My goals in making this costume were to make a robust, easily washable, waterproof, Tron style suit which was energy efficient to minimize battery weight and hardware bulk. To do that, I had to dodge the commonly used EL wire implementations and switch to LEDs.
Even if you aren't interested in making a Tron suit, I would highly recommend reading the section on lighting implementation - I did not individually stitch each LED with conductive thread...instead I used a combination of silicone coated LED strips and faux leather to produce a beautiful, diffuse light without seeing those pesky LED points.
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Signing UpStep 1: Other Lighting Options - Why not use EL Wire?
Most Tron-ish garmets are made with this stuff called EL wire or EL tape (which is based on the same technology). Although EL technologies are great for a lot of reasons, I feel that they aren't very well suited to wearable apps. I built an old school Tron suit using EL wire, and found the following problems with it:
- EL Wire is super fragile! Bending it too tightly or repeated bending motions (i.e. wrapping around body joints or placing into a washing machine) will cause the EL wire to fail. And when you try to repair any EL wire damage, you quickly find out that...
- EL Wire repair isn't pretty! To repair EL wire, you splice in solid non-glowing wire to the broken sections...which completely destroys the effect of a single, unbroken line.
- EL Wire is pretty dim! You won't be able to see EL glow at all during the day, which leads to the next problem...
- EL Wire looks lame if its not illuminated! You can get fancy and do some work to hide EL wire, but in general, unlit EL wire looks like just that - wires on the outside of a garment. So, if its not glowing, its generally pretty ugly.
- You need an AC inverter for mobile applications! EL wire runs on AC current, and any battery pack you can buy will be DC. Therefore, you need to add more bulky hardware, and there are more things to break while wearing your creation!

















































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- Nikhil studying in 10th
Specs...
Colour: Orange/blue/green and white
Quantity: Two of each including each one's 2xAA battery case.
Driver: smallest multimode switch (eg.fast flash,slow flash you know what i mean...)
Hope this make it easier...
Cheers!!
If you could send the stuff over that will be great, still need some help getting them...
Hey Man, that awesome stuff !!!!
At my location (Pacific) its a bit hard to get access to EL wires..
Just wondering to see if it would be possible to send me some orange/green/blue wires..
please send me a quick reply so we could discuss the costs....
I am working on a project thats the lst key factor to completing it...
Have you got this sorted yet? Let me know if you need my help getting this stuff over there..
SMA
I ended up using around 400 LED's for part of my costume, the glowing cloak. Thankfully, the entire thing didn't have to glow, just the bottom third.
I bought 2 strips of lights, one from Ebay and one from Amazon. I sheathed each strip of lights in sections, in 2 layers of fabric, stitched into tubes. The tubes hang from the inner most layer of my cloak. I originally tried to stitch the tubes to the cloak directly, but hot gluing the tubes with dots of hot glue allowed me better ability to space them appropriately and allow for flexibility. On top of that is layered soft interfacing, very loosely folded to help spread the light. on top of that is a blue translucent material that I painted lines on with fabric paint to block part of the light. I cut the strips into several sections to make the light spread evenly, and to make sure as many strips as possible faced forward (reverse from yours, but it works better for my purposes)
It was heavy as hell, but still not too heavy to swish around, and no worse than a thick comforter.
I found a portable lithium ion battery that performed beautifully, and is mounted in a sling on my back that I was able to access easily to turn off when not posing to conserve power. The battery has both a 9 volt and a 12 volt option, so I could set it to the higher output when I knew I wasn't going to be out as long.
I submitted this costume as part of a CNN ireport, and they had me pose for them at DragonCon :D
Thanks so much for your tutorial, I don't think i could have done it without some of your suggestions!
1) The LEDs are under the black leather pieces
2) The LEDs face your *body*, not the shirt
So, the glow is made by scattering the LED light off your skin. If you just put the LEDs under the shirt, you'll see a whole bunch of different points of light, not a nice, diffuse glow.
Mind you, I know very little about this stuff. Just trying to create a cool costume! Thanks!
I have a sheet of cloth backed vinyl and was hoping to attacht it to a cotton shirt, Will the iron adhesive be strong enough? or should i look at fabric glues?
or a program that i can use to view and scale the images?
http://www.christmas-light-source.com/White-Micro-Drop-LED-Battery-Operated-Light-Set-_p_2039.html
http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/p/Battery-Operated-Micro-Fairy-LED-Lights-18-Blue-Lamps-4-Spacing-Green-Wire-40111.htm
http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/p/Battery-Operated-Christmas-Wide-Angle-Lens-20-White-LED-Lamps-4-inch-Spacing-Green-Wire--19256.htm
A suggestion- has anyone looked into side-emitting waterproof LED strips? They seem to exist for indoor 'architecture' lighting, i.e. my first search result may have the LEDs a bit spaced out but still looks pretty good: http://aptlight.com/productsview.php?id=90&proid=118
I actually looked at side emitters too :). They *might* work. You'd have to do some experimenting with how far away from the white sections of the garment they'd be placed. This was my problem - too close to the see through part, you'd see points of light. Too far away, you'd see nothing. There may be a happy medium that I didn't take enough time to discover.
BTW, the strips I used were made for cars, so waterproofness is easy:
http://www.oznium.com/side-emitting-led-strip
I am confident i can do everything described in your project i just dont have any experience in mobile battery power sources so i need to know something before i start making mine only to find i cant afford an expensive mobile battery source LOL.
I want to buy this led strip(http://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Lighting-Strip-Blue-Meter/dp/B005GL55IU/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1318204155&sr=1-16) and i will cut and extend the single led strip with no solder strip-to-strip connectors(http://www.amazon.com/LED-Strip-Connector-2-Conductor-2091/dp/B00452BCRY/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1318222313&sr=1-8) where needed.
So my question is if i am merely cutting and extending the same strip of led lights what do i buy for battery power? All i know is it needs 12vDC power. It prob needs power for about 4 hours, but the less expensive the better.
Thanks so much for your project here and help :)
you solder the ends of the led wire to the ends of the trail tech then connect it
but what is the other plug for???
i bought a replica motorcycle suit (that doubles as a costume) from udreplicas so it's not foam rubber like in the movie but i like it cause it serves a dual purpose
question: sheet or anyone out there, wud u be willing to take my suit and put the lights on it. (WOULD $1000 SEEM FAIR OR MORE?) i realize doing this by the halloween party on oct 22nd 2011 is probably impossible but i wud be willing to pay extra. the party is the biggest in buffalo ny (2000 people) if no one can do it by then i wud still be interested so i cud where it next halloween. the suit already has white reflective strips on it so the layout is already made. it wud just need the lights. the motorcycle suit can't be washed so if it's easier it cud just be a permanent sew in. i can't find anyone on the web who is willing to do this or that's as good as u steel. if anyone knows who can do this please list or email JEFFEREYMCQUISTON@GMAIL.COM thank you. SORRY FOR THE LONG COMMENT
Could a battery like the one you used cause serious harm if the terminals contact the skin (worst case, wet skin on opposite sides of the torso)? I realize it's not likely and that most risk could probably be avoided with proper waterproofing, but I'm thinking of the worst possible scenario here.
Thanks!
Its really unlikely that you'll get hurt by the electricity coming out of the battery. Remember that the wires and the circuitry is way more conductive than your skin, and electricity is always going to take the path of lowest resistance. This is how welders can get away with welding in the rain with 220V @ 10-15 Amps and not get destroyed.
The most dangerous part about using this battery is charging it. If you aren't going to use the stuff that I used, make sure you get a proper lithium charger with a current limiter. If you don't, you risk blowing up the battery, burning down your house, and generally ruining your weekend. Just sayin'.
please respond!!!
Thanks!!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Sam-Flynn-Suit-from-TRON-Legacy/
Nice suit by the way. Looks quite comfortable too!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Sam-Flynn-Suit-from-TRON-Legacy/
Also, the costmes' lighting effects were enhanced in post-production, so keep in mind that your real-world mileage will probably vary.
I don't know who they had make the fabric for them, or what it cost. I'd think it was expensive.
Much better than the others.
But I don't have a laser cutter ma-bob :(
Also, excellent instructable!
I'm working on my Quorra 2.0. EL wasn't working too well. This is genius, I will definitley employ a few of these techniques. Thank you!
Do you think LEDs will be strong enough to be seen through a very thin white vinyl instead of t-shirt fabric?
I don't have much experience with LED Christmas lights, but I assume they work on a similar principle.
Nice suit!
TC
On another note, could this be done with a black shirt, and then cut-outs of a different color? Hmm.