Step 3:

First, you place your piece in the far left corner.  You insert a tool for focusing the laser as seen in the picture.
<p>I am curious, are you actually burning through the anodize surface? If that is the case, this would expose virgin aluminum surface underneath, hence potentially causing corrosion across the logo. You can imagine where I am going with this, but is that a concern (exposing aluminum that could corrode) if you made the etching large enough. That is a great result, btw! Very impressed</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>I'm looking for a laser machine like this for my shop.</p><p>How much did this cost?</p>
depending on the size of the machine you can spend anywhere from 20-30 thousand on a Epilog laser
Great looking faceplate! <br> <br> That's a really nice one techshopdude! <br>Could you throw some (or a lot of!) light on your amplifier design and construction? <br>I love DIY audio, because I've been able to make some equipment that puts to shame some store bought onesmany times as expensive... :) <br> <br>I'm in the process of multi-amplifying my setup, using 24dB/Oct electronic active Crossovers, in order to have a lot of flexibility when trying several different drivers, since one could easily match sensitivities and crossover frequencies/slopes etc. <br>Cheers. Amclaussen, Mexico City.
Sounds like you are into very advanced stuff!<br><br>I used the the classic 3 stage class AB amplifier design you see in books like Douglas Self's &quot;Audio Power Amplifier Design Handbook&quot;. <br><br>The heat sinks are from Conrad Heat Sinks in Australia. The case was from a supplier in the US named Par-Metal. Switch from Lamptron. Back connectors bought on ebay. Toroidal transformer from Plitron in Canada.<br><br>Too much to describe to make an Instructable though maybe I'll try it piece by piece.<br><br>techshopdude<br>
Yay, another TechShop member, we will eventually take over the world, one nifty project after another!

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