Instructables
Playing with LEGO's is past time for many and I decided to make my very own life-size mini-figurine costume for Halloween. When I planned this costume, I was making two for myself and a buddy so I started working on this costume three months in advance to have ample time to create this. But lucky for you I will be describing the process so you could make it over a weekend.

Step 1: Materials!

Tools needed:
-Scissors
-Handsaw
-Pencil/Marker
-X-acto Knife
-Steak Knife
-Measuring Tape


Supplies:
-2" and 8" round containers/bowls (for eyes, mouth and hole for head)
-Large boxes
-12" Cement form tube (found near construction materials)
-3/4" Styrofoam Insulation (found near fiberglass insulation) *
-2-3 cans of Yellow spray paint * (Krylon's Sun Yellow is a very close match to LEGO yellow)
-2-3 cans of red/blue/green/other spray paint (color of body, your choice)
-Sandpaper (400ish grit)
-A sheet of copy paper
-High-density foam
-Spray glue (preferred over hot glue because of styrofoam)
-Packing tape
-Gorilla glue
-Speaker fabric or black panty hose (So you see out of but others cannot see in)
-A strip of Velcro (the hook side)
-Yellow Kitchen gloves
-Long sleeve shirt (matching to body color)
-Jeans

*Here's the deal about spray paint and styrofoam. Spray paint cans contain an aerosol that loves styrofoam and dissolves it on contact. I will explain how I overcame this and improve the durability of the head in a later step.

Step 2: The Head!

This is the signature piece of the entire outfit and will take the longest to create but take your time; your patience will be rewarded. I apologize in advance that I did not document this as well as I should have. I will detail everything to the best of my ability. Don't hesitate to ask questions if I could explain a part in more detail.

First you will need to measure from the top of your head to your chin and round up to the nearest inch. My noggin is about 8.5", so I made it an even 9". This will give you how much you will cut from the form tube. Measure that length on the form tube and starting cutting with the handsaw carefully to get the straightest line possible, I used a rubber band to aid me. After its separated, sand the edge you just cut to smooth it down.

Next your going to cut some styrofoam, this can get very messy so have a vacuum/shop-vac on hand. Take the form tube you have cut off and draw the circle out on the styrofoam. Take two sheets of the styrofoam and cut the circle out slightly bigger to sand down later. Do this one more time to create both the top and bottom of the head. You'll have four 3/4" disks total to work with. Two disks for the top and two for the bottom.

The trickiest part of making the head is making the curved ends. Use the spray glue to combine two disks together. Your going to sand this curve into the styrofoam, so take your time and check your work to make sure the curve is even throughout the disk. This will take awhile and there may be easier ways to do this; there could be a part or product somewhere that fits the form tube and provides the curve needed. I just worked with what I had and it turned out great.

Once the curves are similar to the mini-fig's curve, we need to attach the ends to the form tube. Remember when I told you how spray paint loves styrofoam? Well this is the step that you have been waiting for. We are going to tape over the ends.*See alternative methods below* The main reason is to provide that barrier so the styrofoam doesn't make like a magician and disappear. The tape also secures the foam and makes the head a much more durable. Decide which side you want to be the top and secure it by using one continuous strip of tape across the styrofoam, leaving about an inch on the form tube. Continue this until none of the styrofoam is exposed anymore.

Before we tape up the side your going to squeeze your head through, we're going to need a hole made. Take the 8" bowl you'll use for the face later and center it on the bottom piece of styrofoam then mark its position. Now cut the piece out until you have a styrofoam ring. Don't discard this disk, we'll use it in a bit. To tape the bottom is slightly different. Instead of taping across the gap, wrap it around so attaches to the inside of the head. Do this until none of the styrofoam is exposed.

The stub on the top on the head is made up of three 6" disks from the styrofoam. Lucky for you, the 8" disk you just cut out is already two pieces of foam. Cut the disk down to a 6" diameter, make another 6" disk from the foam and glue to the others and you have the stub. Sand the edges so they are smooth.

Now its time to ventilate your head before you attach the stub. Find the center on the top of your head and use the 2" cup to trace your vent hole. Cut through the tape with the X-acto knife and the styrofoam with the steak knife. Find the center of the stub and do the same. Tape up the stub until no styrofoam is showing, leaving the vent hole uncovered. Use 4 or 5 dabs of the Gorilla glue to attach the stub to the head, aligning the vent holes.

***
After a few suggestions, I figured it would be a good idea to include them into this instructable. Destructions presented a couple of ideas where you could use a higher density Styrofoam then use a lightweight spackel to fill the gaps for an even finish. Yoyocrazyguy mentioned paper mache, which would solve just about all the issues with Styrofoam as well as keeping things nice and smooth. Teethdoc used a product called DecoArt MagiKote which is made specifically for Styrofoam to harden it into a smooth, paintable surface.

In my opinion, the Magikote would work the best in this application. All you would have to do is brush on a couple of coats of it onto the Styrofoam areas to be painted, let dry overnight, then sand till smooth. One catch is that you would have to make sure the Stryofoam is secured from the inside of the head with either tape, gorilla glue, or a combination of the two.
***

Step 3: The Face!

Alright this takes a bit of ingenuity but I'll walk you through it. The picture you see is the actual dimensions of the LEGO mini-figurine. No questions on how I obtained it, I just did what was necessary. Now the scale of the mini-figurine is about 1/32. That means the the numbers you see need to be multiplied by 32 to get life-size scale. Of course, this can always be adjusted for kids or babies... LEGO babies might be just bricks.

This part is a little hard to explain so I have pictures to detail the processes as well. I have estimated the eyes are about 2" in diameter. So take that 2" round object and sketch it onto the copy paper. In the LEGO man diagram, the eyes are the same distance apart (end to end) as the stub on top of the head, about 6". Mark the distance but don't draw the other circle yet. Take the paper and fold it so the line you marked matches with the other eye and sketch the circle on this side. Unfold it and you should be able to see the mark you made on the other side, redraw that circle on the other side. This is to make sure the eyes are level with each other, we don't want to make a lazy eye LEGO man.

The smile is simple but difficult to recreate. The "peaks" of the smile is 2" from the bottom of each eye, mark each point. I found that a 8" round bowl creates the right radius of the smile. Align the bowl with each mark and connect the dots. Now mark two more points one more inch below each peak and connect the dots once again with the bowl. Rounding the ends of the smile was done by free hand, do your best to replicate the ends and use a pencil so you can perfect it before you begin the surgery. Mr. frob has suggested using a compass for the ends. A 1/2" radius circle will give you the right curve to connect the end points of the smile.

Step 4: Positioning the Face.

I've noticed that on the forming tubes there are ridges where cardboard meet together. Find a smooth side to work on for best results.

The bottom of the smile is located roughly 2.5" from the bottom, but the length of your head could alter the look, so do your best to center the face on the head. Now tape the copy paper to the face, making sure its level and prepare for surgery!

The way I took was use the X-acto knife to cut the eyes and smile out of the forming tube. This takes awhile and there may be other ways to do this if you have the right tools. Take your time, any mistake and you might have a LEGO man scar on your hands.Cut the face out slightly smaller than what is drawn, when you sand it later to smooth it out it will remove the extra cardboard.

Step 5: The Body!

I did not plan as well for the body as I did for the head, but it did turn out pretty nice. First you will need to measure your shoulder's length and your waist depth (from the chest or stomach, which ever is larger.) You'll need to add a few inches to the sides so you can breath and move around easier. Last measure the length from your shoulders to your waist. 

Once you have the numbers down you can grab the boxes and start making the body. The LEGO mini-fig as a wider waist than its shoulders and looks much like a trapezoid. So when you cut the front and back of your body pieces, make sure you angle the sides similar to that of the LEGO mini-fig. The final dimensions of my LEGO body was 15" for the shoulders/top, 23" for the waist/bottom, 21" from top to bottom and 13" deep.

Now that all the body pieces are made, we can tape up the parts to make the whole. Once the body is taped together, we'll need to make holes for your head and arms. Cut the top big enough to fit your head trough comfortably. The arms holes need to be much larger than the arms themselves to allow full movement in the costume. Cut a 'U' shape on the sides to match up with the top piece of the body. Apply more tape when necessary.

Step 6: Painting!

Time to paint! Rough up the all the outside tape on the head and body a bit with the sandpaper so the paint adheres better. Use light coats of spray paint to stop build up. Once the first coat is finished, let each piece rest 8hrs or over night. Before adding the second coat, lightly sand the entire surface to get rid of any bugs or dust that may have stuck to it. Apply the second coat and let it rest again. Continue this until the cardboard doesn't show and the paint is even throughout. I think I did three coats on the body and four coats on the head.

Step 7: The Brains!

Okay, LEGO men didn't have one, but the step is for the inside of the head, i.e. where the brains are.

Get the hook side of the velcro and stick it around the holes of your face. This will provide the "glue" for the speaker mesh/fabric that you will look through. Cut the speaker mesh to fit over all the holes and push it against the velcro until it stays. 

The foam is to secure your head inside the LEGO head. Cut the foam and place it in strategic spots so when you turn your head, the LEGO head stays in place. Use the Gorilla glue to apply foam where you need it and let the glue set over night and apply more where needed.

Step 8: Be one with the LEGO.

Alright, you have the head and the body made. Don your jeans, long sleeve shirt and kitchen gloves and prepare yourself for the night ahead. Being here in Florida, October can either have cold or warm weather. You might want to forgo the gloves if it becomes too hot for you as you will be sweating a lot while walking around. Lucky for you, you have a vent on your head to allow some of the heat escape. You could even put a small computer fan in the hole to improve cooling.

Of course this is not the end of your LEGO costume. There are hundreds of LEGO characters you can create. I plan to redesign my costume to look like a pirate for Gasparilla at some point. Perhaps you're going to a pimps and hoes party. Grab a cane, make a hat and paint a suit on your LEGO costume and stride in style. Have fun with it and be creative!
 
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katsupe1 year ago
Thanks so much for your creativity... it allowed me to appear to be creative... I made 1 and then my other 2 kids wanted them too... The girl hair comes off just like a real lego... and I used yellow beer koosies for the hands... They were a big hit!!!! Again... Nice instructions!!!! Great Job!!!!
lego halloween 2012.jpg

Beer coozies are a GREAT idea for the hands! That's easier than molding them out of cardboard and foam (which I doubt I'm going to have the patience for after making the head). Now I've just got to find some FAST.

Would you be interested in selling your Lego costumes?

Kaged Kombat (author)  katsupe1 year ago
They look fantastic! Thank you for the kind words, it makes me happy every time this instructable makes someones' night memorable!
Hm...I just came up with a thought. Instead of using tape, how about paper mache? I think that would be easier to paint and come out with a smoother look.

Using paper machete is a fantastic idea, for all or part of the head. It takes a while to dry, and if you are going to wear the costume, make sure you're not using water soluble glue, or your body sweat will break it down quickly and cause the paint to run. You can treat the paper machete costume afterwards, or use glue that is waterproof. Google waterproof paper machete. http://www.ultimatepapermache.com/waterproofing-papier-mache

Kaged Kombat (author)  yoyocrazyguy4 years ago
Good idea. Never thought about using paper mache. You could smooth out the entire head for an even finish.
pikminkal2 years ago
what do you think of using the egg crate foamy material for inside the head? i'm getting materials together this week for my son's costume!
Kaged Kombat (author)  pikminkal2 years ago
Egg crate foam would be a great replacement to the foam I used. Would help with ventilation too!

Also, I've used the top of a 2-Liter soda bottle to hold large "helmet" masks like this one off the top of my head, without making it sit on my head causing sweaty hair. I simply take whatever is up top and glued in the top screw cap, then take the top of the bottle and slice several strips that fan out and sat on top of my head. Best ventilation I could think of at the time.

hsmith342 years ago
All that carving of styrofoam to make it round seems pretty complicated. Why not just use pool noodles that you find at Dollartree? They are already rounded and pretreated with a water repellant coating so they shouldn't react to spray paint like regular styrofoam. Plus they are pretty cheap. One noodle should work for top and bottom.

Love the pool noodle idea for the curve.

Kaged Kombat (author)  hsmith342 years ago
I never thought of using those. Give it a shot, should be easy to do. The hard part would be keeping it in place on the helmet. Tape should take care of that though.
RoxanneE19 days ago

Amazing costume! I'm working on a Lego Movie Wyldstyle Halloween Costume. I've been following your instructions. Any ideas on how to create the hair? I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks.

I used vinyl material and fabric stiffeners for the hair.
JaneJ1 RoxanneE13 days ago

I'm thinking about using art wire mesh to form a template, and then covering it with plaster cloth. We'll see - good luck!

RoxanneE JaneJ112 days ago
Good idea! I read a blog where someone created a cosplay wig in a similar way.
Kaged Kombat (author)  RoxanneE17 days ago

Thank you! The hair would be tricky but I have an idea. The foam you use inside the head can be re-purposed for the hair. It would take some time to trim to shape but you can use a combination of wire to push the foam together and glue to hold it. Shape it to the Lego head so it can slip around it like the normal mini figs do.

Painting it is another matter. I think the best way to do it is use either Plasti-dip or Flex-seal. Both are rubberized spray-on cans you can apply to various objects. A few coats of this should cover up the foam's cells enough to leave a smooth finish so you can paint the blue and pink streaks in the hair.

You'll want to keep it lightweight but strong enough for the occasional run in with a wall or person. Also keep the top breathable by cutting a hole in it and lining the top of it with some spare speaker fabric.

You have plenty of time to work on it, so take your time. Best of Luck!

Great tips! I'll have to look for the foam. Haven't purchased it yet. Thanks!

ccscull7 days ago

For hair I was thinking about using the expanding spray insulation foam.....it doesnt harden right away so if you do a little at a time (it expands a lot) you could use a brush or something to get it the way you want....then paint it.

MoisesE110 days ago

How much did it cost in total???

Kaged Kombat (author)  MoisesE110 days ago

It has been so long, I'm not quite sure. I think in total it was around $70, but I had all the tools I needed already. Now there is enough cement tubing and styrofoam to make about 3 or more outfits. So the cost could be cut dramatically if you split the cost among friends.

jseiber1 month ago
Made one as Emmet and Lord Business from the Lego Movie with a friend for Dragon Con this year. We were such a hit we had a line of people wanting to take pictures with us.

This is a great Instructable. We ended up priming the whole head with some standard wall primer to solve the spray paint Styrofoam issue then sanded it to try and smooth it. Added a 6 inch computer fan to the top of the heads and a 9v battery to keep us cool through the day. If you add a fan make sure it blows out as we found that kept us the coolest.
temp_-1391413726.jpgtemp_1848654799.jpgtemp_111893624.jpg

What did you use for Emmit's construction hat? Or did you buy it?

I actually made it out of Styrofoam. I unfortunately did not take as many pictures of this part as I should have but I've attached the one that I do have.

Directions:
I used a styrofoam wreath and half dome glued together. Then cut thin arches out of some of the scrap styrofoam board left from making the bottom part of the head. Glued those onto the dome to create the ridges. Then used sand paper to roughly round the styrofoam ridges. Next I used spackling to finish smoothing out the ridges. Then glue to the top of the concrete tube. Once it was all dry I used the standard wall primer to coat the styrofoam before sanding and spray painting the final color.

Wreath: http://www.michaels.com/styrofoam-floral-wreath-flat-white/10531079.html#q=styrofoam&start=21 (make sure the diameter matches the concrete tube)
Half Dome: http://www.michaels.com/floracraft-dry-foam-half-ball/10355246.html#q=half+ball&start=3 (not exactly what I used, couldn't find it online. I found a standard white styrofoam dome the exact same diameter as the wreath at my local store)

thank you for that. I found a 2 gallon bowl that is about right, and am going to glue down some roping for the ridges. Wont be as good as yours, but not sure I have the time for more styrofoam sanding ...

thank you for the reply

jseiber jseiber13 days ago

Forgot to attach image

20140823_190119.jpg

I'm wondering the same thing.

Kaged Kombat (author)  jseiber1 month ago

I have yet to see the Lego Movie but it appears like I need to. Great expressions! I knew adding a fan would help, I'm glad it worked well for you!

Rosejn13 days ago

Thank you so much for the directions. My son broke his leg first day of senior year and wasn't interested in dressing up for character day during spirit week. I changed his mind and he even added a little something extra!

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yangd17 days ago

How do you make the measurement "from the top of your head"? Is that from the top of the forehead, or the highest point on the front of your head? My head measured in the latter way is 9.5 inches, do I just have an enormous head? Haha

Kaged Kombat (author)  yangd17 days ago
That's from the highest spot of your cranium. You want to make sure your head fits inside that tube so when the top gets enclosed the Styrofoam sits comfortable on your head without needing to remove material.

Any chance you have a Lego costume for sale for a 6 year old. These are absolutely amazing.

Man, I would honestly pay you to make me a Mr. and Mrs. Lego head costume for Halloween. Any interest in making some money?

Thank you for the offer, but I don't think I'll have the time. When I was a student, I thought I could make a limited supply for this time of year. Once I got a job, all the extra time I had went away. There's a chance I might perfect the process and start making sets again in the future but I don't know when that will be.

XaqFixx made it!1 month ago

I made this a few years ago based on this 'ible. The following year I repainted the mask as a zombie minifig.

LegoBrains.jpgLegoZombie.jpgMiniFigCostume.jpg
Kaged Kombat (author)  XaqFixx1 month ago
That's great! I've been meaning to dust off my own and put a new twist on it.

definitely trying this on my next fancy dress party.

Thank you so much for this tutorial, I dont know how we could've made the costume without these instructions!
Lego Superheros.jpgDowntown.jpg
kbates8711 months ago
Thank you so much! We had an amazing Halloween!!
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