Introduction: Lace and Cables Afghan

Picture of Lace and Cables Afghan

Materials needed:

U.S. size 7 (4.5cm) 29” circular needle and a tapestry needle

Medium weight (4) worsted or Aran yarn; I used 9 skeins (251 yds. per skein) of Lion Brand Heartland in Redwood for this afghan.)

I didn’t worry about gauge, but it works out to about 5-6 stitches and 6 rows per inch. My afghan ended up about 44” inches wide and about 66” inches long. It’s so soft and stretchy it’s hard to measure. It worked out to about 7”+ per skein.

I adapted this pattern from a “Lace and Cables Table Runner” I saw on Pinterest. I loved the texture, but changed the pattern a bit to include some new motifs and some of my favorites. The original pattern called for placing markers which I opted not to do; if you need markers, by all means use them. After a while the pattern becomes so obvious I didn’t need markers or the instructions.

Abbreviations Used in Pattern:

k = knit

p = purl

k2tog = knit 2 sts together

psso = pass slipped stitch over

tbl = through the back loop

sl 1 = slip one st purlwise

LT = insert the right-hand needle into the back of the second stitch on the left-hand needle, wrap the yarn and knit that stitch, then insert the needle into the back of the first stitch, wrap the yarn and knit that stitch, then be sure both stitches are slipped onto the right-hand needle. (You may prefer to start by inserting the right-hand needle into the next two stitches from the right side, then with the left needle pick those two stitches up from the right side. The two stitches should be twisted with the top stitch crossing to your left. Then just knit the two stitches.)

RT = insert the right-hand needle into the front of the second stitch on the left-hand needle, wrap the yarn and knit that stitch, then insert the needle into the front of the first stitch, wrap the yarn and knit that stitch, then be sure both stitches are slipped onto the right-hand needle. (You may prefer to start by inserting the right-hand needle into the next two stitches from the left side, then with the left needle pick those two stitches up from the left side. The two stitches should be twisted with the top stitch crossing to your right. Then just knit the two stitches.)

I chose to use a simple garter stitch border all around the afghan because I do not like rolled edges, and even though I like the look of the seed stitch, I think it’s not as soft as the garter stitch and it takes longer because every other stitch is knit then purl. I started with a 7-row border with 5 stitches on either side done in garter stitch the entire length. I ended with 7 rows of garter stitch before the finishing bind off. I also started each row with a slip stitch because it creates a neater edge than knitting the first stitch.

This pattern is very adaptable. You could use one pattern repeat – 55 stitches plus a MC and a border – and end up with a table runner or a scarf. You could use two repeats – 110 stitches plus a MC and a border – and end up with a shawl or wrap. If you choose to use three repeats – 165 stitches plus a MC and a border – and only knit for roughly 36” you’d end up with a baby blanket. I estimate you’d need maybe 2 – 3 skeins of yarn for a table runner/scarf. 4 – 5 skeins for a shawl/wrap. Maybe 3 skeins for a baby blanket. Including cast on and cast off stitches, there are approximately 100,497 stitches in the afghan I made.

Sorry I don’t have video; I don’t own a Go-Pro and my technique is not video-worthy!!

Step 1: Mock Cable Motif

Picture of Mock Cable Motif

The first motif is called a “Mock Cable” or “MC.” It’s worked over 7 stitches, with a 4-row pattern repeat.

Row 1: p2, sl 1 purlwise, k2, psso, p2

Row 2: k 2, p1, yo, p1, k2

Row 3: p2, k3, p2

Row 4: k2, p3, k2

I like this stitch because it creates a small “cable” without having to use a cable needle.

When slipping a stitch purlwise just remember to insert the right-hand needle into the right side of the stitch and just slide it onto the right-hand needle. Make sure the yarn is in back because the next two stitches are knit and then the slipped stitch is pulled over those two stitches – making for a little cable.

Step 2: Small Fan Motif

Picture of Small Fan Motif

I call this motif the “Small Fan” or “SF.” It’s worked over 9 stitches with a 4-row pattern repeat.

Row 1: p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, p1

Row 2: k1, p7, k1

Row 3: p1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, p1

Row 4: k1, p7, k1

When knitting “k2tog tbl” slip the right-hand needle into the back loops of the next two stitches on the left-hand needle and knit them together – not nearly as complicated as it sounds.

Step 3: Twist Cable Motif

Picture of Twist Cable Motif

I call this motif the “Twist Cable” ot “TC,” because it includes the left twists and right twists described in the abbreviations mentioned earlier. It’s worked over 8 stitches with a 4-row pattern repeat.

Row 1: LT, p1, k2, p1, RT

Row 2: p2, k1, p2, k1, p2

Row 3: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2

Row 4: p2, k1, p2, k1, p2

For details on knitting the twists see the guidelines in the "abbreviations used" section mentioned earlier.

Step 4: Large Fan Motif

Picture of Large Fan Motif

I call this motif the “Large Fan” or “LF.” It’s worked over 15 stitches with an 8-row pattern repeat.

Row 1: p1, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, p1, yo, k1, k2tog tbl, k3, p1

Row 2: k1, p6, k1, p6, k1

Row 3: p1, k2, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k1, k2tog tbl, k2, p1

Row 4: k1, p6, k1, p6, k1

Row 5: p1, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k1, k2tog tbl, k1, p1

Row 6: k1, p6, k1, p6, k1

Row 7: p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k1, k2tog tbl, p1

Row 8: k1, p6, k1, p6, k1

When doing the first “yo” in row 1, you will have the yarn in front to purl the next stitch, so remember to wrap the yarn over the needle to the back so it ends up in front for the purl.

Step 5: One Complete Repeat

Picture of One Complete Repeat

Here’s a picture of the lower right corner of my afghan. It shows one complete repeat of all the motifs used here:

From left to right –

1. Mock Cable (MC)

2. Small fan (SF)

3. Twist Cable (TC)

4. Large Fan (LF)

5. Twist Cable (TC)

6. Small Fan (SF)

7. Mock Cable (MC)

Right-hand border in garter stitch over 5 stitches.

Step 6: Instructions

Picture of Instructions

· Cast on 241 stitches.

· Knit 7 rows of garter stitch (all knit).

· Begin and end each row with 5 stitches in garter stitch, beginning each row with sl1 for a neater edge.

· Repeat 55 pattern stitches 4 times for each row ending with 6 stitches of “mock cable” before garter stitch border.

· Work until you run out of yarn – ending with Row 1 to complete all cables and twists BEFORE knitting the finish border.

Legend:

MC = 7 – Mock Cable

SF = 9 – Small Fan

TC = 8 – Twist Cable

LF = 15 – Large Fan

The chart only shows the patterns for the motifs used. Please remember to start with the 5-stitch border on each row and end with the appropriate row of Mock Cable, ending with the 5-stitch border. This should equal 5 stitches for the border, 55 stitches times 4 (220 stitches total) plus 7 stitches of Mock Cable (depending on which row you’re on) and 5 stitches for the ending border.

Step 7: Addendum & PDF

Personally, I prefer working from the table/chart I included vs. a regular pattern, because a pattern would look like this:

Cast on 241 stitches. Knit 7 rows in garter stitch for beginning border.

Row 1: Slip first st, k4, *p2, sl 1 purlwise, k2, psso, p2, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, p1, LT, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, p1, yo, k1, k2tog tbl, k3, p1, LT, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, p1,* repeat *,* 3 times, p2, sl 1 purlwise, k2, psso, p2, k5.

Row 2: Slip first st, k4, *k2, p1, yo, p1, k2, k1, p7, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p7, k1,* repeat *,* 3 times, k 2, p1, yo, p1, k2, k5.

Row 3: Slip first st, k4, *p2, k3, p2, p1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k1, k2tog tbl, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, p1,* repeat *,* 3 times, p2, k3, p2, k5.

Row 4: Slip first st, k4, *k2, p3, k2, k1, p7, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p7, k1,* repeat *,* 3 times, k2, p3, k2, k5.

Row 5: Slip first st, k4, *p2, sl 1 purlwise, k2, psso, p2, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, p1, LT, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k1, k2tog tbl, k1, p1, LT, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, p1,* repeat *,* 3 times, p2, sl 1 purlwise, k2, psso, p2, k5.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Slip first st, k4, *p2, k3, p2, p1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k1, k2tog tbl, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, p1,* repeat *,* 3 times, k2, p3, k2, k5.

Row 8: Repeat row 4.

Repeat these 8 rows until you achieve a piece roughly 1” shorter than you desire.

Repeat row 1, then knit 7 rows in garter stitch for ending border. Bind off and weave in ends.

FYI, I only had two ends to weave in because I used a Russian join when starting a new skein.

I don’t know about you, but the chart is a whole lot easier to work with than the written pattern.

Every row follows this scheme:

Sl1, K4, MC, SF, TC, LF, TC, SF, MC, SF, TC, LF, TC, SF, MC, SF, TC, LF, TC, SF, MC, SF, TC, LF, TC, SF, MC, K5.

Enjoy!

Comments

Swansong (author)2016-12-13

Oooh, I love this patter! It's beautiful :)

jeanneambro (author)Swansong2016-12-13

Thank you very much. I had fun putting it together.

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Bio: I'm always looking for new ways to make things or new things to make. Pretty much I just like being creative - working with power ... More »
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