Instructables

LED Refrigerator Light

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Why is there a 60 watt heater inside my refrigerator? An incandescent lightbulb is a heater, and I don't want it in my refrigerator wasting energy, even if it only does it when the door is open.

For that matter why is the door on the side instead of the top so all the cold air runs out whenever the door is opened?

How can you find out if the light turns off when you close the door or not?
Arthur Schwieger of St.Cloud MN figured out this nifty way to do it:



 
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Step 1: Replace the Incandescent Bulb with an LED Bulb

Good LEDs aren't any better than fluorescents in efficiency, but they deal with temperature swings better.
Also they don't have mercury in them.

A final advantage is the festive colored light show to be had from this Color Kinetics unit.
http://colorkinetics.com
It's the "Lighttro" model available online for $20. There's a button on the side to change what pattern of colors it plays. Hey vendor- gimme free ones or I'll prostitute myself to your competition !! :)

Here's the fridge after and before changing the bulb. Actually it looks nothing like these pictures thanks to an automatic camera. But I'm happy cuz the bulb burns 2 watts versus 60 watts.
The fridge isn't as brightly lit as before, but that doesn't matter. The only reason for a fridge light is to remind you that your fridge is still working anyway.
gromit19432 years ago
Hmmm.

Why not just climb inside and close the door?

Actually, you will find that the lght will go out just before the door is clompletely closed, if the switch is properly adjusted.

--Terry
gromit19434 years ago
LEDs ARE more efficient than fluorescents!  Look at the heat that fluorescents put out -- that is wasted.  LEDs put out almost ALL of the electrical energy they consume as light -- very, very little as heat.  And they last much, much longer!

--gromit
thank you for saying what i was thinking
toomuch5 years ago
Another easy and quick option is to use a CFL. I know its not exactly the same, but it is cheap, readily available, and fairly effective. I didn't read all the comments, so I don't know if this was touched on.
Blofish toomuch3 years ago
I tried using cfl's in the frig. they dont handle the cold well, burn out fast and you risk getting mercury on the food should something break the bulb.
hillskie3 years ago
LED's put out little or no heat?!? What ... are you kidding? Um, what do you think those heat sink fins are for? Look at any good par30 LED. FINS all the way around ... for diffusing heat. Little or no heat.
HA ! No ... only the useless junkie LED's put out no heat. They self destruct in record time too. The electronics that drive good LED's do put out heat.
Snakerog4 years ago
Help please. I have an Electrolux refrigerator that has regular incandescent light bulbs. I would like to replace them with LED lights the only problem is the Electrolux has a feature whereby the light slowly illuminates when you open the door. Kind of a reverse dimming effect. So, I am guessing the LED bulb will have to be dimmable. Is there such a thing as a dimmable LED bulb that is not expensive? Thanks. Snakerog
My fridge actually has four bulbs in it. 60w each. Ouch.

If I imagine it is on for .5 hour per day (it is probably open less), then I can save the following:

4x15watt bulb= $4.86/year savings in bulb consumption, ignores heat.

4x1 watt LED bulb= $6.37/year savings (LED= very little heat, thus slightly more savings)

The 15w bulbs cost... $1.25/ea? The LED's cost $10/ea (or more).

4x15w bulbs: year 1= $0, year 5= $20 savings year 10= $43 savings
4xLED: year 1= -$33, year 5= -$8, year 10= $23 savings
3x15w bulbs: year 1= $1.50, year 5= $22.50, year 10= $49 savings

The LED's savings= 4x15w at year 23. The LED's= 3x15w savings at year 33.

It is unlikely that you will need to replace any of the bulbs. If you do, it was probably due to faulty bulbs or to power spikes, not bulb age. If you do replace a bulb... it throw the LED "benefit" into the garbage, but only makes a small effect on the 15w bulb.

My conclusion: better to buy 3 15w bulbs than to buy 4 LEDs. They will produce as much light and cost less up front, while still returning solid savings vs. the 60w bulbs that are there.

This is, as an aside, also a good argument for why it isn't such a great idea to phase out the incandescent light bulb. In areas where you only need light for short durations, and infrequently, incandescent is hard to beat.
beehard445 years ago
probably if u do not have a fridge with a light, or a freezer without d light, you can just get a small pen light and somehow attach it to the fridge and put a contact or a reed switch.
PSPerson7 years ago
The Point of this is to show off. it also saves money in the long run 'cause u don't need to replace the bulb EVUR!! i think it's cool =]
When was the last time you had to replace the bulb in an appliance? Seriously.
chrwei NRen2k55 years ago
2 in the last 5 years, and both appliance were much less than 10 years old. one in an oven, and one of the 3 lights in my fridge. 10 years is nothing for appliances anymore, any fridge made in the last 10 years is efficient enough and will last a good 20 years. Mines 8 years old and is still quiet and doen't kick on nearly as much as the 20 year old one that came with my house (I brought my fridge from the old house and sold the 20 year old fridge with the old house)
Derin NRen2k56 years ago
when i was 3 years old
Derin Derin6 years ago
and that was a fridge which lasted for 10years at that time
westinghouse,shame on you your old fridges were better
Esmagamus Derin5 years ago
The Miele refrigerator I had lasted for 10 years because I kept fixing it.
Derin Esmagamus5 years ago
We did nothing on our Westinghouse.Made in USA,used in TR.
chayce PSPerson6 years ago
Although an LED light will outlive most fridges, this application is really pointless. For the amount of time most people have their fridge open the energy and heat load saved is tiny. As to the energy waisted by airflow out the fridge, also very small. Air has a low heat capacity. This is why you can stick your hand in an oven and not get burned, but the moment you touch anything metal in the oven you get a nasty burn. If anyone really wants to save energy then a better idea would be to route the air off the condensing coils (the tubes on the back of the fridge that get hot) to the outside like a dryer vent. This prevents the heat that is removed from the fridge from being deposited into the house where the AC will again have to remove it.
I don't have a AC, so the problem of removing heat twice does not exist in my house. However, the cabinet in which my refrigerator is enclosed wasn't made with enough room for the hot air to move around properly. So, when we reworked the kitchen, we placed a 15W, 180 cubic meter/hour blower sucking that air. It works so much better, the motor doesn't even work half as much as it did before.
Derin Esmagamus5 years ago
It seems like some kind of tradition to have AC.We are two people that don't use AC!
Eddiem chayce6 years ago
You sir, are not fun. But you're probably right.
Scotch Tape7 years ago
The light isn't on all the time only when the door is open.... so I doesn't make sense to put this in o.O
How do you know that, have you ever looked in the fridge when the door is closed?
actually, all you need is simple logic. theres a little tab that is pushed down when the door is closed (and thats quite obvious from where its placed); push the tab. and you know if its on or off when the door is closed. I figured thsi out when I was 12 I think.
Yeah. It's basically a switch.
yeah lol.
i figured this out way earlier than 12. and if you close the door slowly while peeking inside.... you can see the light actually go out with your own eyes. and at that moment i knew i would be a physicist. oh and i definitely need the light. first, i've had the light go out before. you can hardly see anything, especially at the back. second, i open the fridge all the time without turning on the light in the kitchen. duh.
I figured it out when I was 4-5.
ok- enough is enough. Empty out the fridge (you might want to leave a soda and a sandwich inside), crawl inside and close the door. When it gets dark, you can use your miny led light to find and finish the soda and sandwich while you wait for someone to open the door. I thought if you put in a 60 watt bulb and were concerned about the heat output you just might do this.(you might put in a 100 watt bulb for some heat just incase.)
are you a physicist yet? I am quite certain that is what I want to be....Gorden Freeman is my role model =D (because I love physics and I love computer games lol)
no i was joking. i'm in school to be an electronics engineer. but my role model is richard feynman. i don't think anyone could ever fill that role.
okay, mr. president of the US lets go to the funny farm then we can do Everything you want, lol jk jk
carlos66ba7 years ago
This is REALLY A WASTE of resources. The amount of heat pumped into the fridge by a 40-60 W bulb is negligible compared to what happens while you open and close the door. Furthermore, creating the LED light consumes much more resources than creating an incandescent bulb (even worse since the bulb was already there). High efficiency bulbs are meant for places that use them a lot. The interior of the fridge is not one of them. Regarding the mercury on the CFL, do you know that the LED's may have arsenic in them? (maybe these don't but red and green LED's do). Not a very interesting instructable and a VERY ENVIRONMENTALLY UNFRIENDLY ONE (resources to get the LED lamp are not free of environmental consequences).
By gawd, you're right. All light bulbs are Evil! I'm going to do the environmentally conscious thing and replace the bulb in my fridge with a small, well-tended fire of windfall twigs.
HAHAHAHAHAHA
HAHAHAHAHAHA *Finds seat on bandwagon*
I'm gonna get myself a sack and a length of rope to hang my perishables inside my water well.
roncon557 years ago
I have the ultimate idea. Put your 'fridge outside and park your vehicle in front of it with the lights on. Other than that, are you really concerned with miniscule power consumption/tempurature loss?
genius! and in the winter you could seal the refrigerator in the back doorway so that the coils are outside! this would increase efficiency astronomically!!!
Actually, there was this Christmas eve when it was 7ºC in the refrigerator versus 2ºC outside. So, I opened a window and put all of my booze outside. Chilled!
Derin Esmagamus5 years ago
Did anyone try to drink it?
Derin5 years ago
Tip:Adjust your white balance for better pictures. Your Instructable is completely good though.Just a tip.
Mr. Rig It6 years ago
Your fridge will run more efficiently if you don't cram so much stuff in there and let air circulate. But hey good idea with the LED lights. A fridge is the leading user of electricity in a home.
actually... i think your fridge runs better at least energy wise when it is full. See if there are more items "crammed" in there then you can raise the temp so it doesn't have to run as long or hard to fill the open area inside with cool air which would use more energy which is money.
Well, if there isn't enough air moving freely inside the refrigerator, the motor will run longer because heat transfer won't be as quick and so, you will feel the need to set it to a lower temperature to make sure your beer gets cold quickly.
To clarify a fridge is most efficient when it is near empty so the air temperature is uniform throughout and the unit is not running as long to maintain the set temperature. A Freezer is more efficient when packed solid since the load is helping maintain the temperature at the much lower temperatures. So rule of thumb is empty fridge and packed freezer freezer for higheest energy efficiencies.
For a typical refrigerator/freezer combo you are probably right, but increasingly that is no longer the case. If you never open the refrigerator then a near empty one might run less and thus cost less, but if you have people opening the refrigerator often (household with kids) then having the refrigerator stocked and leaving enough room for air circulation will be far more efficient. All the food stored there acts as a thermal mass that will quickly cool down the warm air that enters every time the door is opened. If your refrigerator triggers the compressor, in the standard style units, it cools both the refrigerator and freezer simultaneously, whether or not the freezer even needs cooling. This becomes a problem in warm environs like my kitchen in the summer - no AC for that room and hitting peak temps over 95F. That causes both compartments to be chilled throughout the day whether they both need it or not. My refrigerator has 2 separate cooling compressor units; one for the refrigerator and one for the freezer. Both compartments have their own independent temperature controls, so keeping both stocked keeps the system from having to cycle for long periods when warm air or unchilled foods are introduced. (For the freezer I keep a couple of ice packs in there and throw the newly introduced foods on top of the ice packs to help cool them quicker.)
redkcir5 years ago
I would think a better solution that would be "greener" would be to change to an RV type refrigerator. It runs on gas or DC. Methane can be home made and used, or Solar/Air to charge a battery system and use that. The older RV systems used alcohol as the exchange unit and just needed to be heated. No compressor. Mine would run all day on a battery charge.
Esmagamus5 years ago
Evil lamp is boiling your coke.
chuckr447 years ago
So where does the 58 watts go? Why, it is not saved, it is used up in the form of heat via the resistors installed in the LED bulb used to convert the mains voltage to the voltage required by the LED array. So it appears that LEDs, when plugged into the mains voltage, do not really save money, because they do not save energy.
I don't think that is how it works. I don't have a schematic for these LED lights, but I am willing to bet that they didn't use resistors in them except for the purposes of current protection. They always have more then one LED in them, and I found one with 36 LEDs.

With 36 3.3V LEDs strung together in series you end up with a total of 120V (sorry, I'm in the USA :). I found a schematic for a 3.6V LED (close enough for now) that shows it's maximum current as 30mA.

Ohm's Law tells us that current times voltage equals wattage. So 120*30mA=3.6W. So that means the other watts don't "go anywhere", it just means that the power is not consumed. It's like sipping from a river, instead of trying to drink the entire thing at once.
36 LEDs in one light? how much did it cost, and what size were they?
http://www.earthtechproducts.com/p411.html sells for $40. It looks like it fits in a normal socket.

Interestingly, they rate it at 2.5W, not 3.6W. That probably means that the current rating for these is smaller. Working backwards, 2.5W / 120V = 20mA.
sweet! thanks for the link. i didn't even know they made LED light bulbs. it says they work on 220. would they put out twice as much light?
If you have a 36 3.3 V LEDs wired in series connected to 220V, you will blow them instantly because they cannot operate with more than 3.3V each.
kenn1236 years ago
I'm happy cuz the bulb burns 2 watts versus 60 watts.
The fridge isn't as brightly lit as before, but that doesn't matter. The only reason for a fridge light is to remind you that your fridge is still working anyway.

um....if the light is there to let you know the fridge is working, then take the light out and don't stick in the 2 watts of wasted energy bulb
Esmagamus6 years ago
Why would you need a 60W lamp in your refrigerator? 15W is more than enough.
doo da do6 years ago
getting sort of deep with the numbers led flashlight with rechargable batteries
H8uz0za1h7 years ago
The amount of stuff you have crammed in your fridge is preventing the air circulation needed to properly refridgerate your food. Clean out your fridge... That would save you more in energy costs then changing the light bulb to LED.
n3rrd H8uz0za1h7 years ago
Actually, the temperature of the fridge will, at some point, drop regardless of how much is in the fridge. When you open the fridge, the air is cold and "heavy", and rushes out and has to be reheated once the door closes. If you keep water in the fridge, once it gets to a certain temperature (that is, the temperature of your fridge) it holds it's temperature relatively well; refer to the temperature difference between an area near a large body of water versus the temperature of an area further inland. Less cold air lost means less hot air to reheat. So, you'd assume that, in the long run, having more in your fridge means lower energy usage. Also, don't put hot items into the fridge. Allow them to cool to room temperature first.
i agree about the contents of the fridge retaining heat. but, allowing your food to cool before refrigeration will allow bacteria to grow faster. you are essentially negating the use of the fridge. you should immediately refrigerate leftovers.
n3ldan n3rrd7 years ago
In addition to the air that has to be reheated, there is the room temperature air in the fridge that has to be cooled. So packing your fridge is a double whammy as far as energy savings are concerned.
i dont leave the door open long enough to even worry about heat from the light bulb, maybe you should clean out your fridge
FreakCitySF7 years ago
The nicer refrigertors have window panes !
theRIAA8 years ago
"The only reason for a fridge light is to remind you that your fridge is still working anyway." lol
not true thepurpus is to help u SEE in the frige ( ie. midnight, dark,WANNA make a mess FINE
HELP ME. I'm doing a project on lights that turn on when you enter a room and turn off when you leave, and I have no idea how they work!! Thanks
Dear Autumn,
most applications of motion sensing like you plan are done with passive infra red (PIR) devises. these are relatively cheap and easy to work with. if you google it you will find all kinds of projects that will help you in your endeavor. This site has great general electronics tutorials: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/ and www.goldmine-elec-products.com has a 49 cent PIR sensor for your project :-)

when i was a kid and learning electronics, i had to order books in libraries and there wasnt anywhere near the information available today... the web can teach you just about everything you would want to learn about electronics.

cheers :-)
WL
go to like meanreades and buy like motishon sensor likght (cheep ones)futcs with the settings & cut out the old sockets and hook it up to the new socket DONE (it still will tacke a few secs to turn off
static theRIAA7 years ago
Well all that light is going to tell you is; that there is power to refer, the door switch is functional and the lamp isn't burned out. Not a thing about if it's cooling properly.
savagesteve7 years ago
CFLs take about 5 minutes to heat up enough to give decent light. In the winter my outdoor CFLs never really warm up and are only about half as bright as in summer. Then there's also the mercury issue, break the bulb and contaminate your fridge with yummy mercury vapors. Why don't ALL fridges these days have LED lights?
eight8 years ago
rotorsays: ...put in a colored (green or blue) light, it makes your food look like it's in a crazy food disco... My food is already that colour! :) Perhaps because the light doesn't come on... On heat pumps... I put forward 250%... i.e. 2 1/2 units out for each one spent. Mind you, I did my module 1 Carrier course 10 years ago and despite rumours... I have been wrong (once... in 1977) before :) :) :) So... Who had tries a CFL in a fridge? Perhaps either a glowstick or maybe a 1000w Metal Halide? Sheeeesh. No one has tried a Carbon Arc ? Come on... I dare you ? Ummm. I'll go now ;)
halcyon eight8 years ago
You'd have a problem with CFLs at least, the ballast has a difficult time starting in cold temps, and light output is typically reduced dramatically. You could always just do as my grandmother used to say: "Close the damn door!"
eight halcyon7 years ago
In fact you are correct sir Halcyon. Well kind of and that point should be given to you.
Kudos points hereby awarded to you.

Let me explain/expand..

I read up on wall temps and found that the optimum glass wall temp is 25 Degrees celcius. This is measured in the middle of the tube. (This is based on a straight tube... not sure if it applies to a spiral...)
I think that the answer may be a CCFL Cold Cathode Fluorescent Light.
Far simpler than a conventional fluoro. Less temperature and electrically sensitive too, so I beleive... (I'm open for corrections here)
Don't let the "Cold" fool you. they are anything but cold. trust me on this point !!

I constructed and installed a very funky "Power-Saving Security Lighting System"
(Let me coin the acronym " P S S L S ")
at my home using some CCFL's I removed from various old computer scanners.
I used various other knick-knacks from my electronics suitcase where my knick-knacks live. Please note: All very low tech and repeatable by all of you Blokes and Chicks (Guys 'n Gals).

Back on the topic... My very funky "Power-Saving Security Lighting System"

The PSSLS consists of a 16v 1.5 Amp, plug-in-type, regulated power supply (Originally from one of the scanners).
The power supply is fed along approx 25 feet of el-cheapo speaker cable and now exits at approx 14 .5 volts (DC) to (feed) a 12v garden light sensor.

This garden light sensor, is a twilight sensor and turns on via a CDS/LDR.

From there it then reticulates to 2 (Two) CCFLs and 1 (One) green neon tube (originally used under cars and in computer case modding).
All three tubes are approx 300mm
("12 inches" in USA and Burma - These pair being the last of the countries still using imperial measurements) are powered by 3 (Three) individual 12v inverters each drawing 350mA. The inverters are located uber close to the tubes, as 3000v
(Yes 3Kv !!!) rated wire is not easy to come by...
The other reason being potential for RFI (Radio Frequency Interference).

The "lights" are located radially from the central junction each along a further 25 feet of el-cheapo wire.
The terminating voltage is approx 13.5v just before inversion to the ubber voltages.
All up, less than 1.5 Amps to power an fully automatic overridable 3 light system that runs in all weather between 10 and 13 hours a night.
1.5Amps at 16v is approx 6.6% of the power consumption of a 240v light system and 14.5% of a 110v system
I cant talk authoritively on 110v but in 240v speak, a 100watt GLS (Incandescent) lamp is matched by a 20w Compact Fluoro
6.6% equates to just 1.32 watts an hour.
Local power is 13.5cents a kilowatt
I'll cut to the chase...
13.5 Aussie Cents (10c US$ = 5.2 pence in the UK) buys 757 hours of illumination which (average of Summer/winter) at 12 hours a night is 63 nights or 9 weeks. Not bad for 13.5 cents (10c US$ = 5.2 pence in the UK)

My P S S L S may poo-poo in ubber cold weather. I dunno.

On the matter of ambient temperatures, please note that where I live (Perth West Australia) is akin to the weather in ummmmmm say... San Diego CA or Phoenix AZ. (Me thinks... : P)
Bl**dy hot in summer - Never below Zero Celcius (32 F) in Winter.

With global weather screwing up, I may just get to see if it works in snow : P

I feel my first instructable project post coming on.
Or did I just do that hidden in an existing thread? HaHa !

Whaddya recon' 'bout all this then ?
Comments ?

P.S. Hey Halcyon... so... you knew my granny then did ya ? ; P
PSPerson eight7 years ago
TMI........Showoff
eight PSPerson7 years ago
TMI = ?

Showoff... I understand ;)
PSPerson eight7 years ago
TMI= Too Much Information.
1000w mh or carbon arc? hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
networker7 years ago
I think J. Itten in his well read book on color theory speaks of ill effects non-white light can cause when used for food illumination. In other words, you light your cheese with a cyan colored LED and it looks rotten. However, maybe this is good for weight watchers. The light is so low intensity that you probably lose 10 times as much energy keeping the door open while you're looking for stuff in there.
Why not some nice EL panel lighting, so the walls of the fridge glow :D
What a sensible idea - you are also saving 58W of electricity from your bill each time you open the door. Electricity here costs ~10p/KWh so if you open your door for 15 minutes a day on average you will save 50p ( about $1) every year so you will recover the cost of the LED bulb in only 20 years of use. Pete
You didn't factor in the energy savings (hence why this was initially written) with regards to generation from the orrigional bulb having been removed.
godsdog godsdog8 years ago
err...I was refering to generation of heat...(sure would be nice to edit or even addendum previous comments)
Ian01 godsdog8 years ago
You can delete them
Good point, well here goes with some ropey maths:
From memory a rule of thumb says that heat pumps are 400% efficient so to remove 58W of heat from the fridge (assuming none of the heat escapes when the door is open and the slight updrft from the heated air does not help stop the cold air falling out of the bottom of the fridge) it will take 14.5W of electricity then you will be saving (14.5 +58)/58 *50p each year = 62.5p/year (approx $1.25) so you would pay for the bulb in only 16 years.
I hope this attones for my previous oversight
Pete
ropey indeed (o; 400% efficient? did you mean 40?
400% (four hundred) is correct although it does sound a bit like lead into gold. All it means though is that for the fridge to move 4Wh of heat energy from the inside to the outside of the fridge takes 1Wh of electricity. It works because the energy is not being created just moved. (I dont know if fridges are as good as this but I think an air conditioning unit typically manages 300 - 400%) Pete
It won't pay for itself in 20 or 16 years for a very simple reason: the best LEDs last 100,000 hours = ~11.4 years.
trialex Ian017 years ago
11.4 years of use - not shelf life
ahh, I see, didnt think of it like that. thanks
Wait, the light is only on when the door is open!
There's a couple of lights that MAY work: E27-G60-31SW White LED Light bulb (@ $29.95)is shaped properly and will illuminate more of your fridge, but the E27-24 Wide Angle LED bulb (for 12.95) is better price wise, as is the E27-W18-G White LED bulb. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=MR16
dhoncave7 years ago
the light is also there to let you know your fridge is open,sometimes the magnets becomes to weak or misaligned the doors don't properly close...and there goes your energy wastage.
lemonie7 years ago
I agree with the 60w question, what make of fridge do you have? I've never seem more than 15w. Please be aware that when you open the door and the light comes on, the cold air drops out the botom & the hot air from the light drifts out the top. i.e. it's not worth bothering with (is it?)
40w
i agree with mr smart kid the average fridge ligth is 40 watts
Mr.Devious7 years ago
Why don't we skip to it and start installing cold cathode tube in there aswell to give it zesty lighting? Geeze, unless you're one of those people that stand there with the door open for 5 minutes, it's not one but nessasary and I'm sure the led lightbulb might only make you $20 profit over a period of perhaps 5 or 10 years.
lemonie7 years ago
Your fridge is way too full man. Is that 2Kg of orange cheese at the top left? Boiled eggs too, sweet...
HemiHunter7 years ago
you idiot the light cuts off when you shut the door so unless you leave the fridge open all day (which would render it useless) your not heating up your food
krazykirk7 years ago
I was just thinking, even if that 60w bulb does heat up a bit, it would need at least like 10 seconds to heat up, and it's not like you're going to have the fridge door open for ages anyway so there isn't much point in replacing it with a LED light.
C'mon, the real reason to do this is because LED bulbs have a significantly greater coolth-factor than incandescent bulbs. And coolth is important.
Lord Kelvin would turn in his grave at "Coolth". On the other hand, I think it is very a coolth thing to say. : P .
acornman7 years ago
How strange it is that the vast majority of fridges contain a 15w lamp ,but yours contains a 60w . Thats 4 times more than normal and way too hot, no wonder you are concerned .For heavy consumption look to FrostFree appliaces forget bulbs.My fridge has one of the best and simplest of innovations - a fan assisted cooling plate which brings the temp back down quickly after a door opening and reduces the running period. Upright freezers lose energy much faster than a fridge when the door is opened ,so a chest freezer is naturally more economical in every respect , but not so convenient . A Frostfree device contains usually, 2 defrost heaters, 2 fans, 2 or 3 cutouts and a defrost timer ..just so you dont have to defrost the freezer,
auf238 years ago
The fridge light just isnt there to indicate its working, its there to mainly allow u to see the items stacked on the shelves when u open the fridge door in the dark at night. You can save on the consumption of electricity by replacing this incandescent bulb with a low power ultra bright white LED array of approx. three to four LEDs , which is powerful enough to light the interior of the fridge in the dark, some large fridges have two incandescent bulbs. both of which can be replaced by the ultra bright LED array. You need to assemble this LED array along with a few passive electronic components which can be housed in the same pack as the LEDs before connecting the array to the lamp socket. Mr. Aufry Joseph.....aufryj@yahoo.com
prank auf237 years ago
why isn't the fridge light there?
Ian018 years ago
Good idea, but what about the instructions?
TimAnderson (author)  Ian018 years ago
Click on the "view all steps on one page" button. The instructions aren't much anyhow, just "buy a bulb-shaped thingy full of LEDs and plug it in instead of the old one."
I know how to do it! Actually I usually read the steps individually, because "view all steps on one page" doesn't show the comments.
Murf Ian018 years ago
Actually, the "View all steps" option does not affect the comments, they are just all at the bottom of the page instead of after each step. I ONLY read instructables with all steps on one page as it is more efficient... and ofcourse, I'm lazy
bumsk8 years ago
a funner thing to do is tape up the light button so people think (ie your parents) think its not working... HaHaHa
pmetro8 years ago
a chest freezer is the closet thing to a fridge with the door on top. There are some fridges designed as drawers for high end kitchens but are priced too high for the average kitchen. Most kitchens are designed for rectangular stand up fridges so it's more practical to have the door on the side of the fridge. The best as radio rental says is keeping the frigde full to retain coldness.
radiorental8 years ago
keeping your fridge full of food, or storing your tubberware in there will reduce energy consumption significantly. It stops the cold air falling out when you open the door.
By the way 60W of heat is bad in a fridge but what about the heater in a Frost free freezer that comes on every few hours to melt the ice build up. Pete
rotor8 years ago
If you put in a colored (green or blue) light, it makes your food look like it's in a crazy food disco. It is well worth the 40W penalty.
trebuchet038 years ago
My light burnt out.... I decided not to replace :D I'm not too worried about it failing on me -- I'd know in time to save anything :D
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