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My sister has a Nikon D60 camera and is an active photographer. She had been begging for a remote control for the camera and this particular model doesn't have the option of wired remote, which would have been easier to make myself. The original ML-L3 remote costs something around 40$ in my local photo equipment shop. So I browsed the web a bit and found out that someone had recorded the remote signal and built a diy-version of the remote. I said to myself: "I can do that!" And so I did. The thing cost me some 7$, not counting the cost of the PCB and time.
!!! This is by any means NOT my original idea. The construction and code written, however, is. If anyone feels offended by not being properly credited then let me know. !!!
The following instructable assumes that you have the equipment and skills to :
- Manufacture a PCB
- Program a microcontroller (in my case a PIC)
- Chop up/hollow out a LEGO brick
- Test the final product (you'll need a compatible camera or a friend with one)
My sister has a Nikon D60 camera and is an active photographer. She had been begging for a remote control for the camera and this particular model doesn't have the option of wired remote, which would have been easier to make myself. The original ML-L3 remote costs something around 40$ in my local photo equipment shop. So I browsed the web a bit and found out that someone had recorded the remote signal and built a diy-version of the remote. I said to myself: "I can do that!" And so I did. The thing cost me some 7$, not counting the cost of the PCB and time.
!!! This is by any means NOT my original idea. The construction and code written, however, is. If anyone feels offended by not being properly credited then let me know. !!!
The following instructable assumes that you have the equipment and skills to :
- Manufacture a PCB
- Program a microcontroller (in my case a PIC)
- Chop up/hollow out a LEGO brick
- Test the final product (you'll need a compatible camera or a friend with one)
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Signing UpStep 1Parts list
The following parts will be needed:
- PIC12F509
- 5mm IR LED
- Momentary push-button
- Resistors of 100R and 100K, each 1/8W to save space
- Current limiting resistor for the LED, mine was 12R for a 130mA diode. Yours might be different.
- NPN transistor, I used BC547 because I had one already
- Two small button batteries, The ones I used are called D393, 393, LR754 or AG5 depending on the manufacturer
The batteries must fit in the LEGO block along with the rest of the circuitry.
Materials and tools needed are:
- 2x6 LEGO block and two 2x3 thin blocks so that the batteries can be accessed later.
- 5mm and 3.5mm drill bits to drill the holes for the LED and button
- Neelde-nose pliers to carve out the LEGO block, I realised that using knives or a dremel is just way too complicated and simple pliers do the trick well-enough.
- A good sharp knife to persuade the block to fit the batteries
- A file to shape the PCB
- Some super-glue
- Bits of double-sided foam-tape
- All the required materials to make and solder a copper circuit board
- PIC12F509
- 5mm IR LED
- Momentary push-button
- Resistors of 100R and 100K, each 1/8W to save space
- Current limiting resistor for the LED, mine was 12R for a 130mA diode. Yours might be different.
- NPN transistor, I used BC547 because I had one already
- Two small button batteries, The ones I used are called D393, 393, LR754 or AG5 depending on the manufacturer
The batteries must fit in the LEGO block along with the rest of the circuitry.
Materials and tools needed are:
- 2x6 LEGO block and two 2x3 thin blocks so that the batteries can be accessed later.
- 5mm and 3.5mm drill bits to drill the holes for the LED and button
- Neelde-nose pliers to carve out the LEGO block, I realised that using knives or a dremel is just way too complicated and simple pliers do the trick well-enough.
- A good sharp knife to persuade the block to fit the batteries
- A file to shape the PCB
- Some super-glue
- Bits of double-sided foam-tape
- All the required materials to make and solder a copper circuit board
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I have absolutely no experience on an arduino. It's too expensive for me. :D
But the real criticism I have is your size comment. In the all-important 'thickness' dimension, the ML-L3 is 1/4 inch. Your design is more than twice this thick. I think this is the dimension that you're going to notice when you try to put it into a pocket. The ML-L3 is also slightly smaller volumetrically than yours.
The size was never an objective. Otherwise I would have used smd parts and a lithium battery.
I have done something similar with an Arduino to remote control mine but it definitively lacked that cool form factor.
Nice idea.
I also second the tv-be gone idea ;)
I will give it a try if I find enough spare time.
D40, D40x, D60, D80 & D90. I know for a fact that it also works on the D5000.
If anyone supplies me with the remote codes, sure.
http://www.ladyada.net/make/tvbgone/
I'll be making this defiantly at some point although I may just use the dead bug technique for the circuit to save on the time needed to make the PCBs
5*