Laminated Celtic Knot Wooden Ring





Introduction: Laminated Celtic Knot Wooden Ring

In this instructable I am going to show you how I made a wooden ring with a Celtic knot all the way through. The ring pictured was using scrap material that my friends at Damcaster by Georgia Quarter send me from their guitar making process. It is scrap from the necks and accents on their great custom guitars and the scrap is the perfect size for me to make rings, earrings, pendants and knife scales. The wood is also great as it is super stable and has great color and figure. The ring pictured is using some curly rock maple (the light color) and some dark roasted rock maple (the dark color).

I didn't document the process I used to make the ring so in this instructable I will be making a shot glass out of walnut and maple instead. The process is exactly the same and the cuts just need to be scaled down to the width of the knot that you want.

Sound interesting? Well if so lets get started.

Step 1: Tools and Material


  1. A block of wood as the blank and main body of the ring. (best is approx 1.5" x 1.5" x 6" or more)
  2. A block of wood that contrasts nicely with the main body (this is the knot). You can alternatively buy some veneer and save time and effort and have almost certainly cleaner lines (this is my suggestion).
  3. Wood glue or CA glue (super glue). CA glue makes the process go much faster and works well.
  4. Boiled Linseed Oil (this is optional and is part of the finish you can use something else if you prefer like wipe on poly)
  5. CA glue (also known as super glue) (Again this is a finish and if you prefer a different finish go for it).
  6. Cheap paper towels (for wiping up glue and applying finish).


  1. Ruler and or square (for marking your lines to cut)
  2. Pencil (for marking of course)
  3. Saw (I used a band saw but you can a hand miter saw or even a circular saw more on this later)
  4. Clamps (when using CA you can even get away without this)
  5. Dremel (again optional depending on the tools you have on hand but you can do the whole ring with just the dremel)
  6. Lathe (again completely optional I started making all my rings by hand with a dremel)
  7. Drill Press (I don't own one or even a hand drill if you can imagine but this is one way to get your original hole)
  8. Turning tools (if you are using a lathe)
  9. A way to mount your work if you are using a lathe. Options are a specialty ring mandrel, a chuck with needle or spigot jaws or use a 60 degree live center and jam chuck to the faceplate. This is really all outside the scope of this instructable and is presented only as options for you.

Step 2: Making Your Blank

The first thing we need to do is to make the blank. While this may seem like some fancy hard to accomplish task it is really a lot easier than you might think. What we are doing is just making "X"'s on two faces of the blank. When the wood is rounded the x's will appear to be curved lines and form the knot. Pretty cool right?

So what are we doing?

  1. Mark your main blank with 2 lines being the width of the band you want and do this on 2 faces.
  2. Now draw an "x" on each face going from the edge of the blank to the other edge of the blank (see above if this and the previous step seem confusing).
  3. (If you bought veneer skip this step). Mark out on your contrasting block lines that are the width you want the contrasting wood knot to be (keep it thin).
  4. (again if you bought veneer you can skip this) cut your contrasting block into the strips you marked out.
  5. Cut your strips to approx the width of your main blank (do this with veneer) and a bit longer than the length of the angle on your x's marked on the blank. (see above)
  6. Now cut your blank on one of the "x" lines. You can cut all the way through or not depends on if you can fit the strips into the kerf of your cut. Cutting all the way through means you need to be more careful with your glue up but it also means you can ensure the glue is evenly applied. Your call on which you choose to do.
  7. Glue in your first strip (see above)
  8. Let the glue set (this is where CA is a lot faster than wood glue)
  9. Trim off excess wood strip
  10. Repeat steps 6-9 for each line "X" line.
  11. You should end up with a blank that looks like the photo above. Please note that while the blank may appear to have wood on the "bands" we used as a guide for width there is no cut there it is just from the strips on the other face. You will only be making a total of 4 cuts.

So we have a blank what the heck do we do with it? Well on to the next step.

Step 3: Making It a Ring (or Shot Glass)

So as mentioned I didn't photograph making the ring so I am using a shot glass. Again there is no fundamental difference in them. If you look at the picture above you will see how the pattern emerges when rounded.

So we want to make a ring now right? Well you can obviously use a lathe as is pictured above with the shot glass. This instructable isn't a tutorial on using a lathe so if you have one and know how to use it then great you don't need me to explain how right? Good.

For the rest of you I am guessing you don't have a lathe, aren't gonna go out and buy one for this project so here is how I do it by hand.

  1. Cut your blank down to its width (on either side of the band containing the x's)
  2. Find the center of your blank (this should be square so draw a x going from corner to corner of the blank the intersection is center)
  3. Drill a hole (drill press, hand drill or like me a dremel cutting tool)
  4. Begin widening the hole until you can fit a dremel drum sander bit in there and make a nice clean circle. Be aware of the ring size at this point. You can use a mandrel to measure or if its for you til it slips on your finger nice.
  5. Now that you have the inside done cut the corners off the blank to help round it if there is plenty of material there (depends on the size blank you started with)
  6. Now use the dremel to round with a drum sander (you could use some other sander etc your call just get the outside nice and round matching the inside)
  7. Leave a bit of material on the inside and outside to remove as you will want to hand sand it with some finer grit paper to finish.

Alternatively you could use a drill press and a fostner bit for the inside and a coring bit or the like for the outside then the dremel for fine tuning the size.

Step 4: Finishing

For finishing you can use whatever you like but I have found that for flat rings I really prefer using Boiled Linseed Oil and CA glue (super glue). This process can be a bit tricky and you can really mess it up and have to sand it all off and start over. If you are worried about that wipe on poly works great too it just takes longer to apply multiple coats and isn't as strong as the CA finish is.

For a CA finish do the inside and outside seperately. It also helps if you have a mandrel of some sort you can put the ring on and spin it slowly (like a drill or something). That isn't required but it helps. DO NOT TOUCH YOUR FINGERS TO THE GLUE. The reason isn't about hurting yourself it is the moisture on your fingers will turn the glue white and or crystalize it requiring you to sand it all off and start over. Also do not blow on it. Anyway.... what you want to do is fold up your paper towel put your boiled linseed oil on it and wipe it on well but not wet and sloppy drying any excess with another part of the paper towel. Next in the spot you applied the linseed to the towel put a few drops of the CA there and wipe it on the ring all the way around quickly, firmly and evenly. Don't take more than 6-8 seconds as you don't want the towel to stick or you guessed it you will be sanding it off and starting over. Repeat that process linseed, then ca for 3-5 coats (based on your preference more looks more plastic like). I like to finish with the dremel and a buffing wheel.

Anyway hope you liked this and if so please throw me a vote.

Also check me out on Pintrest

Or my Etsy store Xavier Xanders Creations

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37 Discussions

jason.burr.946, I wrote to you when I saw this instructable in another contest and your skill in fine wood working is great. Again you make it look easy laminating and layering your woods to get an awesome effect. Great instructable and good luck in the jewelry contest.

1 reply

Thanks again warrior glad you liked it and really hope you get some use out of it. ;)

jason.burr.946, nice work. Your right that it looks harder than what your instruction explain. Good job.

3 replies

Thank you. I am glad you liked it and hope you get some use out of it. At shows people always pick them up and puzzle as to how you do it lol. I made this instructable after posting a ring in a turners group and got a ton of questions about it.

Thanks really got my fingers crossed I can manage that foredom as my dremel brushes blew out again and I could really use it for my work.

So pretty! Pairs of these would sell like hot-cakes at Highland Games throughout the US.

3 replies

Thanks Hazel that's a good idea. Wonder if they have gotten as outrageous with vendors fees as our Ren Fest down here has. Unfortunately we don't have any highland games down here in South Florida (that I am aware of at least and that seems something I would know about)

I don't know about vendors fees... I've only ever performed at them. But your stuff is much better quality than some stuff I saw for sale at them. Isn't there a Highland Games in Mid-Northern Florida? Or am I just imagining that? Good luck anyway.
Ren-fests are good too... but I've only been a visitor.

Thanks for the compliment I try to do my best nice when people recognize that. Not sure about the one in North Florida. I will have to look into that (though I am in South Florida). The ren-fest here was $1.2k to be a vendor plus 1M in liability insurance etc. So it was really way to much. Sad it has gotten so commercialized. Wish I was more plugged into shows. I have only done 2 so far and did well at them and actually enjoyed myself. Would like to find some small boutique stores to carry my wares too but have found that equally difficult. I am going to start selling at a local store that sells only local artists and donates to battered women so happy about that development.

The process is described very well. I like the CA glue finish definitely going to try it. Thank you for sharing. Ernie

1 reply

Thanks glad you liked it. The boiled linseed oil helps too to give it shine and keep the glue from streaking.

Thanks Ronald. Yea I am really fond of the form myself. I do a lot of hand carved celtic knots too as well as some pyro and inlay. Posting some examples. Have lots more examples but don't want to overwhelm lol. Really hoping I manage to win the jewelry contest to win that foredom as my dremel with a flex shaft just died on me today lol. (fingers crossed). If you do make please don't forget to come back and post the "I made it" and let me see how it came out.


I never would have thought of using CA glue as a finish. I do like the simplicity of the work, and the great way it looks at the end. I may be playing with some variations of this. I bought a small HF lathe, and have yet to use it for anything. Now I am inspired to put it to use :)

1 reply

Glad I inspired you. I assume it is the HF 10x18? If so that is a great little lathe (I own one myself). CA is a pretty typical finish for wood turners on small projects such as pens, razors, bottlestoppers etc. It is durable, helps stabilize the wood and makes a nice clear finish. If you make one please don't forget to come back and let me know and post it with the "I made this". Always love to see what people come up with.

Very straight forward explanation. I am a woodworker so it makes perfect sense to me. I have all the tools so I will just go try this. Great Idea.

1 reply

Thanks Jay glad you found it useful. Please post it if you make it and do the "I made it" thing here ;)