I worked in the electronics cooling market for Thermacore Inc. for 18 years building all kinds of heat pipes, vapor chambers, thermosiphons, air to air and liquid to air exchangers, pumped liquid cooling, heat spreders/cold plates and loop heat pipes for high & low power components. This is an example of one of my ideas and was not a product of Thermacore. If you have any questions about electronics cooling ask me here or at .

The idea is basically a custom made pump housing with impeller and magnets on the underside of the impeller. Then a normal 120mm computer fan also with magnets mounted on top of the blade assembly. The pump assembly is mounted on a fan guard and then screwed onto the fan. So when the fan is running then so is the pump. So now you can run your liquid cooling systems fan and pump using only one motor plus make the whole thing from easy to find parts and if you are a DIY then you most likely have these parts. The only thing I needed to get was the magnets which may be about $2 dollars worth. I did test this unit based on test data from a high performance liquid cooling system for a high end high priced gaming computer. The pump & fan combo pictured was tested with a water block and exchanger which is no longer attatched.

If my instructions are not complete enough feel free to e-mail me with any questions. Test results are on the following instruction pages. Thanks for looking and have fun. I do have to say though buld it at your own risk I cannot be responsible for damage to yourself or parts you use. I have included a rar. file with the same instructions and more pictures.

Step 1: Step 1

Picture of Step 1

My instuctions are part of my picture so if you print or save you will have picture and instruction on one page which I think will make it easyer if it is printed it is all there.

Step 2: Step 2

Picture of Step 2

My instuctions are part of my picture so if you print or save you will have picture and instruction on one page which I think will make it easyer if it is printed it is all there.

Step 3: Step 3

Picture of Step 3

My instuctions are part of my picture so if you print or save you will have picture and instruction on one page which I think will make it easyer if it is printed it is all there.

Step 4: Step 4

Picture of Step 4

My instuctions are part of my picture so if you print or save you will have picture and instruction on one page which I think will make it easyer if it is printed it is all there.

Step 5: Step 5

Picture of Step 5

My instuctions are part of my picture so if you print or save you will have picture and instruction on one page which I think will make it easyer if it is printed it is all there.

Step 6: All Steps and More Pictures.

This is a RAR. file with all instructions and more photos and again have fun, be safe and make a profit if you can. This was my own original idea and in no way was part of or referenced from other sources not my own. e-mail me at with any questions or comments. I will be glad to help.


bellezaa (author)2011-10-12


Your Welcome.

amandeep pavanker (author)2011-05-11

what is the price for above image cooling system ?

There is only the one pictured. I never took it any further than the prototype.

lemonie (author)2009-02-20

Your comment: "because I made to much an hour and the company sales were low" is interesting. Either I understand that your productivity wasn't worth what your employer was paying you, or that your position had become redundant. Because this is ambiguous, could you clarify? L

foreverdisturbed (author)lemonie2010-11-26

No it was because I earned what I made But, The company was loosing $10 Mill a year under Modine Manufacturing's Reign. The company was now up for sale and some of the original engineers of Thermacore was interested in buying it back So before they bought it back they when after anyone who were making good money and close to there 20th year and they forced us out. It had nothing to do with my performance I could run circles aroud any one who worked there and was sued a year latter from them because I write some papers on electronics cooling including powder recepies and they did not have me sign a non-disclosure when they forced me out.

lemonie (author)foreverdisturbed2010-11-27

Such is the way of business these/those day, thanks for the detail. Did you manage to beat the legal action against you?


foreverdisturbed (author)lemonie2010-11-27

Sort of, They wanted what they sould have paid for when they forced me out which was my signature on a non-disclosure. There suit was frivoulous but, I could not get a lawer or even pay for one and they knew that so I signed a non-disclosure. From what I have read that a non-disclosure or non-compete is only good for one year in any state if it keeps you from getting work in that field. So I am not worryed about talking about electronics cooling and what I have learned it's been over a year since the law suit.

lemonie (author)foreverdisturbed2010-11-28

Could have been worse then, thanks.


foreverdisturbed (author)lemonie2010-11-28

Yeah, But I still have trouble getting over it every day.

lemonie (author)foreverdisturbed2010-11-29

I learned to stop caring...


foreverdisturbed (author)lemonie2010-11-29

Yeah, That's what my dad said when the same thing happened to him. I will have to learn to do the same.

Dr.Bill (author)2010-11-24

foreverdisturbed you are froeverwelcome on Instructables.

Mahalo for joining us.

Welcome and mahalo.

foreverdisturbed (author)Dr.Bill2010-11-26

Thank you, If you have any questions about any electronics cooling products feel free to ask. Heat pipes, Thermosiphons, Vapor Chambers, Air to Air or Water to Air Heat Exchangers, Pumped Liquid Cooling, Loop Heat Pipes. I have built them all and not afraid to tell you anything that no electronics cooling company will not. You can E-mail me at

lemonie (author)2010-11-25

That was Feb 2009.
I was interested.


Chris Modified Lted (author)2010-10-16

Hi, nice design! I'm wondering about the magnetic flange: I once did a pump with a much larger magnetic-flange to "demultiply" the magnet's forces vs the torque implyed. The magnetic field must be really strong while starting the pump, and to keep the pressure/flow at a decent level, you must have A LOT of those magnets. But the magnetic field is then turning into a "whole" field due to magnets being close from each other, and since the magic between magnets is working at a 90° angle from the rotation axis, I never had a "virtual" drive-shaft working properly... But the thing behind this is a completely sealed enclosure, that's more than excellent, wich is pretty much what a computer wishes when fluids are involved.. 

It was actually a very simple design. I think it was just six or eight small 1/4" dia. magnets on the top of the fan and the same on the bottom of the impeller.

The only problem I had which was not at start up but, at the amount of voltage applied. I was only able to run the fan at 8v instead of the normal 12v because if it ran to fast I would loose my magnetic connection. I am sure with more attemps I could have improved that by adding more magnets and decreasing the space between the impeller and the fan.

I was able to test this on the same test fixture used for the liquid cooling system Thermacore made for Alienware and it did not perform as good but, it did pass on the high end allowable for the Alienware system. I am sure if I could have got it to run at 12v I could have matched it..

I'll try to find rectangular magnets to change the magnetic field attributes.. or hard-drive magnets, they're killers.. But therefore the pump's size will suffer "big".....

I also when I attatched the magnets I staggered the polarity north/south every other magnet. I did this on both the fan and impeller. This sort of locks the two together.

crazyromanian (author)2009-06-30

hey foreverdisturbed, what kind of pump did u use? was it some kind of vane rotor pump or centifugal pump? or does the actual pump design not really matter. Please get back to me soon. thanks, allen.

Hello crazyromanian, The pump is totally custom (hand built). I used a small induction fan impeller as the pump impeller only because it had a flat bottom so I could attach circular magnets to it. The outer portion is all hand made from various parts. There are actually no parts from an actual pump used. I unfortunately did not take any pictures of it all apart and it is all glued together.

thx dude, but I never heard of an "induction fan impeller". do u mean something that looks like
? and I forgot to say this before, great instructable.

Yes. Basically the same as you picture but of course much smaller and and is open on one side of the fins. In my picture you will see that there are large spaces between each set of fins. This was only because I broke a couple of fins so I had to even it out. I only had one of these so I had to use it. But again it is the same as your picture just without the front part or cover.

sweet thanks man. I had this broken fuel pump from a car and I took out the impeller and it works really well at moving water. I'm going to use that and for a cooling system for my laptop. It'd be nice if there were a way to use the magnetic forces that couple the fan motor and the pump, to be used to center and hold the impeller in place. U know? like a magnetic bearing sort of thing.

Almost like a magnetic levitation used on high speed maglev trains. That would be sweet there would be no drag.

rimar2000 (author)2009-02-20

Before all, pardon my automatic-translator-english. I have a standard cooling system, very loud, in my desktop. I always say "I need to do something about it" but never did anything. I've seen various water cooling projects, such as yours which is very ingenious, but I see that everyone use a fan anyway. I'd like to do something without moving parts, so it be absolutely silent. I think that the convection caused by temperature differences should be enough to create a sufficient flow of water for the relatively low temperatures that are handled. Since I am not an engineer, I have no way to estimate or calculate it, I can only make assumptions. Do you think it worth the risk to work several days in a bid?

junits15 (author)rimar20002009-03-24

you could go passivly cooled; with no fans water or pumps at all, just a huge heatsink.

ironsmiter (author)rimar20002009-02-25

what you're probably looking for is convection water cooling.

"easier" ways to quiet down your fans include 7 volt fan mod (sorry, my search fu didn't turn up the instructable for the mod that I know HAS to be on the site somewhere)
Presumably, foreverdisturbed used a similar trick to get his "8 volts" in step 5.
Also, NEW fans or new BIGGER fans will help.
swapping out an 80MM for a 120MM will push more air AND be quieter.

I don't think this instructable can replace a quality water cooling set-up in a high power computer. But, I believe it CAN serve to keep a low power pc cool, or for ADDED cooling power to a mostly passive setup. The quoted 125 watt heat input capability would let me keep my cpu cool(when not overclocked) or my north/southbridge and GPU, or my harddrives, but not all. A Eee Desktop could probably be cooled this way with ease.

I used the same test apparatus as is used for a high end gaming computer which has the ability of turning down the voltage that is how I was able to try it at 8 volts. Based on my tests of my system and others including the one I was in charge of producing for this high end gaming computer my system at 12v would match this other system which is not a consumer bought system and would easily out perform any system out there. I have been building heat pipes for low power computer systems to high power systems for high speed trains and power electronics for generators as well as servers and many other electronics cooling applications. Conviction water cooling is a heat pipe which in high power systems is known as a pool boiler and requires gravity to aid in its ability to return fluid back to the evaporator. This type will not work in a low power system and still requires the system to be under vacuum. Trust me on this one I have built thousands of systems over the last 18 years and was even sued by my previous employer from getting to detailed on my skill and knowledge of the processes of heat pipes, vapor chambers, pool boilers and many other types of electronics cooling. I would like to help those who have questions of said systems but, I will not waste my time defending my self from theses who do not know what they are talking about when it comes to what I have put so much time into. I am done dealing with people trying to disrupt my ability to give others useful advice. The easiest way to slow down a pump or fan is to put a resistor on one of the power wires or do the same and add a switch so that you can switch back to 12v if needed. I apologies if I was harsh but if you have gone through what I have and all because of a skill and knowledge that was learned you would feel the same way and if you have any questions I will gladly answer them.

Well, well, this changes quite the environment. If a person spent so many hours of study and/or work in a particular subject, the least one can do is take their advice. I really appreciate that you've told me all this, and I promise you that before getting to work one or two weeks in a water cooling system I will consult you.

rimar2000 (author)ironsmiter2009-02-25

Thanks, Ironsmiter, these articles are very interesting. But when (and if) I will do a silent cooler, it will be more "ghetto style". My PC is low-power, only for websurfing, photoviewing, OpenOffice documents, MP3 and so. Occasionally I edit a few holiday videos, or I produce red-blue anaglyphs, it is all.

The cooling system that you use now a heat sink and fan or does it have heat pipes. you could build a system that would still require a fan but, with the use of heat pipes you could run the fan at a lower speed. If you could get some strait 1/4" diameter heat pipes and you are using an aluminum heat sink which usually has a thick base you can drill 3 holes thru the base just slightly larger than the heat pipes now soldering them into the block would be best but the block would have to be plated since solder will not stick to aluminum. the easyest thing would be to coat the pipes with thermal grease then insert the pipes and clean up the excess. Making cooling solution like this allows you to use all of your existing parts the only problem is getting the heat pipes you can try here they do sell just strait pipes as well as other systems. You will want to get 1/4"dia x the length of you heat sink and make sure you get a sintered powder type they are more expensive than a screen or groove but, it is worth it for the performance. The use of the heat pipes will act as a heat spreader which means the aluminum block is being used more eficiently and allows you to slow down the fan. Now if you truly want a fanless system which would be a natural convection system and most times relies on gravity and larger diameter pipes. A natural convection system can work without a fan but it does require some air flow which means if it is kept inside the computer you would still have to have at least a fan on the back of your case which at low powers should be sufficient for cooling the cpu. To cool the cpu without a fan then you will have to have a system with a small copper block that would attatch to the cpu with heat pipes soldered into that block and then the pipes would have to exit the top of your case with aluminum or copper fins on the heat pipes and the computer would have to be were there would be even a little air flow. This can easily cool a cpu at low power. If youcould get a heat pipe with a diameter of 3/8" sintered powder with the heat pipe and fin pack on the top/outside the case could be done with just one heat pipe with cpu at low power. Any of these systems would be sufficient enough to cool at low power or normal opperating temp. If you try something and you are woried about burning out the cpu just go into the computer set up and set your computer to turn off at a certain temp that way if it does not work it will shut off. Lastly you could use two fans one on the cpu heat sink and one on the back of the case which will be close to the cpu fan drawing the air out the back then you can run both fans at a lower speed and get new fans. Many of the new fans are much quieter even at high speeds. I hope this is some help to you and if you have any other question feel free to ask its not a problem.

Thank you very much for the extensive and detailed response. My idea is to remove the processor fan, but take the aluminum heat sink, encapsulating it (hollow for refrigerant mixture) in thin brass and providing two thin pipes, input and output, at different heights. These pipes would be connected by means of soft PVC tubing, to a radiator located approximately one meter high on the CPU. Without fan! Here in Argentina (at least in the rioplatense area) temperatures are not extreme, at most touching 40º C (around 100º F) and furthermore, one works within the house where as a matter of survival and comfort rarely above 30º C (85º F ). I think that values are manageable. It is true that a good cooler is very quiet, and I would consider it an option of last resort.

If you are going to do this take into consideration that refrigerent has a much lower boiling point which also means it evaporates faster and easier than water and if you use pvc tube, clamps and the fact that there will be heat your fluid id not going to last long. You will have evaporation at the clamps and thru the tube and any place where there is o rings or openings even if they can be closed. The only way to have a truely closed system would be to use all metal tube which would be soldered or brazed together. What you are tring to make is a loop heat pipe which is possible but is not as simple to do and to truely work it has to be under a vacumme which would have to be totaly closed without a possibility of any leaks. If it leaks and air is allowed to get in it will render it useless. The fluid cannot complete a circle or loop with air pressure working against it and the only way to work against this is by vacumme or pump. There is also a way that this would have to be designed with respect to tube diameter and orientation to work. Also a loop heat pipe still requires a copper powder with the right mix to be able to act as a pump which a powder can do if it is the right mix. This is capilary action and different mixes have different capability's of this action. Some mixes have the ability of actually pulling the fluid in and thats what you need to truely work.

I think in a closed system like that of the cars. With the same coolant. I do not think that the temperature of the processor is not remotely close to the engine car, so I will leave out the water pump. The radiator will have a little airtight lid and a glass tube to control the level of coolant. You should also be noted that the car's cooling circuit has some rubber parts . It is true that they are reinforced with fibers, but that is due to the high temperatures of around 80-90º C (175-195º F). In our case I do not believe that it exceeds the 50-60ºC (120-140º F). Soft PVC is an option, but there are other materials. I could do what you suggest, to cover the longer trip (approx 1 m) with thin copper pipe, leaving the PVC only for joints. Certainly it will be necessary to use adjustable clamps. I don't know when I will do this, but I will say you and I will make an instructable. Thanks newly.

When I say closed system I mean no clamps or plastic tube. Any place there is a seal there will be evaporation even if there is no actual visible leak it will still loose fluid and esspecially alow evaporating one. Also plastic or rubber tube is permiable rubber would be the better choise. One thing you could do is put silicoln around the barb then put your tubing on before it dries then your clamps thet will help reduce the evaporation around the clamp. Like I mentioned before what you are trying to buld is called a loop heat pipe and works very much like a liquid cooling system but without the pump but, these systems are totally closed and use all copper blocks and tubes and could use copper or aluminum fins but, they are under a vacumme it will not work without a pump unless it is under vacumme and you cannot keep a vacumme using plastic or rubber tube or even be able to have a fill port. When a system is under vacumme it does not take much of a pin hole for it to loose the vacumme and with out it it will not work with any fluid you use also under a vacumme water does not act the same it can basically boil so to speek at a lower temp. A low temp fluid can also work in a very high power application as much as 700w. The use of water v methanol or freeon base such as FC-72 realy depends on the application because they both can be used in low or high power.

Thanks, I shall consider your advice and suggestions.

FLY2000JTB (author)2009-02-19

Very cool system, I know the maker is a good friend of mine. He does know what he is talking about. I was his assistant for over a year and a half. The system looks great, and works great too. Good job on the instructions (fly2000jtb)

About This Instructable



Bio: 18 years working for Thermacore Inc. but, now unemployed. I work with my wife running an at home day care and Ebay store which are ... More »
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