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Step 4A board in a brick
On the board layout there are two pieces of copper board. The one with traces and another one acting as the negative terminal. I have double-sided copper board but single-sided will work just as well. The negative terminal should be soldered or glued to the main board at a 90° angle. (See first picture)
You will also need to run a wire from the positive terminal to the switch on the board. The positive terminal is just a piece of metal I cut from a junk disposable camera circuit. Just use something that has some springyness and can be soldered to.
For now, don't solder the switch on just yet. Otherwise you'll have difficulties getting it inside the brick like I did. This is the last time to check if everything is working and the camera fires. All that is left to do now is make it presentable and hide the hideous solderwork in a brick.
The brick needs to be hollowed out, except for one cylinder that later turned out to be half a cylinder. A simple grab-and-twist with the pliers did a pretty good job. Also two holes need to be drilled. I had a 5mm LED so I drilled a 5mm hole for the LED and a 3.5mm hole for the button. Make sure you don't drill the holes in the wrong end like I did at first. Lucky, I had another brick to spare. Sorry, no picture of the drilled brick.
Before gluing it all together, dry fit everything and apply a file where neccesary. I've had to bend the transistor completely horisontal to fit it all. Using a smaller, probably surface mounted transistor would have been better but I didn't have any at the time.
I glued the positive terminal to the brick with superglue. The batteries are too small, so I added three layers of double-sided foam-tape covered with paper to both sides. I also added a piece of plastic for easy battery replacement. Pull on the tab to pop out the cells. After adding the battery padding check again if the bottom small bricks fit. I've had to amputate most of the nubs and file or cut down some others.
You will also need to run a wire from the positive terminal to the switch on the board. The positive terminal is just a piece of metal I cut from a junk disposable camera circuit. Just use something that has some springyness and can be soldered to.
For now, don't solder the switch on just yet. Otherwise you'll have difficulties getting it inside the brick like I did. This is the last time to check if everything is working and the camera fires. All that is left to do now is make it presentable and hide the hideous solderwork in a brick.
The brick needs to be hollowed out, except for one cylinder that later turned out to be half a cylinder. A simple grab-and-twist with the pliers did a pretty good job. Also two holes need to be drilled. I had a 5mm LED so I drilled a 5mm hole for the LED and a 3.5mm hole for the button. Make sure you don't drill the holes in the wrong end like I did at first. Lucky, I had another brick to spare. Sorry, no picture of the drilled brick.
Before gluing it all together, dry fit everything and apply a file where neccesary. I've had to bend the transistor completely horisontal to fit it all. Using a smaller, probably surface mounted transistor would have been better but I didn't have any at the time.
I glued the positive terminal to the brick with superglue. The batteries are too small, so I added three layers of double-sided foam-tape covered with paper to both sides. I also added a piece of plastic for easy battery replacement. Pull on the tab to pop out the cells. After adding the battery padding check again if the bottom small bricks fit. I've had to amputate most of the nubs and file or cut down some others.
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