Costumes rule. Glowing costumes rule even more. To make the king of glowy costumes - you gotta look just one place...inside your computer :). By following this instructable, you'll have the knowledge and ability to make an LED lit garment that looks just like the ones in the new Tron flick.

My goals in making this costume were to make a robust, easily washable, waterproof, Tron style suit which was energy efficient to minimize battery weight and hardware bulk. To do that, I had to dodge the commonly used EL wire implementations and switch to LEDs.

Even if you aren't interested in making a Tron suit, I would highly recommend reading the section on lighting implementation - I did not individually stitch each LED with conductive thread...instead I used a combination of silicone coated LED strips and faux leather to produce a beautiful, diffuse light without seeing those pesky LED points.
 
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Step 1: Other Lighting Options - Why not use EL Wire?


Most Tron-ish garmets are made with this stuff called EL wire or EL tape (which is based on the same technology). Although EL technologies are great for a lot of reasons, I feel that they aren't very well suited to wearable apps. I built an old school Tron suit using EL wire, and found the following problems with it:

  • EL Wire is super fragile! Bending it too tightly or repeated bending motions (i.e. wrapping around body joints or placing into a washing machine) will cause the EL wire to fail. And when you try to repair any EL wire damage, you quickly find out that...
  • EL Wire repair isn't pretty! To repair EL wire, you splice in solid non-glowing wire to the broken sections...which completely destroys the effect of a single, unbroken line.
  • EL Wire is pretty dim! You won't be able to see EL glow at all during the day, which leads to the next problem...
  • EL Wire looks lame if its not illuminated! You can get fancy and do some work to hide EL wire, but in general, unlit EL wire looks like just that - wires on the outside of a garment. So, if its not glowing, its generally pretty ugly.
  • You need an AC inverter for mobile applications! EL wire runs on AC current, and any battery pack you can buy will be DC. Therefore, you need to add more bulky hardware, and there are more things to break while wearing your creation!
In an effort to dodge these issues, I decided to use LEDs as a technology to light the suit instead. They are harder to implement, but the results are worth it.
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homosapienartista says: Apr 17, 2013. 2:58 PM
Hey sheetmetalalchemist: Your LED-lit Tron v2.0 suit is spectacular! I have two questions for you: 1. where would a person buy the clear silicone / water proof LED flat light strips you used in your Tron suit project? 2. If instead I decide to use EL wire, where can a person buy EL wire or flexible, small diameter, neon rope light and associated wiring components?
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to homosapienartistaApr 17, 2013. 3:33 PM
See step #8 for where I got my LED strips (http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-lit-Tron-v20-suit/step8/Picking-some-LEDs-for-the-lighting/). I'm in the bay area, so I have a tendency to use cool neon for my EL needs...they are good people!
Nikhil_ says: Dec 9, 2012. 1:21 AM
"sheetmetalalchemist" bro can u help me in suggesting for our making of suits of tron for dance ... we are gonna use LED strips can u tell hw much battries we wolud nee.. and its placements its fixing can u help me plzz reply as possible fast _
- Nikhil studying in 10th
Toaafi says: Dec 7, 2012. 11:40 PM
Sorry , i need 2xAA Battery powered- EL wires..
Specs...
Colour: Orange/blue/green and white
Quantity: Two of each including each one's 2xAA battery case.
Driver: smallest multimode switch (eg.fast flash,slow flash you know what i mean...)
Hope this make it easier...
Cheers!!
Toaafi says: Dec 7, 2012. 3:03 AM
Hey again
If you could send the stuff over that will be great, still need some help getting them...
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to ToaafiDec 7, 2012. 1:25 PM
Um...you're going to have to be more specific. Is "the stuff" led strips? LEDs? El wire? Color? Quantity? Driver needed? There is lots of stuff...
Toaafi says: Dec 4, 2012. 1:02 PM
This is Toaafi
Hey Man, that awesome stuff !!!!
At my location (Pacific) its a bit hard to get access to EL wires..
Just wondering to see if it would be possible to send me some orange/green/blue wires..

please send me a quick reply so we could discuss the costs....
I am working on a project thats the lst key factor to completing it...
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to ToaafiDec 6, 2012. 3:08 PM
Hey Toaafi -

Have you got this sorted yet? Let me know if you need my help getting this stuff over there..

SMA
fluffydragon says: Sep 4, 2012. 6:26 PM
Hi there! I sent you a message before, but I just wanted to send an update with what I ended up doing with elements of your tutorial!

I ended up using around 400 LED's for part of my costume, the glowing cloak. Thankfully, the entire thing didn't have to glow, just the bottom third.

I bought 2 strips of lights, one from Ebay and one from Amazon. I sheathed each strip of lights in sections, in 2 layers of fabric, stitched into tubes. The tubes hang from the inner most layer of my cloak. I originally tried to stitch the tubes to the cloak directly, but hot gluing the tubes with dots of hot glue allowed me better ability to space them appropriately and allow for flexibility. On top of that is layered soft interfacing, very loosely folded to help spread the light. on top of that is a blue translucent material that I painted lines on with fabric paint to block part of the light. I cut the strips into several sections to make the light spread evenly, and to make sure as many strips as possible faced forward (reverse from yours, but it works better for my purposes)

It was heavy as hell, but still not too heavy to swish around, and no worse than a thick comforter.

I found a portable lithium ion battery that performed beautifully, and is mounted in a sling on my back that I was able to access easily to turn off when not posing to conserve power. The battery has both a 9 volt and a 12 volt option, so I could set it to the higher output when I knew I wasn't going to be out as long.

I submitted this costume as part of a CNN ireport, and they had me pose for them at DragonCon :D

Thanks so much for your tutorial, I don't think i could have done it without some of your suggestions!
Midnazanttelma1.jpg
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to fluffydragonSep 5, 2012. 12:47 PM
AWESOME! Well done, and thanks for the compliments!!
MaSe87 says: Jul 20, 2012. 6:20 PM
Great work! I really like the idea and are looking into building something similar. So how is the fake leather feeling on your body? I mean you have a shirt thats "breathing" but do you sweat underneath the leather? So do you think it is okay when you're dancing at a club with it.
ahunt7 says: Sep 15, 2011. 11:30 AM
so basically the led's are under the white shirt?
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to ahunt7Sep 15, 2011. 12:16 PM
Not really - there's some subedlty here:

1) The LEDs are under the black leather pieces
2) The LEDs face your *body*, not the shirt

So, the glow is made by scattering the LED light off your skin. If you just put the LEDs under the shirt, you'll see a whole bunch of different points of light, not a nice, diffuse glow.
malshanp in reply to sheetmetalalchemistJul 19, 2012. 7:41 AM
are they in between the shirt and leather or behind the shirt ?
yaly says: Apr 18, 2012. 12:47 PM
What about the pants?
jkco613 says: Mar 31, 2012. 6:39 AM
This is a great instructable - highly detailed and easy to follow. I want to use this suit for a costume and need to turn it on/off easily, quickly and repeatedly. I figure the best way to do this is to add a handheld pushbutton switch. Can you advise me on the best way to do this, i.e. what type of switch and where/how to connect it within the circuit.
Mind you, I know very little about this stuff. Just trying to create a cool costume! Thanks!
nerd12 says: Mar 20, 2012. 5:46 AM
still like the suit though.
nerd12 says: Mar 20, 2012. 5:46 AM
you would look better in a half life HEV suit. you do look like gordon
alante1 says: Mar 11, 2012. 7:31 PM
Hey sheetmetalalchemist my name is alante edwards i have a very good idea for a league that i want to start. I like your tron shirts, and i think that your skill can really be a great asset to what i need, i wanna know if u can make that into a full padded body suit and hemets. If your intrested in my idea you can email me at alanteedwards@gmail.com. ps. do you or anyone you know, know there way around non-expanding recreational foam.
dansan101 says: Feb 8, 2012. 12:59 AM
HI! im looking at replicating parts of this project.
I have a sheet of cloth backed vinyl and was hoping to attacht it to a cotton shirt, Will the iron adhesive be strong enough? or should i look at fabric glues?
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to dansan101Feb 13, 2012. 1:49 AM
Hello dansan! I think the iron-on adhesive stuff should work - it has been working for me. A lot of it has to do with wear and abuse - the iron on adhesives work great as long as you aren't wearing the garment every day. If you are wearing the item daily, you may need to look into something more robust (like a fabric glue).
dansan101 in reply to sheetmetalalchemistFeb 13, 2012. 2:55 AM
THANKS! Also, i wont have access to a laser cutter and will be doing it VERY carefully with a craft knife. Im struggling with the scaling the pattern to suit my shirt, any advice?
or a program that i can use to view and scale the images?
yodead2 says: Feb 12, 2012. 7:02 PM
Hello sheetmetalalchemist. I would like your opinion on the led lights if you got a moment. Since I have no experience in soldering or electronics, I was going to go the led Christmas light route powered by AA batteries. I have the links for three different styles of led lights below ranging from wide-angle to droplet leds. I wanted to ask if any of them would be ideal to produce the diffusion effect you mentioned in your instructable. Thanks for taking the time to read this.

http://www.christmas-light-source.com/White-Micro-Drop-LED-Battery-Operated-Light-Set-_p_2039.html

http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/p/Battery-Operated-Micro-Fairy-LED-Lights-18-Blue-Lamps-4-Spacing-Green-Wire-40111.htm

http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/p/Battery-Operated-Christmas-Wide-Angle-Lens-20-White-LED-Lamps-4-inch-Spacing-Green-Wire--19256.htm
amirza3 says: Dec 30, 2011. 1:18 AM
Man,I love it.that gotta be cool.but it's a little difficult to do this
GlowWireGuy says: Nov 28, 2011. 10:37 AM
Nice. Very creative solution!
eecharlie says: Oct 28, 2011. 10:47 AM
This looks great, I really like the specific detailed specs that make it easy to reproduce (not that I have time to this halloween!). It would also be great to see what your total budget was.

A suggestion- has anyone looked into side-emitting waterproof LED strips? They seem to exist for indoor 'architecture' lighting, i.e. my first search result may have the LEDs a bit spaced out but still looks pretty good: http://aptlight.com/productsview.php?id=90&proid=118
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to eecharlieOct 28, 2011. 11:38 AM
Thank you sir!

I actually looked at side emitters too :). They *might* work. You'd have to do some experimenting with how far away from the white sections of the garment they'd be placed. This was my problem - too close to the see through part, you'd see points of light. Too far away, you'd see nothing. There may be a happy medium that I didn't take enough time to discover.

BTW, the strips I used were made for cars, so waterproofness is easy: 
http://www.oznium.com/side-emitting-led-strip
tdees says: Oct 25, 2011. 9:49 PM
I love it man... I have been trying to come up with ideas for a tron costume and your method is both creative and refreshing.... thanks!
keast says: Oct 24, 2011. 4:01 PM
How do I get something cut with a laser? Can I take it somewhere?
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to keastOct 24, 2011. 4:10 PM
You can take it somewhere! One option is to see if you've got a local hackerspace that has one: http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/Hackerspaces, or use these guys: http://www.ponoko.com/
warpling says: Oct 21, 2011. 4:27 PM
When you say you needed 11 of them, do you mean 11' of LED strips, or 11 segments total of various lengths (it looks to me like each foot section can be broken into 6 segments of 3 LEDs). Thanks!
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to warplingOct 22, 2011. 5:44 PM
11 feet of LED strips, then cut into segments. You are correct that each strip can be broken into as small as 3 LED sections!
athomas27 says: Oct 22, 2011. 4:21 PM
Would using white-coated wires minimize how much they would show up, since the wires would reflect a little more light?
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to athomas27Oct 22, 2011. 5:36 PM
maybe! You don't see these wires anyway though since they are pretty much hidden underneath the leather bits.
digitalgoddess says: Oct 19, 2011. 9:13 AM
What AWG did you use, and was it solid or stranded? I'd assume stranded?
sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to digitalgoddessOct 19, 2011. 2:54 PM
Hey Digi Goddess! I actually used solid wire - its a bunch easier to solder IMO. I think it was 18GA if I remember correctly - seems to be holding up great. Hope that helps!
digitalgoddess in reply to sheetmetalalchemistOct 19, 2011. 3:17 PM
Thanks so much, and your method and costume are great, really appreciate your posting!
ahunt7 says: Oct 12, 2011. 8:31 PM
wait, where is that red and black wire coming from?

sheetmetalalchemist (author) in reply to ahunt7Oct 19, 2011. 3:02 PM
Your favorite wire box...or the store :)
r351574nc3 says: Oct 18, 2011. 8:01 AM
Have you considered neoprene?
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