Playing with LEGO's is past time for many and I decided to make my very own life-size mini-figurine costume for Halloween. When I planned this costume, I was making two for myself and a buddy so I started working on this costume three months in advance to have ample time to create this. But lucky for you I will be describing the process so you could make it over a weekend.
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Step 1: Materials!

Tools needed:
-X-acto Knife
-Steak Knife
-Measuring Tape

-2" and 8" round containers/bowls (for eyes, mouth and hole for head)
-Large boxes
-12" Cement form tube (found near construction materials)
-3/4" Styrofoam Insulation (found near fiberglass insulation) *
-2-3 cans of Yellow spray paint * (Krylon's Sun Yellow is a very close match to LEGO yellow)
-2-3 cans of red/blue/green/other spray paint (color of body, your choice)
-Sandpaper (400ish grit)
-A sheet of copy paper
-High-density foam
-Spray glue (preferred over hot glue because of styrofoam)
-Packing tape
-Gorilla glue
-Speaker fabric or black panty hose (So you see out of but others cannot see in)
-A strip of Velcro (the hook side)
-Yellow Kitchen gloves
-Long sleeve shirt (matching to body color)

*Here's the deal about spray paint and styrofoam. Spray paint cans contain an aerosol that loves styrofoam and dissolves it on contact. I will explain how I overcame this and improve the durability of the head in a later step.

Step 2: The Head!

This is the signature piece of the entire outfit and will take the longest to create but take your time; your patience will be rewarded. I apologize in advance that I did not document this as well as I should have. I will detail everything to the best of my ability. Don't hesitate to ask questions if I could explain a part in more detail.

First you will need to measure from the top of your head to your chin and round up to the nearest inch. My noggin is about 8.5", so I made it an even 9". This will give you how much you will cut from the form tube. Measure that length on the form tube and starting cutting with the handsaw carefully to get the straightest line possible, I used a rubber band to aid me. After its separated, sand the edge you just cut to smooth it down.

Next your going to cut some styrofoam, this can get very messy so have a vacuum/shop-vac on hand. Take the form tube you have cut off and draw the circle out on the styrofoam. Take two sheets of the styrofoam and cut the circle out slightly bigger to sand down later. Do this one more time to create both the top and bottom of the head. You'll have four 3/4" disks total to work with. Two disks for the top and two for the bottom.

The trickiest part of making the head is making the curved ends. Use the spray glue to combine two disks together. Your going to sand this curve into the styrofoam, so take your time and check your work to make sure the curve is even throughout the disk. This will take awhile and there may be easier ways to do this; there could be a part or product somewhere that fits the form tube and provides the curve needed. I just worked with what I had and it turned out great.

Once the curves are similar to the mini-fig's curve, we need to attach the ends to the form tube. Remember when I told you how spray paint loves styrofoam? Well this is the step that you have been waiting for. We are going to tape over the ends.*See alternative methods below* The main reason is to provide that barrier so the styrofoam doesn't make like a magician and disappear. The tape also secures the foam and makes the head a much more durable. Decide which side you want to be the top and secure it by using one continuous strip of tape across the styrofoam, leaving about an inch on the form tube. Continue this until none of the styrofoam is exposed anymore.

Before we tape up the side your going to squeeze your head through, we're going to need a hole made. Take the 8" bowl you'll use for the face later and center it on the bottom piece of styrofoam then mark its position. Now cut the piece out until you have a styrofoam ring. Don't discard this disk, we'll use it in a bit. To tape the bottom is slightly different. Instead of taping across the gap, wrap it around so attaches to the inside of the head. Do this until none of the styrofoam is exposed.

The stub on the top on the head is made up of three 6" disks from the styrofoam. Lucky for you, the 8" disk you just cut out is already two pieces of foam. Cut the disk down to a 6" diameter, make another 6" disk from the foam and glue to the others and you have the stub. Sand the edges so they are smooth.

Now its time to ventilate your head before you attach the stub. Find the center on the top of your head and use the 2" cup to trace your vent hole. Cut through the tape with the X-acto knife and the styrofoam with the steak knife. Find the center of the stub and do the same. Tape up the stub until no styrofoam is showing, leaving the vent hole uncovered. Use 4 or 5 dabs of the Gorilla glue to attach the stub to the head, aligning the vent holes.

After a few suggestions, I figured it would be a good idea to include them into this instructable. Destructions presented a couple of ideas where you could use a higher density Styrofoam then use a lightweight spackel to fill the gaps for an even finish. Yoyocrazyguy mentioned paper mache, which would solve just about all the issues with Styrofoam as well as keeping things nice and smooth. Teethdoc used a product called DecoArt MagiKote which is made specifically for Styrofoam to harden it into a smooth, paintable surface.

In my opinion, the Magikote would work the best in this application. All you would have to do is brush on a couple of coats of it onto the Styrofoam areas to be painted, let dry overnight, then sand till smooth. One catch is that you would have to make sure the Stryofoam is secured from the inside of the head with either tape, gorilla glue, or a combination of the two.

Step 3: The Face!

Alright this takes a bit of ingenuity but I'll walk you through it. The picture you see is the actual dimensions of the LEGO mini-figurine. No questions on how I obtained it, I just did what was necessary. Now the scale of the mini-figurine is about 1/32. That means the the numbers you see need to be multiplied by 32 to get life-size scale. Of course, this can always be adjusted for kids or babies... LEGO babies might be just bricks.

This part is a little hard to explain so I have pictures to detail the processes as well. I have estimated the eyes are about 2" in diameter. So take that 2" round object and sketch it onto the copy paper. In the LEGO man diagram, the eyes are the same distance apart (end to end) as the stub on top of the head, about 6". Mark the distance but don't draw the other circle yet. Take the paper and fold it so the line you marked matches with the other eye and sketch the circle on this side. Unfold it and you should be able to see the mark you made on the other side, redraw that circle on the other side. This is to make sure the eyes are level with each other, we don't want to make a lazy eye LEGO man.

The smile is simple but difficult to recreate. The "peaks" of the smile is 2" from the bottom of each eye, mark each point. I found that a 8" round bowl creates the right radius of the smile. Align the bowl with each mark and connect the dots. Now mark two more points one more inch below each peak and connect the dots once again with the bowl. Rounding the ends of the smile was done by free hand, do your best to replicate the ends and use a pencil so you can perfect it before you begin the surgery. Mr. frob has suggested using a compass for the ends. A 1/2" radius circle will give you the right curve to connect the end points of the smile.

Step 4: Positioning the Face.

I've noticed that on the forming tubes there are ridges where cardboard meet together. Find a smooth side to work on for best results.

The bottom of the smile is located roughly 2.5" from the bottom, but the length of your head could alter the look, so do your best to center the face on the head. Now tape the copy paper to the face, making sure its level and prepare for surgery!

The way I took was use the X-acto knife to cut the eyes and smile out of the forming tube. This takes awhile and there may be other ways to do this if you have the right tools. Take your time, any mistake and you might have a LEGO man scar on your hands.Cut the face out slightly smaller than what is drawn, when you sand it later to smooth it out it will remove the extra cardboard.

Step 5: The Body!

I did not plan as well for the body as I did for the head, but it did turn out pretty nice. First you will need to measure your shoulder's length and your waist depth (from the chest or stomach, which ever is larger.) You'll need to add a few inches to the sides so you can breath and move around easier. Last measure the length from your shoulders to your waist. 

Once you have the numbers down you can grab the boxes and start making the body. The LEGO mini-fig as a wider waist than its shoulders and looks much like a trapezoid. So when you cut the front and back of your body pieces, make sure you angle the sides similar to that of the LEGO mini-fig. The final dimensions of my LEGO body was 15" for the shoulders/top, 23" for the waist/bottom, 21" from top to bottom and 13" deep.

Now that all the body pieces are made, we can tape up the parts to make the whole. Once the body is taped together, we'll need to make holes for your head and arms. Cut the top big enough to fit your head trough comfortably. The arms holes need to be much larger than the arms themselves to allow full movement in the costume. Cut a 'U' shape on the sides to match up with the top piece of the body. Apply more tape when necessary.

Step 6: Painting!

Time to paint! Rough up the all the outside tape on the head and body a bit with the sandpaper so the paint adheres better. Use light coats of spray paint to stop build up. Once the first coat is finished, let each piece rest 8hrs or over night. Before adding the second coat, lightly sand the entire surface to get rid of any bugs or dust that may have stuck to it. Apply the second coat and let it rest again. Continue this until the cardboard doesn't show and the paint is even throughout. I think I did three coats on the body and four coats on the head.

Step 7: The Brains!

Okay, LEGO men didn't have one, but the step is for the inside of the head, i.e. where the brains are.

Get the hook side of the velcro and stick it around the holes of your face. This will provide the "glue" for the speaker mesh/fabric that you will look through. Cut the speaker mesh to fit over all the holes and push it against the velcro until it stays. 

The foam is to secure your head inside the LEGO head. Cut the foam and place it in strategic spots so when you turn your head, the LEGO head stays in place. Use the Gorilla glue to apply foam where you need it and let the glue set over night and apply more where needed.

Step 8: Be one with the LEGO.

Alright, you have the head and the body made. Don your jeans, long sleeve shirt and kitchen gloves and prepare yourself for the night ahead. Being here in Florida, October can either have cold or warm weather. You might want to forgo the gloves if it becomes too hot for you as you will be sweating a lot while walking around. Lucky for you, you have a vent on your head to allow some of the heat escape. You could even put a small computer fan in the hole to improve cooling.

Of course this is not the end of your LEGO costume. There are hundreds of LEGO characters you can create. I plan to redesign my costume to look like a pirate for Gasparilla at some point. Perhaps you're going to a pimps and hoes party. Grab a cane, make a hat and paint a suit on your LEGO costume and stride in style. Have fun with it and be creative!
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jseiber16 days ago
Made one as Emmet and Lord Business from the Lego Movie with a friend for Dragon Con this year. We were such a hit we had a line of people wanting to take pictures with us.

This is a great Instructable. We ended up priming the whole head with some standard wall primer to solve the spray paint Styrofoam issue then sanded it to try and smooth it. Added a 6 inch computer fan to the top of the heads and a 9v battery to keep us cool through the day. If you add a fan make sure it blows out as we found that kept us the coolest.
Kaged Kombat (author)  jseiber10 days ago

I have yet to see the Lego Movie but it appears like I need to. Great expressions! I knew adding a fan would help, I'm glad it worked well for you!

XaqFixx made it!10 days ago

I made this a few years ago based on this 'ible. The following year I repainted the mask as a zombie minifig.

Kaged Kombat (author)  XaqFixx10 days ago
That's great! I've been meaning to dust off my own and put a new twist on it.

definitely trying this on my next fancy dress party.

Thank you so much for this tutorial, I dont know how we could've made the costume without these instructions!
Lego Superheros.jpgDowntown.jpg
kbates8710 months ago
Thank you so much! We had an amazing Halloween!!
Mrs_Tish10 months ago
Thanks for this! My 10 year a huge Zelda fan, and we needed a creative twist since he went as Link last year. This was perfect for us. :)
Kaged Kombat (author)  Mrs_Tish10 months ago
LEGO Link! Awesome job on the shield and sword too!
fallen_petals11 months ago
Amazing idea Kaged Kombat! I've been looking for a costume to make to wear for Halloween, and for the costume contest at work, that wouldn't be very difficult to make, and I think this is the one. I just have a question, since the costume adds extra volume and bulk– is it difficult to get through doors?
Katsupe- I love the additions that you made to the costumes. How did you attach the hands(and can't you still grab and hold onto things)? Also, how did you make the hair and make it detachable? And, did you use a printout or paint on the Lego logo?

Lastly, does anyone know how to reduce the heat and increase visibility(would cutting eye and mouth holes work-I could wear a light mask so I can still see and others would see black into the holes)?

Again, wonderful job Kaged Kombat!
Kaged Kombat (author)  fallen_petals11 months ago
Doors never were an issue for me. You could walk sideways if you might think it is too wide for the opening. I mentioned about adding a fan for circulation. It does get hot in there if it's not that cold out. However, batteries only last so long and placement of a fan would be tricky but it's entirely doable. Good luck and have fun!
pshotton1 year ago
Thankyou so much for this, I made a couple of similar heads, using your instructions as a guide. The end results were very well received. Luckily I sourced some thicker styrofoam, so didn't have as much glueing to do. I used PVA glue to cover the styrofoam before painting and also used undercoats of Plasti Kote spray paint, which seemed less styrofoam averse. :) I'll try and post some pictures of the end result later on.
Geekaton1 year ago
people!!! need help! so, two questions, i've got one day to buy, and build this costume. Firstly, whats a good replacement for styrofoam for the curves, because i can't seem to get hold of any in the UK. Also, is it possible to build in a day? I'll paint it the next day??
Please answer quick!
plz reply
Kaged Kombat (author)  Geekaton1 year ago
The painting will take the longest due to the dry time required between coats. If you have a heat lamp or enough sun light, you could speed it up. As for a replacement for the foam, I'm not sure if you have them there, but there are these foam noodles used while swimming that should work. Good luck!
Thanks! Also do you know of any other method instead of using the concrete form pipe?
Kaged Kombat (author)  Geekaton1 year ago
There is a plastic 5 gallon bucket that I know of that might do the job. You can find them at hardware stores. Looks like this:
Do you reckon I could do it in a day?
Hi, thanks again so much for your help! I am going to use polystyrene for the neck and head bit, and then a thin layer of cardborad in-between, like this one:

Does that sound good?
Kaged Kombat (author)  Geekaton1 year ago
No problem. The paint dries naturally to a gloss finish. That looks good to me, best of luck getting it done in time.
Also, how did you get ur paint so shinny?
Geekaton1 year ago
And do you reckon i could do it (except the paint) in a day?
ocodinero1 year ago
buenos dias espero aprender mucho en esta pagina
katsupe1 year ago
Thanks so much for your creativity... it allowed me to appear to be creative... I made 1 and then my other 2 kids wanted them too... The girl hair comes off just like a real lego... and I used yellow beer koosies for the hands... They were a big hit!!!! Again... Nice instructions!!!! Great Job!!!!
lego halloween 2012.jpg
Kaged Kombat (author)  katsupe1 year ago
They look fantastic! Thank you for the kind words, it makes me happy every time this instructable makes someones' night memorable!
Thanks for your instructions! I did not like working with the Styrofoam so for the girl, I did paper mache. I also used beer case boxes and the circles fit right it :)
we use yellow gloves
eacooper1 year ago
Great instructions, thanks so much! Our whole "lego family" had a terrific halloween.
Kaged Kombat (author)  eacooper1 year ago
Great idea with the bricks for the children! Such a good looking family!
Yes, the kids loved the idea of being lego men, but I was worried about visibility and tippyness, esp. for my 3 year old I think this was a better and more functional option!
sazzj1 year ago
Thank you! We made a couple of modifications here and there, but could not have made this without your awesome instructions! Our 5-year old LOVED this costume!
Kaged Kombat (author)  sazzj1 year ago
That's one happy Lego kid!
Great instructable - costume was fun to build together and was a big hit. Thanks!

Kaged Kombat (author)  MatthewTaylor1 year ago
I imagine he thinks you're the coolest dad ever now!
kwilcoxon1 year ago
My girlfriend and I went as Lego Bride and Grooms. Thanks for the instructions; everyone loved the costumes!!!
Kaged Kombat (author)  kwilcoxon1 year ago
You are now happily Lego and Lego, you may kiss the Lego. Great idea!
tedaii1 year ago
Great instructions! My middle schooler loved his costume and he had lots of people commenting on it.! A few things I noticed as building this: hot glue works better to hold the speaker fabric in place. I used adhesive spray to get the high density foam to stay (the gorilla glue seemed to want to soak in.) My son did comment on the paint fumes but we have it next to a heater to "bake" it a bit and see if they dissipate. This did not keep him from wearing the costume. We very briefly thought about using yellow duct tape (it comes in all sorts of colors now) but decided painting would give it a more uniform appearance. It did take me more then a weekend to assemble. Paint takes a bit to dry here where its' cool and damp. A great bonus: all the paint makes the costume water resistant which is important in the PacNW
Kaged Kombat (author)  tedaii1 year ago
I didn't consider hot glue, would be an alternative for the Velcro. The Gorilla glue does tend to soak in, but it expands and locks the foam together after a minute or two. Duct tape could be an alternative but you're right about having a negative impact on the uniformity. The paint fumes always seems to be an issue and I can't seem to find a better solution other than to use a brush on latex, which should have minimal odor. Sounds like he enjoyed it even with the stench. Always happy to hear of successful evenings!
Paint fumes were completely gone by today....we had finished painting 4 or 5 days ago. No problem. Vent hole was nice, the costume does get hot. LOL. My boys says people gave him extra candy for the cool costume factor. :-) Great instructions, could not have made this without some guidance.
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