My sister and I headed down to heatsync labs in Mesa, AZ this morning to try out the laser cutter on some t-shirts!

(By the way?  Do you think this is cool?  Do you think huge LASERS are cool?  Check out this contest that instructables is running right now: http://www.instructables.com/contest/hurricanelasers/  -- Grand prize is a laser exactly like the one we used on this project!  My favorite machine in the lab!  <3  Enter that contest!)

The effect is really cool, like a lace, except part of the shirt itself.  We found that a 5% polyester/95% cotton blend worked best.  The polyester seems to melt at the edges of the cuts, sealing them against fraying.

Cotton works as well, but care has to be taken not to fray the edges of the cuts.

See: lace.dxf if you want to cut one of these for yourself!

Step 1: Gather your materials

As usual, first gather up all of your materials.  For this we're using a 5% polyester/95% cotton blend t-shirt.

We also grabbed a piece of cardboard out of the scrap heap to keep the shirt rigid while we cut it.
<p>Thanks for including the pattern! Making one tomorrow.</p>
<p>Let me know how it goes!</p>
<p>this is really cool! I pinned it for my ideas board to try when I get my GlowForge laser cutter, soooo excited!</p><p>If you haven't heard of it, check it out, it's a desktop laser cutter currently available for pre-order at a super affordable price, $2400 for the basic model. It just completed it's 30 day launch where it hit over $27 million in sales, making it the most funded crowdfunding project ever! You can get $100 off if you order one with this link </p><p>http://glowforge.com/referred/?kid=mkEgpH</p>
<p>I have just the shirt for this projec<em>t</em>! Expect an &quot;I Made It&quot; soon!</p>
<p>An old thread... but perhaps someone might have a response for me. I'm trying to lasercut in silk, wool, linen and cotton... and it often seems that we're burning the material too much or smoke-damaging it. (without seeing smoke). Design looks clear when I take it from the laser bed.. then I rinse the burn smell and singe out... and it shrivels up like camo-netting. (It's an intricate design.) We just spent some time to get our settings right on small pieces (30 sec cut time)... and I rinsed them afterward and they were perfect. Then I moved on to larger pieces (15 min cut time) ... didn't rinse right away and * sigh * they are all shriveling up again and the fabric is degraded. I'm working in wool at speeds of 200 and power 20%/70% and in silk at 100 and power 80. The silk is not cauterizing. ... Anyone had issues with thin fabrics? Or has it been easy-peasy for You? Thx, CK</p>
Hello, maybe you are still using too much power. Perhaps try to set it at 30%/50% and adjust the speed. You might allso try increesing OR taking away the airflow...
Hey I'm a product design student and I'm doing a project of which I'm looking into designing a clothing laser cutter for consumer use in homes for the next 5 years time . <br>I'm wondering if you have any tips or advice that you might have. <br>from using it is there any aspects of the process that would benefit being made easier for use.<br>Thank you,<br>Kelly<br> moore_kellyann@yahoo.co.uk
<p>Not sure how you could make it easier. This was REALLY easy! Maybe some pre-cut forms of cardboard backing?</p>
<p>Thank you for replying back to me,</p><p>I just have a few questions</p><p>does the laser cut deep into the cardboard?</p><p>what software did you use to design the pattern to be cut out?</p>
Seems like you could also adjust the image to avoid the top of the shirt. Of course that will require some registration but almost everything on a laser etcher does...
Hi very nice job, compliments. <br>Would you contact me at lori.venturi@gmail.com <br>I need to make some object with laser cut and want to have an estimation <br>thanks <br>Loredana
with the pieces that are cutout, you could apply them to other 't shirts' in a free form design, one could use iron on adhesive tape to iron on a design from the cutouts.. <br> <br>hope this make sense,, <br> <br>trying to get as much use from the laser as possible, the cutouts will also have their ends melted.. <br> <br> <br>you guys made a fantastic 't'
That *does* make sense and sounds really cool :)
Oh, that's gorgeous! Makes me want to go laser cut some clothing!
DO IT! :-D <br> <br>I guess lasering on cloth is actually really common in production. You can stack many layers of cloth on top of each other, then laser cut them instead of using shears.
I've done that before with great success! Want to make several of one pattern? Check, done, perfect. It's awesome.
I particularly like this idea because I love sewing but HATE cutting patterns... Sadly I'll have to stick to relatively small patterns for now, as the cutter I have access to only has a 12&quot; x 24&quot; bed, but I do see several murloc hats in my immediate future.
Did you go laser cut anything!?
Noooooooo. But soon! SOON! I have spent far too much time typing lately, I think I am going to remedy that next week. :D
There is a really great product that we sewers use called Fray Check. It will seal the edges of any material. You can buy it at any Jo-Ann's. If your local Wal-Mart has a fabric section (many sadly don't) then you can probably find it there as well. <br> <br>Beautiful project!
Thanks Holly! Yeah, we were talking about using some different sorts of adhesive on the 100% cotton shirts. We'll have to try that. Another person suggested something called Stich Witchery.
Stitch Witchery or any other heat fuseable fabric interfacing would probably be perfect as long as the laser doesn't wind up vaporizing it too. on another note you might try making or buying a cardboard t-shirt form, that way when it was set in the laser cutter you would have a basic idea of where the collar was and set your layout accordingly.
This is way cool!
Wonderful project! <br> <br>To keep the Cotton from raveling would take something like Fray-Chek, a liquid that fuses the edge. Try not to use too much as it can show. Alternatively, you can outline the cuts with 3D fabric paint, which will also effectively seal the edge. <br> <br>Denim: The traditional pigment for Denim is indigo-based and only lays on top of the fiber rather than soaking INTO the fiber like most dyes - this is the reason for the lovely fade you get on denim in all the wear spots because the dye is literally rubbed off the fabric. When you blast it with the laser just right you remove the dye molecules and leave the cotton (or most of it), which leaves the fabric 'tattoo'. <br> <br>Besides the T-shirt fabrics, most quality silks will fuse when laser cut, you can remove the pile from velvet but leave the background fabric, and you can do the same with polyester Moleskin and many faux suedes.
I think we're going to try denim this weekend :-D
Here's the Moleskin test panel we did a while back...<br> <br> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/dhawktx/4045062595/in/set-72157623905104905/" rel="nofollow">http://www.flickr.com/photos/dhawktx/4045062595/in/set-72157623905104905/</a><br> <br> and the same design on a soft leather (really too soft, it drew up in places due to the heat of the laser)<br> <br> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/dhawktx/4045062595/in/set-72157623905104905/" rel="nofollow">http://www.flickr.com/photos/dhawktx/4045062595/in/set-72157623905104905/</a>
You are close... lower the power of the laser to about 60% or 80% and slow down your engraving speed as well. You can get very clear engravings... but you need a slower setting at less power to avoid too much heat. Sometimes it takes two passes... but you can do it. <br> <br>I had not thought of velvet before... nice idea... it should work... I'll have to try that! <br> <br>Thanks for the tip! <br> <br>Jerry
Wow! Great! I'm brand new at this, and though I understand the laser part (enough to go dig up a laser cutting company!), can you tell me a little about developing and printing (or whatever) the actual master design that will be cut?
Kudos for mentioning HeatSync labs!
Great idea, like your design. For some reason I cannot save the dxf file. <br> <br>
Nice. I'd be interested in seeing a photo after it was washed though. That would answer the &quot;will it fray&quot; question.
The t-shirt shouldn't unravel where it's cut because it's knit, not woven. <br />Rad design, I love it!
So cool! Thank you for sharing this knowledge about the lasers! It was specifically useful for me to know about the polyester melting, I might use it in a project one day :) Thank you!
thats so cool. i will give it a bash, as I am thinking of making corporate clothing for myself. Also want to try engraving denim.
Well done! I really like how it turned out. Thanks for sharing. ;-)
Thank you! I'm glad you liked it! :)
What type of laser and settings did you use? I know they may not translate to our laser but it helps to have a starting point. <br> <br>We did a t-shirt during a laser class/experiment last year. I dont know the material but we put the t on a sheet of melamine board and cut w/75%speed 40% power 1200Hz on an 40watt Epilog Helix. Results were pretty good ... <br>http://www.flickr.com/photos/mauimakers/6044894766/in/set-72157627312292063/ <br> <br>Source diagram for that shirt was Garrett Lisi's E8 Theory of Everything (http://garrettlisi.com/)
Oh la la! I really like that design a LOT! <br> <br>Our is an &quot;XYZ Technology&quot; &quot;Exlas&quot; or something like that. It's a commonly re-branded machine out of China. <br> <br>It's an 80watt tube, and I cut it at 16watts, meaning 20% power. If you have a 40watt, that would be 40% power.

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