For that matter why is the door on the side instead of the top so all the cold air runs out whenever the door is opened?
How can you find out if the light turns off when you close the door or not?
Arthur Schwieger of St.Cloud MN figured out this nifty way to do it:
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Signing UpStep 1Replace the Incandescent Bulb with an LED Bulb
Also they don't have mercury in them.
A final advantage is the festive colored light show to be had from this Color Kinetics unit.
http://colorkinetics.com
It's the "Lighttro" model available online for $20. There's a button on the side to change what pattern of colors it plays. Hey vendor- gimme free ones or I'll prostitute myself to your competition !! :)
Here's the fridge after and before changing the bulb. Actually it looks nothing like these pictures thanks to an automatic camera. But I'm happy cuz the bulb burns 2 watts versus 60 watts.
The fridge isn't as brightly lit as before, but that doesn't matter. The only reason for a fridge light is to remind you that your fridge is still working anyway.
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Why not just climb inside and close the door?
Actually, you will find that the lght will go out just before the door is clompletely closed, if the switch is properly adjusted.
--Terry
--gromit
HA ! No ... only the useless junkie LED's put out no heat. They self destruct in record time too. The electronics that drive good LED's do put out heat.
If I imagine it is on for .5 hour per day (it is probably open less), then I can save the following:
4x15watt bulb= $4.86/year savings in bulb consumption, ignores heat.
4x1 watt LED bulb= $6.37/year savings (LED= very little heat, thus slightly more savings)
The 15w bulbs cost... $1.25/ea? The LED's cost $10/ea (or more).
4x15w bulbs: year 1= $0, year 5= $20 savings year 10= $43 savings
4xLED: year 1= -$33, year 5= -$8, year 10= $23 savings
3x15w bulbs: year 1= $1.50, year 5= $22.50, year 10= $49 savings
The LED's savings= 4x15w at year 23. The LED's= 3x15w savings at year 33.
It is unlikely that you will need to replace any of the bulbs. If you do, it was probably due to faulty bulbs or to power spikes, not bulb age. If you do replace a bulb... it throw the LED "benefit" into the garbage, but only makes a small effect on the 15w bulb.
My conclusion: better to buy 3 15w bulbs than to buy 4 LEDs. They will produce as much light and cost less up front, while still returning solid savings vs. the 60w bulbs that are there.
This is, as an aside, also a good argument for why it isn't such a great idea to phase out the incandescent light bulb. In areas where you only need light for short durations, and infrequently, incandescent is hard to beat.
westinghouse,shame on you your old fridges were better
With 36 3.3V LEDs strung together in series you end up with a total of 120V (sorry, I'm in the USA :). I found a schematic for a 3.6V LED (close enough for now) that shows it's maximum current as 30mA.
Ohm's Law tells us that current times voltage equals wattage. So 120*30mA=3.6W. So that means the other watts don't "go anywhere", it just means that the power is not consumed. It's like sipping from a river, instead of trying to drink the entire thing at once.