.<br>I've the same problem as you my hobby budget is limited, much people use USD but in my country my coin its in devaluation.<br>Anyways, this led its incredible cheap, even shipping its free to ROMANIA :)<br><br>check it and write me back :)
I know that one. There is a 100W version too. The local reseller told me he won't be importing those anymore because more than half of their sold units burned out in customer's hands, The leds are overdriven and prone to failure in short time. Also the cooling required was insane. And besides, it has the same problem I'm having here; square light source, even wider angle, no way to focus properly...
There are two points I'd like to add to this discussion. <br><br>First, if you use one of those high power LEDs, you don't have to make it work at full power. Some of them provide more than 10.000 lumens at full power, but you could drive it with a lower current, getting less light and dissipating less power.<br><br>The second point that someone could try is that the LEDs don't have to stay on all the time. If we drive the LEDs using a MOSFET and a small synchronizing circuit, we could keep the LEDs off during the blanking periods, we could reduce the power dissipation to a very lower level. <br><br>These are some ideas i have about this issue that I can't not test right now, but I would if I had the time and the means. <br><br>Best o luck with your project(or).<br><br>Emerson, from Brazil
I saw lanterns made of this, and according to most videos doesnt heat that much(i mean enough to be cooled with a single fan), BUT now i think about, most of proyects are LANTERNS, that mean that doesnt need to be turned on so much time, as a projector does.<br>I dont know about the lifetime about this, but im sure its long enough, but dont know about the fail on products, well, if fails before its suggested you can always claim refund as its an ebay user protect program, i dont see any necessary buying to locals (most of they win some commission on each sell) since you can buy yourself on internet and without pay shipping and rates. <br>What's your solution for the square light source?<br>IMO your tiny light source wont give much LUMENS
there are 9 leds. Each puts out 245 lumens. You do the math. I'm trying to focus a square but with no real solution yet. If you read the entire instructable you'll get that.
Hmmm i just wonder if you hawe a old flashlight that you can adjust the beam on. If you can try to mount the led in the housing at the right possision so you get the right angle on the beam then you get it to work i think.<br>The housing on the old flashlights can take quit amount of heat.
This looks very professional and very nice. I have one element of concern: the PCB is not really a good heat conductor and you are placing it between the LEDs and the heat sink. This does not look very good. Here is one possible suggestion: put some &quot;sil-pad&quot; on the heat sink, then glue to it the LEDs, then try to do wired connections between LEDs. This should improve the heat transmission.
you are awesome :) smooth. clean and smart! you are an artist :) good luck :)

About This Instructable




Bio: I am a graphic designer with many hobbies. I love electronics, computers, LEDs and all things tech.
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