There are probably thousands of articles on making an Arduino. So who needs another Arduino? Well, this Lazy Old Geek(L.O.G.) needs one. Here’s the features I would like:
Features:
Low cost
More permanent than a breadboard
Not a custom PCB
More prototyping area than a RBBB or Anarduino or Boarduino
Easier prototyping than just perfboards
Compatible with USB-BUB and my Arduino USB
http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-USB/
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Signing UpStep 1: Parts List:
Most of the electronic parts were purchased or can be purchased and are priced from:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/StoreFront
Radio Shack Multipurpose PC Board with 417 Holes $2.19
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102845
1 AtMega328 IC bootloader $4.00 (ebay?)
1 28 pin IC socket $0.07
1 16MHz resonator $0.17
1 10K resistor $0.01
2 0.1uFd capacitors $0.02
1 6pin male header $0.02
Optional LED:
1 1k resistor $0.01
1 LED $0.01
Optional 3V Aref:
(Don't install these unless your script requires Aref to be set to 3 volts.)
1 3.2K resistor $0.01
My Arduino USB $3.99
My calculations says that's about $10.50 for a working Arduino clone with USB. I think that's a pretty good price.






































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My guess would be that what you're trying to do isn't going to take very much flash. One thing you can do is get the Arduino software, write your program and compile it. the software will tell you how much memory is needed.
On the other hand, I don't think you are going to save much money by trying to use a 168 versus a 328. Which ever one you choose remember that you have to get the bootloader already on it or find a way to get the bootload on it.
While 16K doesn't seem like very much memory, the program is written in a modified C++ code which is very efficient.
LOG
They do sell Arduino Mega PCB boards on ebay for like $5-8. But the two problems are: can you solder surface mount components (I cannot) and can you find an Atmega Mega bootloader IC or be able to program the bootloader code.
I spent most of a week trying to program some blank Atmega 328 IC with a bootloader and couldn't do it.
So, I hope that answers your question. I know I couldn't do it.
LOG
LOG
Though ofcourse nothing beats the satisfaction of self built (or the agony if it doesnot work), but for $16.90 (14.30 Euro) one can get a completely ready nano clone:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/arduino-nano-v3-0-81877
or for 10.70 euro a arduino mini:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/arduino-pro-mini-w-atmega328p-electronic-building-blocks-interactive-media-improved-version-104332
I guess the only advantage of mine would be room to add extra circuitry.
By the way, I found it for US$14.79 on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Nano-V3-0-AVR-ATmega328-P-20AU-Moudle-Board-USB-Cable-/270845858275?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0fabd1e3#ht_5348wt_1040
That's with free shipping in the US.
Thanks for the feedback
LOG
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/StoreFront
I just checked and they went up to $.02 @.
Actually they do have a minimum order and charge a small S&H fee.
LOG
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0038/9582/files/RBBB_Instructions_06.pdf?1260749296
Differences:
The power supply is not included.
I do not have the Reset button in the Instructable though I added it later in my 'Battery Reconditioner' Instructable.
I added the 3.2K resistor to change the ARef voltage.
Hope this helps.
LOG
http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-USB/
So far that's the cheapest version, I could get to work. I've made about four of them.
LOG
The crystal frequency is more accurate.
The crystal requires two capacitors to ground.
Resonators are cheaper.
For most applications with the Arduino, either one should work. Apparently about the only situation where you might have trouble is if you are doing a Real Time Clock in software. That would be like if you wanted to time something for exactly 24 hours.
I've used both without any problems.
LOG